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Re: e3d-v6 assembly - 10 years ago

The heatbreak is the metal tube that connects your heater block and your heatsink. Not the PTFE tube that you have in your hand. The filament will travel down the hole at the top of the heatsink, and will be go through the heatbreak and in to your heater block. I assume you mean you're not using a bowden setup. In that case, you are good to go. You don't need the PTFE tube if you're not using a

by genelmx - Reprappers

Re: Megatronics 2.0 - 10 years ago

From left to right: Full step: no | no | no | no Half step: yes | no | no | no 1/4 step: no | yes | no | no 1/8 step: yes | yes | no | no 1/16 step: yes | yes | yes | no 1/32 step: yes | yes | yes | yes If you're using an A4988 Pololu then you probably want 1/16. If your LCD controller did not come with a Megatronics specific adapter board, you can buy it from ebay, search 'lcd adapter board'.

by genelmx - Developers

Re: need help: abs printing orange skin like surface - 10 years ago

Increase your extrusion temperature and you don't have to use a fan for ABS prints.

by genelmx - Printing

Re: Extruder stops pulling PLA in... - 10 years ago

1. Start with getting your prints to stick so you know exactly when your hotend jams. There are many solutions mentioned, a glue stick is quick and it works for now. I use Kapton tape with a heated bed and blue tape without. 2. For the purpose of troubleshooting, increase your extrusion temperature to ~200-210C. Disengage the extruder tensioner and remove the hobbed bolt. Try pushing the filamen

by genelmx - Reprappers

Re: Incorrect information on Thermistor wiki - 10 years ago

I agree to much of what you've lamented about the fragmentation of ideas in the community. But I think we're straying far from my initial question. I do intend to edit the wiki but I thought i'd run it by the community first. QuoteTraumflug That's your opinion. Others have no trouble with the small ones. Pointing out the differences (faster response time(?) vs. easier handling) would be a welcom

by genelmx - Controllers

Re: Looking to upgrade My heatbed MK2A-ALU 3mm Heatbed- Has anyone used? Recommend? - 10 years ago

I just got mine and was planning on running glassless with a PEI sheet. Haven't installed it but it looks flat. What sort of resistance are you getting? I've got 5.8ohms @ 24V and 3.2ohms (abit high? edit: realized I have to connect both 2 and 3 to ground, mine is 1.4 ohms) at 12V. I also got mine from RepRap.me which sells for a bit more than the ones from eBay china, so could it be a quality is

by genelmx - Controllers

Re: Incorrect information on Thermistor wiki - 10 years ago

Thanks Traumflug. When I refer to "the community's decision" I am referring to common knowledge and practice that the majority of RepRapers have more or less agreed is correct in the practical sense. Which is why they appear in the default thermistor tables in popular firmwares. I am not asking how to mount a thermistor or how to deal with a thermistor that is too small. I am merely asking if th

by genelmx - Controllers

Incorrect information on Thermistor wiki - 10 years ago

Is the EPCOS thermistor listed here in the wiki correct? I've just received my RS orders and it seems like they are way too small. I had a look at the datasheet before I ordered which says its 0.8mm diameter which at first seemed alright since I thought the community was moving towards smaller thermistors (eg, E3D moving from EPCOS to Semitec 104-GT2). Now that i've received them, I don't see how

by genelmx - Controllers

Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. - 10 years ago

@Reinhold Thanks! I'm aware of it but, suppose I have another way of tensioning the belt (on the carriage), what other purpose do those two idlers serve? I am looking to keep things as compact as possible. I am going to print and test it out anyway but was hoping jand or zelogik could save me some time if they have already tried it.

by genelmx - CoreXY Machines

Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. - 10 years ago

Hi zelogik and jand, is there any reason why the motor mount cannot be direct? What I mean is, remove the 2 idler pulleys in the motor block, and the 90degree bend from motor block to XY block. I have attached a picture to make it clearer.

by genelmx - CoreXY Machines

Copper Plated Heatbed - Yes or No? - 11 years ago

Hi, i'm just starting to accumulate the parts for a Prusa but the PCB Heatbed wiki has got me a little confused. Quote"WARNING!!! Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!! There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!! If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or

by genelmx - General