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Safety...
Quoteanimoose
Quotefoul_owl
QuoteMach
Quotefoul_owl
Any pictures or info on routing the heated bed and y axis motor wiring?
Thanks!
The heated bed wires go to the D8 terminals, and the Y motor wires go to the top middle motor pins.
Thanks, but I'm interesting in routing the wires. ie, preventing them from hanging loose. Right now I have a loose arc going from the bed up to the ramps board, but
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach
Quotefoul_owl
Any pictures or info on routing the heated bed and y axis motor wiring?
Thanks!
The heated bed wires go to the D8 terminals, and the Y motor wires go to the top middle motor pins.
Thanks, but I'm interesting in routing the wires. ie, preventing them from hanging loose. Right now I have a loose arc going from the bed up to the ramps board, but I can see that getting caug
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
Any pictures or info on routing the heated bed and y axis motor wiring?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hmm I tried simply switching to 3 point autoleveling and that caused the print head to crash into my bed. Alrighty.
by
foul_owl
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General
The offset has been carefully tuned, and things do work sometimes. It just looks like autoleveling is not working properly sometimes. One corner is fine, the others are not:
So is there a bug in the 4 point Marlin autoleveling procedure?
by
foul_owl
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General
Hi folks. Prusa i3. Seeing this sometimes:
I have autoleveling enabled. It's calibrated. The bed is nearly level anyway. I did the z probe repeatability test and I'm getting 30 microns stdev all over the bed.
I also upgraded my servo from a plastic gear to a metal geared one, didn't seem to make too much difference.
Has anyone seen this before? Looks like a bug in the autoleveling firmware
by
foul_owl
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General
QuoteMach
Quotefoul_owl
QuoteMach
Quotefoul_owl
Does anyone use this printer with 3mm filament and an e3dv6?
This printer looks great but I'm already locked into 3mm due to having other printers using it and having a 3mm filastruder.
If I could buy this kit with a standard greg's hinged accessible extruder I would be sold!
I do not use 3mm filament, but the printer can definitely undergo the
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach
Quotefoul_owl
Does anyone use this printer with 3mm filament and an e3dv6?
This printer looks great but I'm already locked into 3mm due to having other printers using it and having a 3mm filastruder.
If I could buy this kit with a standard greg's hinged accessible extruder I would be sold!
I do not use 3mm filament, but the printer can definitely undergo the slight modification to
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone use this printer with 3mm filament and an e3dv6?
This printer looks great but I'm already locked into 3mm due to having other printers using it and having a 3mm filastruder.
If I could buy this kit with a standard greg's hinged accessible extruder I would be sold!
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
So I think complete-printer.scad is incorrect.
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
This is the one I am building:
What do you call that one? I call it "standard" since there is no other qualifier. It's certainly not "vanilla" which is here:
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
Hi folks,
I have seen plenty of build instructions for the vanilla i3, but none for the "standard" i3.
How do you attach the x tensioner to the x idler? Do you have to clip out the two support beams on the x idler?
Anyone seen a good set of build instructions for the "standard" i3?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
Hi folks,
When generating the stls from the prusa i3 repo, I noticed the x ends are the wrong handedness.
Here's how they should look, from complete-printer.scad:
Here's how they appeared in the output folder:
(and sadly, how I printed it)
Is this a bug? Anyone run into this?
Of course I probably could just use the parts and swap the sides around, but having anything non-standard like tha
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
Hi folks,
The quality of my prints have increased substantially since adding autoleveling. However, maybe one in five prints will have the following issue:
Notice the pattern on the brim.
To be clear, when bed autoleveling works, the print comes out perfect.
I have done the M48 test and I get 50 microns stdev, so looks like my servo is working correctly.
I was thinking perhaps I have run
by
foul_owl
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Printing
I also had to crank the extrusion temp up to 260C. People have been saying this is too hot, so I've been experimenting with lower temps. Ran into this issue again today once I dropped it back down to 230C.
by
foul_owl
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Printing
I took my servo apart, and sure enough, there was a broken tooth on a gear.
I swapped out the servo for the same kind since I had an extra laying around, I'll update this thread with how well that works.
Might try an all metal gear servo too.
by
foul_owl
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General
Hi folks,
I'm trying to fine tune my extrusion rate. Extrusion multiplier in slic3r would appear to do the same thing as turning up the extruder steps per unit: push more material out the hot end. Is there any functional difference?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
The option in question is
#define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300
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foul_owl
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General
Duh, there is a Marlin option for this. Sorry to waste everyone's time.
by
foul_owl
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General
Good point. I figured since high torque wasn't needed, a small, lightweight, inexpensive servo would be a good choice. Oh well.
This one looks good, it's all metal gears:
What would you recommend?
by
foul_owl
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General
Hi folks,
I use an HXT900 servo for bed autoleveling. Recently the servo has stopped moving reliably, but I gave it its own 5V power supply. (It's an ATX power supply so should supply plenty of current) Basically it moves still, but only about halfway to where it should move.
I am guessing at least one of three things happened.
1. HXT900 servo "burned out". As these are only $3 each, I'm lean
by
foul_owl
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General
Still wondering about this. Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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General
Hi folks,
I have a maddening problem. I recently updated my firmware to support bed autoleveling. The autoleveling feature was working great, when suddenly I noticed that my prints were being printed at an offset of roughly 50 units along both the X and Y axes. So normally if my print is centered at 100,100, it becomes centered at 150, 150! This didn't use to happen, it started seemly at random.
by
foul_owl
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General
I just built an external 5V supply for my servo. It works, but the servo meandering issue is still there.
Thus, this is _not_ a problem with the servo Vcc.
I opened this bug with Marlin:
Anyone else have this problem?
by
foul_owl
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General
Setting my extrusion width to 0.5 mm seems to have done the trick. Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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General
From #reprap IRC, it sounds like the servos should be able to accept a wide range of supply voltages. Thus, the suggestion was that my "meandering issue" isn't related to a sagging supply voltage.
I'm unsure either way. Thoughts?
by
foul_owl
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General
Hi folks,
I have heard that ABS outgasses for a bit after the print is completed. How long should I let the completed print sit in a ventilated room? 24 hours? Is there a way to mitigate this outgassing? The parts tend to lose the chemically smell when I wash them in water I have noticed.
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Safety & Best Practices
Y tension looks good. How do I tension the x axis? (Prusa i3) Thanks!!
by
foul_owl
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Printing