Show all posts by user
Safety...
The solution appears to be obvious now.
As I noted above, when I turned down the part fan, I got better media flow and it stopped under-extruding. But I am getting a rough spot in the middle of the print. I just did a Simplify3D print of the same part, filament, settings and speeds as CURA (as much as I can match these). That print was also messed up in the exact same place.
SO...
It looks lik
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quoteobewan
In cura, open settings/profile/manage profiles select your profile and export too file.
Thanks! I didn't know that step.
DLC
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quoteobewan
can you attach your current cura pofile, so can have a butchers.
Where do I find the CURA profiles on a Windows box? I am sure I can find them if I search, but if you already know...
Thanks,
DLC
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Update:
No idea about acceleration and jerk. It is nothing that I have ever fiddled with in CURA before and I'll need to read up on just what it does.
Yes, the filament is 1.75mm in both S3D and CURA settings.
HOWEVER
I found something that is starting me on the way to a fix. This printer has a VERY effective part fan ducting system. I dropped the starting fan speed in CURA to 40%, with a
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
I gave up and bought some cheap Drylin linear bearings. They have two issues:
No hardened steel (no steel at all) so they will wear out eventually. Solution Buy a bunch and replace as needed!
These MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED or they don't work. Alignment was a pain, but oh so quiet when all was done.
DLC
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quotethequestor
I just used what was supposed to be a 100k ohm thermistor to hotend and now it is reading 83C instead of the "around" 29C that it should be reading which leads me to think they sent me 10k Ohm instead of the 100k Ohm that they should be.
My question is can I just add a resistor inline to bring it up to 100k Ohm and if so what value resistor and please don't say 1k Ohm as I ran ou
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
This may sound odd, but check to make sure that your extruder doesn't have a loose set screw in its gears. This is exactly what happened to me once, and I had the same symptoms as you.
DLC
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
QuoteAMDcats
I just finished setting up a ramps 1.4 and arduino mega setup. I was testing motors using both pronterface and Cura but whenever I would send a signal to the motor it would spin a short distance, but then it would make rythmic whines and not spin whatever I pressed. I am not sure what to do to fix this?
Typically this is a stepper/cable incompatibility. There is no standard stepper
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
I have both CURA and Simplify3D and go back and forth between them depending upon my projects. I recently completed a new delta machine of my own design and have run into a problem.
My Simplify3D profile works just fine, but I tried to create a profile in CURA that mimics these settings and it is a miserable failure. This is the first time I have had absolute failure in this process, but it is
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quoteleadinglights
I tried to resist commenting on both of these things but have failed
I have seen deckingman's printer at the TCT show and it was better made and printed better than most of the 3D printers on commercial printer stands. . Linux is the operating system used on ALL (as in every last one) of the top 200 supercomputers
Opinion on the meaning of the word "toy" may vary.
Mike
Toy is
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quotecwaa
When did RepRap become so important? I started in 3d printing 3 years ago and didn't use anything from Rep Rap. How is that possible? Well I researched 3d printing for a while and learned a lesson in rigidity. Making frames with plastic joints is not going to make a quality printer. You may be able to print, but it will be a toy needing constant calibration. So if you want to exper
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Jeese guys,
There is plenty of room in here for everyone's ideas. Let us NOT mimic external politics and say there are only two ways!
RepRap came into being as a way to bring cheap replication to the masses. _One_ of its ideals was getting printers to make printers, a great way to make printers cheap, right? Everything else is innovation. Printing metal, integrated circuits, motor components
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
RepRap is not done yet!
Hackers are continually experimenting. The open source nature of the printers makes mistakes relatively inexpensive, which should speed up experimentation and discovery. We are already printing metal, what next? Semiconductors? The whole concept is exciting.
If you want an inspirational (aspirational?) view of the RepRap "movement" read the "Bobiverse" series, "I am
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quotedutchengineer
Thanks DC42,
I red the article. It makes sense. It doesn't solve my problem however, but the recommendation using an USB isolator might be the solution. Thanks for your help.
It does sound like you have a ground issue. A USB isolator will protect your computer, but might not protect your Arduino.
Here are some things to check.
These next two are "hail Mary" shots.
Make sure th
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quoteaflactheastronaut
Yeah, I'll be keeping a closer eye on my rails from now on.
Also, how close of a fit is the V6 hotend? I was looking into other effectors because I thought the stock one couldn't hold a V6.
Thanks,
Alex
I have a custom end effector that I printed for my v6. There are plenty of them on Thingiverse. Mine does not have a bed detector, I manually level my beds.
DLC
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Quoteaflactheastronaut
Oh wow, I forgot I started this thread. It's been a while, and I'm happy to hear that you've solved a bunch of problems DLC!
As for me, I found some of the documentation that I was looking for in the original post. It was on the SD card that came with the printer, and I just hadn't looked for it there. Oops.
I've made it through half a spool of PETG, which has its ups and
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
I think they look good for your first color print..
What filament are you using?
Post your slicer settings, It appears that you could some help fine tuning the settings..
It appears you already have a good Slicer ("Simplify3D 4.0")
I have Chimera clone mounted to a Tarantula X-carriage carrier for this X-carr (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1438795)
I spent a couple of ho
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
I see you got your Tevo Tarantula Printing. Good Show!
Now the hard part learning all the little secrets of how to get that perfect print. Just kidding you will have lots of fun learning the rest.
I am thrilled because I am getting two color prints to come out. I would never be happy with the print quality that I am getting on a single Head printer. I have to tune each head to
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
I have finally gotten this thing dialed in about as well as I think that it is possible with my current setup. My nozzles would jam frequently, and I did some investigation and found that the fan on the heat sink is LAUGHABLE. Far too weak and puny for the job. The heat sink gets HOT, not warm, not a little hot, but HOT. I tried lots of different things and some are not possible because the t
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
I have many times done this, cut the wires about 2-3inches from the thermister and splice in a replacement.
Using shrink tubing to cover the splice.
I have changed my spiral wrap wire dressing, with a 3D Printed chain made it easier to replace the thermister although it is still not an easy task..
I am using the Thingirob modular X-car for my X carriage. I'll have to re-mix a
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
QuoteSteveRoy
As Dust suggests replace the MOSFET with a IRLB8743BF or get a quality RAMPS like this one from StaticBoards
I upgraded both my printers with them.
If you are even reasonably comfortable with a soldering iron, replacing the MOSFET is your best bet. External SSR's will work, but . Replace the MOSFET, they're cheap. The RAMPS board is also pretty cheap, just don't buy that bran
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
It turns out the problem is no mystery at all. I turned the printer on this morning and noticed a hesitation in the X movement after homing. Examination showed a loose pulley on the X stepper! I must not have tightened it all the way down. I am firing up another print and will report on the results.
If this works, then it is on to correcting what is obviously an under extrusion issue on both
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Sadly,
It didn't turn out too well.
This is a Tevo Tarantula, updated with lots of bracing, custom bed platform and Chimera clone.
Here are my first two individual head prints. Red is left head, green is right.
With high hopes I created a two-color version of the honerable XYZ calibration cube, hopefully to show red letters in a green cube.
Yeah, not so much.
I use Simplify3D as my slice
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
It could be a bad thermister or the wires on the thermister are shorting.
Either one is bad, and worse when intermittant. Usually the problem is a press-down screw being too tight and crushing the insulation. I have a LOT of these type thermistors, so I cut wires, connectorized that thermistor and replaced it. As things fail I tend to put connectors close to the head because
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif
On my 3D Printer when I get a reading of -14 the thermister is open
when I get a reading of 358 the thermister is shorted
I have never had that happened. It looks like I need to replace that thermistor.
Onward.
Now if I can figure out why the gcode from S3D chooses the wrong extruder.
Thanks,
DLC
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
First, the details:
Newly build Tevo Tarantula (boatloads up upgrades installed).
Chimera clone (gift from son)
Using stock MKS board.
Marlin 1.1.8 with suggested two-headed configuration.h settings
Simplify3D 4.0
Built and tested using Pronterface and the S3D connection page.
So, I know both extruders work, both E0 and E1 heaters and thermistors work (maybe, see later)
All the mechanical stuff
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
While there seems to be a p***ing match going on in this thread, it is a fairly polite p***ing match and I am learning quite a bit about Smoothieware and Duet firmware capabilities. I'd like to see a Duet vs. Smoothie comparison, similar to what we know about Marlin vs. Repetier.
8-bit boards are pretty good, but I watch mine stutter when they get a bit busy and there is no doubt that the new
by
dlc60
-
Controllers
I have built a couple of kits, Folgertech Kossel 2020 and Anet A8 and designed a built a couple more delta's just for the heck of it.
It is time to up my game or I'll get bored.
I got a Chimera dual hot end for a birthday recently and Got a Tarantula kit (and printed a boatload up upgrades for it) and am going to use that as my dual head experimenters platform. It is simpler than a linear-slide
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers
Amazon has something similar called "tablecloth clips". They are not as perfect as these are, but they are cheaper.
DLC
by
dlc60
-
Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVatsal J Tanna
Upon aluminium bed (which I never heat) I place a sweet box's cut out. On top of this, I stick a label paper (not sure what it is properly called) with a glue stick such that the label paper's sticky side is facing up. This setup is fastened with the use of paper clips. It might be that the setup was not fastened properly during that time. But I seriously doubt it. Since I've
by
dlc60
-
Reprappers