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I wouldn't have thought it would mate so perfectly when "floating" like that, but it looks good.
I think it will do what you want. Thomas Sanladerer did a video on the new E3D Revo system and found that it performed similarly to Volcano despite the regular sized heater, due to the heater contact area being all brass rather than half being the steel heatbreak threads in the usual setup.
Another
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dekutree64
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Developers
QuoteMarksAlot
I've been working on a similar idea, kind of inside-out. Just have to machine a few more parts.
By inside out, do you mean using an outrunner motor, or something different? I look forward to seeing it. I just finished constructing my outrunner idea that I wrote about several posts back. Check it out!
Quoterq3
Thomas Sanladerer of YouTube fame just did a segment on the new E3D ho
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Last July in rq3's Schnekenstruder thread I wrote about my idea to make an outrunner-based version, and finally the dream is realized! It has the same thread as the pneumatic fitting commonly used for bowden tube, so you can screw it into most heatsinks that are designed for bowden use. 37 grams, and probably could be 10 less using a 2204 motor (which is what I ordered, but received a 2208 so I w
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Ah, I'm glad I didn't bother with magnets yet then. I recommend using coarse thread screws if you're screwing into plastic. Fewer turns to take them in and out, and at least in my experience machine threads in plastic tend to wear out more quickly.
I have unloaded mine once, and with some gentle turning back and forth by hand I was able to get the lumpy end of the filament through the rollers wi
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Finally got around to finishing my poor man's schnekenstruder, and it actually works! At least mostly. For some reason it doesn't seem to be able to retract. Even with jerk/acceleration set very low, motor current set much too high for continuous running, and retraction distance 0.5mm, it still just makes a suffering noise and fails to rotate backward. But if I command it to rotate forward and ba
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Look in Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_RAMPS.h, the pins such as X_STEP_PIN, X_DIR_PIN, etc.
Regarding mechanics, your reduction ratio does look too low. 8:1 is reasonably good (15 tooth motor pulleys and 120 tooth arm pulleys). Use metal for the small ones and print the big ones. Use 16 tooth if you can't find 15. I recommend putting another bar above the elbow pulley, with bearings around the elbo
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dekutree64
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Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Very common on CNC routers using rack & pinion for the X axis. Never seen it on a 3D printer due to the added moving mass.
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dekutree64
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Developers
For sure you need cooling on those drivers. My mini mill uses NEMA 23 motors (specs same as yours, not sure if same brand) with a4988 drivers. I have small heatsinks stuck to the driver chips, which get quite hot in ambient air, but with a 4010 fan blowing on them they stay nice and cool. I'm running on 12V, but I'm not sure if that matters since the drivers regulate the current. The sound of the
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dekutree64
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General
Certainly the crossed bars would be too heavy or too flexible if you use solid steel, but thin walled tubes are much stiffer for their weight, like what's used on the MPCNC. Or you could use something like MGN7 rails mounted to carbon fiber tubes (though differential thermal expansion could potentially be a problem). Lighter still if you make foam sandwich tubes
That would also be a good way to
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dekutree64
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Mechanics
Look up Ultimaker printers. They use that style of crossed bar gantry. I do like it better than CoreXY. Though Ultimaker uses a cantilever bed, which won't work at your size.
I think the lack of large printers is just due to lack of demand. They're big and heavy and slow and expensive and easy enough to build yourself if you actually have a use for one. Weight increases very quickly with size. G
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dekutree64
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Mechanics
Into the cleansing fire it goes So much easier than trying to deal with plastic. But do scrape off what molten plastic you can with a toothpick before burning, to reduce the amount of smoke and residue produced. And yes, use the printer's own heater for disassembly.
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dekutree64
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General
Yes and yes. But unless your needle is super sharp, it will take some effort to scratch brass. Toothpicks are also useful to scrape around everywhere except the tiny hole, and to push a bit of paper towel through the heatbreak to sweep it out.
I've never had a full clog, but plenty of partial clogs causing inconsistent extrusion problems. One thing that helps is to use a binder clip to hold a pi
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dekutree64
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General
Yeah, old filament could be trouble. At the very least it probably needs to be dehydrated. Push some through by hand and see if you can see or hear any snap-crackle-pop of bubbles forming.
Clean the nozzle if you haven't already (or buy a new one). I just hold it in a fire with pliers until all the plastic burns into white powder and then wash under running water, using a needle to scrape around
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dekutree64
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General
One option would be to keep the Y rods like you have them but switch to SBR blocks for the adjustability, and buy a single high quality linear rail for the X axis since that's the one that really makes a difference in terms of moving weight.
Though it should be noted that rails rust much more easily than chrome plated rods, so if you're already having rust problems then you may be better off reb
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dekutree64
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CoreXY Machines
Look for name brand rails like IKO, THK, NSK, Misumi. You may not be able to find any long enough for a 400mm bed, though. Especially not under $100 each.
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dekutree64
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CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentistThe PTFE sliding bearings used in the sand table are not suitable for a 3D printer. They are fine for a sand table, but they do not provide the sort of precise, accurate motion that is needed to produce a high quality print with a nozzle that is a fraction of a mm in diameter. The best linear bearings are linear guides, but these days there are a lot of crappy ones being s
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dekutree64
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CoreXY Machines
Yep... soldering to large, highly conductive objects is impossible without either heating the entire thing to high temperature, or using a tool that can deliver heat more quickly than it can be conducted away. I bought this soldering iron a few months ago and love it
Low power for small circuit board work, but with boost button to handle large things too. Don't know why it's not a standard featu
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dekutree64
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General
I'd recommend keeping the fan off during printing. In my early days of printing I had all sorts of trouble with cooling shrinkage due to convection with the room air, especially with the printer sitting on the floor where cold air sinks to. Much better in an enclosure with stagnant air.
Try 60C bed temperature for PLA. Prints should stick to the bare glass, and pop off like magic when cool. Keep
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dekutree64
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Safety & Best Practices
You may as well assume it will remain affordable. I doubt it will become prohibitively expensive due to "normal" reasons like resin printing popularity. Both have their strengths and weaknesses, so most likely both markets will continue to grow. If anything happens, it will be due to large scale political/economic/financial disasters, and then everything else will be just as scarce and expensive.
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dekutree64
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Here's an example of the way axial fans behave with ducts/nozzles: When I posted that video to reddit a couple years ago, and suggested that people check their axial fan nozzles for air flow, a bunch of people said it had to be fake, so I shot another video:
Wow, great video. I wouldn't have expected it to go fully backward.
The big difference between this and jet eng
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dekutree64
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General
Wow, I didn't know Corel Draw was still active. Last time I used it was on Windows 3.1
Nowadays I use Inkscape for vector graphics.
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dekutree64
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General
Sounds like it's not something you install on the printer, but rather stick on temporarily whenever you need to re-calibrate the bed leveling
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dekutree64
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General New Machines Topics
I think M0 does what you want. At least it does on GRBL, which I use all the time on my mini-mill. Marlin is derived from GRBL, so it probably works the same way there, although I haven't actually tried it. I have no experience with RepRapFirmware, but from the documentation it sounds like it's the same.
I don't know if it has support for physical buttons though. On GRBL you can use the A1 and A
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dekutree64
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General New Machines Topics
I've decided to go with the canted axle/sharpened bearing flange approach. I'm not sure my mill could handle boring out a 10mm steel screw, nor do I have an easy way to get it centered and vertical under the spindle, so I'm going to have to make some new fixturing regardless. And the bearing should be sharper and longer lasting.
I'm using a 4x8x3mm flange bearing because it's what I have on hand
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Thank you! That ought to save me a few trials and errors. But I also now see where all your money went
We should be able to eliminate the expensive shoulder screws by machining the posts as part of the carrier and using short M3 screws to hold the rollers on. Also can leave a little ledge at the bottom to replace the shims. Of course this will mean that only people with CNC milling capability c
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Thanks, that confirms my thoughts. I probably could make a fixture to mill/drill the tilted axes on my 3DOF mini-mill, but I'd actually prefer the higher effective gear ratio since it should allow using even lighter motors. There is one seller for pancake NEMA11 on ebay, though it costs $25 with shipping, and has a 4mm shaft, which doesn't leave much meat after drilling a 2mm hole.
I'm also toyi
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Brilliant design! Might actually be light enough to convert my SCARA printer to direct drive. I have a 50 gram round NEMA14 I could use. And TMC2209 drivers, so I can adjust the microsteps to whatever works best. I'd prefer to use non-canted axles so I can make the carrier out of aluminum, but would all three rollers need to be threaded then since the filament would be getting dragged axially acr
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dekutree64
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Tech-Talk
Put heat shrink tubing or hot glue over the solder joints and they should be fine.
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dekutree64
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General
Yeah, homing is the most difficult part to get working because there's so much related code that it's difficult to tell what actually gets run and what should be run. I struggled a lot, but eventually got it narrowed down to just a few small changes:
Conditionals_post.h line 182: Add #if ENABLED(MORGAN_SCARA) check around QUICK_HOME (in other words, don't enable QUICK_HOME)
Motion.cpp lines 1318
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dekutree64
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Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I wouldn't really consider there to be a life expectancy for the printer as a whole. Many parts wear out (PTFE tubes, nozzles, mechanical limit switches, belts, bearings, fans, leadscrew nuts, etc.) but all are replaceable. I'd make it a maintenance cost in dollars worth of parts and labor per 100 hours of printing time. Hard to guess what a typical value for it would be, though.
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dekutree64
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General
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