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Re: Does your Makerfarm Z axis move up slightly? - 12 years ago
My bed was hitting the front end, but not at first. Each day it got worse until the y axis couldn't hit the end. So just do a visual inspection. My workspace is very flat, and I noticed eventually that even moving it one inch messed it up, now it is sitting on a piece of aircraft aluminum plate. I put locktite on my Z axis end stop screw, and it doesn't move in the wood.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Calibrating the Z steps seems confusing to me. I am going to have to spend some time figuring that out, and try those other suggestions. But actually, if you saw my last post, the 50mm tower came out 45mm. But the 3mm box came out taller. But that was 2 different color plastics also. Would the nozzle diameter thing we were talking about before have anything to do with it? Being that I have a .4mby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Question, when printing the 3mm calibration object, it is coming out taller than 3mm. About .17mm. Using Cura, what should I adjust to correct this? The difference was bigger changing from from .3mm layer height to .1mm, then the difference was .3mmby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Does your Makerfarm Z axis move up slightly? - 12 years ago
Check 3 things: 1, that the nuts are all the way in their sockets on the Z axis carriers. Try not to lift them out once they are in. 2. Make sure your bed is not warping like mine did. 3. Make sure you have your machine on a perfectly flag and level surface. Do not move it once you calibrate. Check your bed level calibration each day before printing.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Stabalised camera gimbal for drone. - 12 years ago
QuoteJasper1984 Does it do stuff with the motors to avoid vibration or does the frame somehow do that, or does the copter really not vibrate much? I think the first of those? If so how are those motors controlled? To answer your question directly, a gimbal keeps the camera in what ever position you point it, regardless of copter position. It does that with a controller involving gyros and acceleby Antslake - Look what I made!
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
I figured I would have to extrude a straight piece, so I had lifted up the Z axis and extrude a straight piece without pulling on it too much. When I changed the setting to .6 in slicr, and printed the 50mm test object the head was dragging through the tower, and eventually went off making the tower into steps. But I did notice that now the layer are sticking together very strong. So as an experby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Ahhhhhh....ok Ok, I just measured the extruded piece, it was .024" or .6mm. That's way off from the .4mm it's supposed to be.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Good tip, I will try it. I did make a bed out of thin gauge aluminum I had lying around in my shop. Going to test it now. Back to the extrude button. Mine is set at 5mm@30mm min. When I hit extrude, it pumps out plastic for 8 seconds and is around 160mm, sort of confused since my prints are coming out pretty good except for bonding of the layers. you would think with that much being off that myby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Ah ok. Came to halt last night as I realized the bed is warping. So it is hitting the front support on the y axis and cannot travel all the way. Colin is shipping me a new one. I might make one out of aluminum. This was my biggest fear having a wood kit.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Going through the calibration steps, I don't really understand extruder steps. Something about G92? I am guessing we want to send a signal to extrude (maybe the one in pronterface) and then measure that length? But I don't know what length it should be.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
I tried that fan shroud out, and my head kept getting jammed. I don't think it was doing a very efficient job at directing the air flow. I say that with authority because I've been in the HVAC business for 35 years, and design duct work. I played with heat settings but no luck. It prints fine without it. Just having trouble with layers sticking together, or maybe this is how they are supposed toby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
How's this for overhang?by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Yea was just looking for a place to start, or compare with what I got. I think it is printing pretty well now, but there is still "drool" coming out of the head when it goes from one location to another without printing. What should I adjust to correct that? Is there a test object for calibrating retraction? Something else I noticed if anyone is thinking of buying this machine. You absolutely muby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Anyone want to share their ABS settings for Cura?by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
I guess I described that wrong. It wasn't slumping. After the print was done, it was very brittle, and would separate easily.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Oh man, thanks. I will give that a try. I am using clear ABS, and using the config file from makerfarm. The sides of the rose had trouble sticking together also. Each pedal is only one pass thick. That's got to be tough to print. Any movement at all in the pedal and the next layer is going to miss. I think it was the dripping that caused the layers to start to get messed up.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Well the Rose didn't make it to the end. My head seems to drip a little too much. I guess I up the retraction in slicr? It's at 1mm now. Slicr also said it had a hole in it, but It messed up in a few places. Got over 50% through it though. I think that was a pretty tough print?by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
I added LED lighting from my airplanes, looks so cool all lit up. The first box I printed had some "bubbling" on 2 sides, other than that it came out pretty good. Then I printed an earring for my wife, and that was ok. I was having trouble with the Z end switch "losing" it's place only to realize that I forgot to tighten down some bolts on the Z carraige from working on it so many times. Fixed tby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
She's printing now, looks ok.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
I spoke with Colin about it. It seems I had the temp too high. So it was getting jammed further up from the head. I was using the stock settings in slicr instead of the config file from makerfarm. So I just took it all apart and got the stuck filament out by heating the head with the current to 225, and then a small torch on the heat sink and everything pushed right out. It seems to be extrudingby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
I'll try the cork. My power supply is already 13.5. I measured the voltage under full load and it is handling it very well. I get to 109C right away, but then the last few degrees it had problems a few times. I also had to change the #define MAXTEMP (or MAX_TEMP_) in the config.h to 250, because it was on 235, the start temp for ABS.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Got it. My caps were missing, as was the knob for the LCD panel. Gonna move the wires when I feel ambitious. I have them routed under, but out of the work area now. I tried some prints last night, but the head kept jamming, and the plastic wouldn't go through. I tried all the suggestions in the troubleshooting guide. It is 62F in my basement. I tried putting an electric heater blowing on it too.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Oh yea, how long does it usually take for the bed to heat up?by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Ok, I got some filament I bought Orange, clear, silver. ABS. I will move the wires, gonna be tough since I have to take a lot apart to get them around. The screws were pre-calibration. The bed is leveled now. I set the end switch in the corner that doesn't have the spring, then worked my way around the bed until a piece of paper felt snug under the extruder no matter where I put it. I don't haveby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Well it's assembled, time to figure out how to use it. Feel like a kid at Christmas.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Just unboxed my makerfarm kit. Click your stop watches......GOby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
That's a pretty good deal. One thing I noticed is no LCD screen or SD card reader. That could make up the difference in the price maybe? 6mm acrylic sounds a little flimsy to me, but maybe not.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
When I selected the magma tip, it automatically gives you the hot end, when ordering the whole kit.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Quoteuncle_bob A solid 20A supply is a much better option than any PC power supply. You want a supply that will put out >= 20 A and not drop out of regulation. In order for a 650W PC power supply to put out 54 amps, it would need to be able to do it all on the 12V rail(s). That's never the case with a PC supply. They ration the power between the various outputs. You might get 20A at +12 andby Antslake - General Mendel Topics
Re: Thinking of buying a Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
The one I have is a Pyramid 20amp 12V supply. I used it on my ham equipment for many years. Is that not good enough? Or what about the better ATX power supplies like 650watt and greater versions? These are pretty serious power supplies with clean voltage. 650Watt power supply can deliver 54 amps.by Antslake - General Mendel Topics