Show all posts by user
Safety...
Hi folks,
I have a set of grey metal files that I've been using to clean up parts and remove brims. However, they leave a nasty gray mark where ever they are used. Soap and water does not remove the mark. Filament is white ABS.
Anyone use anything that doesn't leave a mark? Maybe a dremel bit perhaps?
Thanks!!
by
foul_owl
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General
Quote3dkarma
I have had problems with Slic3r's default extrusion width settings. I got the same delamination problem at the same layer height using Slic3r's default extrusion width. I would suggest changing all of the extrusion width settings to 0.5mm and trying a test print, just to see what you get.
Thank you, let me try that. I have no idea what the defaults are, so I can't really try going
by
foul_owl
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General
Wow. Definitely sounds like I was trying to fix the wrong problem.
I kept looking at the guide that said "if you are having delamination problems, try increasing your temp!"
Which seemed to help until I hit 290C and suddenly thought "Woah, something really screwy is going on here".
I thought I could trust my measurement tool (IR therm) but apparently not.
My nozzle diameter is apparently 0
by
foul_owl
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General
Hi folks,
I recently bought an e3dv6. I have been getting delamination issues, even at "higher temps" (reading 280, 290, etc) so I finally decided to measure the temp of my heater block with an IR thermometer.
When my thermistor reads 290C, my IR thermometer reads 120C.
My IR thermometer shows the correct temp for the heated bed, so I'm 95% certain my IR thermometer is working well, unless it
by
foul_owl
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General
I think there might be an issue with the thermistor setting in the firmware then, since I am getting delamination even at 295C.
I set the thermistor to type to "5" in the marlin firmware as described in the documentation.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
HI folks,
I get a maxtemp error when I hit 300C, yet my firmware is limited at 350C. I have an e3dv6 so yes it can handle high temps for special kinds of filament. Marlin firmware.
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
Bed voltage measures 12.12 VDC when bed is heating.
Also, shouldn't we be able to get real time voltage monitoring on the bed, since the arduino controls the bed voltage?
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
I tried the cardboard and from a cold start it reached 120C easily.
However, after leveling the bed, the temp dropped down to 95C and wouldn't climb back up to 120C.
What do you think the issue could be there? Power supply perhaps?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
Good call, let me measure that!
Any issues with cardboard insulation catching fire? I looked up the flash point but I'm kinda sketched out by that idea.
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi folks,
My heated bed won't go above 90C. My PSU is 30 amps. Checked the voltage on it and it looks fine. I calibrated the thermistor and measured with an IR thermometer and the temp reading looks accurate. Using heated bed mk2a at 12v.
Is my PSU not high enough power?
Specifically I have this one:
I take two wires from the +12V side and two wires from the ground side of the PSU and run th
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi folks,
Printing at 230C.
First layer sticks fine. Second layer does not stick to first layer, like so:
What could be the issue? I have never even heard or seen something like this happen before.
Filament type is ABS, Chi Mei PA-747. No bubbles or dead spots on the filament. Filament has not been stored.
Thanks.
by
foul_owl
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Printing
Hi folks,
I put my single sheet Prusa i3 together from a kit and used it for a few months. I had assumed that (what appears to be) a wooden frame would be good enough, but I was wrong.
The frame itself is fine, but the heated bed mount is badly warped, so much so that it makes leveling the bed impossible.
The bed actually bulges at the middle, and is lower on the sides, much like a covex mirr
by
foul_owl
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi folks,
What's an actual panic button for Pronterface? "pause" doesn't work, "off" doesn't work, "disconnect" doesn't work, and "reset" doesn't work.
I end up having to yank the printer power when the print starts to go south.
How do I cause the print to stop instantly via software?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Printing
Ah, let me try that. Thank you!
by
foul_owl
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Printing
I tried upgrading slic3r to 1.2.6.
I also tried turning the first layer extrusion width all the way up to 400%.
Still no luck. The brim does not stick to itself, it just looks like a spiral.
What is going on here?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Printing
Unfortunately, that wasn't the issue.
It looks like _just_ the brim doesn't extrude properly.
Any ideas? Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Printing
Ah, raise the bed up a tiny tiny bit?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Printing
Anyone seen this issue before? It looks like the infill amount is not correct on the first layer only, like so:
Settings all look good in slic3r, in fact, I tried turning up the first layer extrusion width setting, but no luck.
I also consulted the pictorial diagnosis guide.
Any other ideas?
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Printing
Part of the problem might have been that the adhesive on the kapton tape failed, the thermistor came loose and my hot end melted.
I'm going with an E3Dv6 from now on, no more designs that use tape.
by
foul_owl
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General Mendel Topics
Hi folks,
I have a J Head mk V and a Prusa i3 with a Greg's extruder.
It looks like the hotend is just supposed to be a press fit, sliding into the notch on this part:
However, my hot end is super loose, and can wiggle around quite a bit, even though the actual slide area is a tight fit. I have tried tightening down the extruder on top of the hot end too, but this hasn't helped.
Is there a
by
foul_owl
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General Mendel Topics
Was a GT2 version of the Mendel90 ever built? I am curious as to the status of this project.
Nophead, out of curiosity why did you choose to go with T2.5 belts over GT2 belts given the information shown here:
Your printers are clearly very high quality, so I'm wondering if maybe the belts don't matter so much, or maybe we can improve the design even more by going with GT2.
Thanks for contribu
by
foul_owl
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Mendel90
Hi folks,
I found this bug in Obiscad:
I've been digging through the source a bit but I've been unable to figure out why this bug is cropping up. It just looks like the position of the bevel object is what is off.
Having the ability to do bevels in OpenSCAD is a pretty important feature, so it might be cool if we could fix this. Obiscad is one of the first things that comes up on google when
by
foul_owl
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OpenSCAD
$600 is a small price to pay to avoid getting cancer.
by
foul_owl
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General
No windows that open. The printer is a unenclosed prusa i3, but I am currently designing an enclosure for it.
I keep the printer in its own room with the door closed.
I definitely want a fume extractor. What's a good charcoal filter with fan + built in extraction hose?
by
foul_owl
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General
Hi folks,
Looking for an off-the-shelf fume extraction solution. I can't deal with these ABS fumes anymore. I would rather be safe than sorry.
Thanks!!
by
foul_owl
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General
There was a forum post somewhere where nophead says that the highest fire risk on the Mendel i3 is the wiring that attaches to the hot end and the heated bed. Basically after so many hours of use, the stranded wire frays and sparks/catches fire.
What is a good wire to use? How often should this wire be replaced? Would mil spec teflon coated wire help? (ie, this stuff? )
Thanks!
by
foul_owl
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Safety & Best Practices
If anyone is interested, I made some progress on this today.
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
+1 for soldering iron method.
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers
Thanks for the info. I think that is very close to what I want to make.
I do want to make one that is specifically designed for the i3, and that has a flap in the front to accommodate autoprinting.
I created this github repo for a design that uses acrylic or steel sheets and 3d printed corners:
I'll see how much progress I can make on my own. I just didn't want to be duplicating any existin
by
foul_owl
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Reprappers