My steppers are 1.8° @ 92oz.in. I've got a 16 tooth on the stepper and 32 tooth directly attached to the ball screws for the Z. I'm using 20 tooth gears for X&Y. I'm using 6mm belt as well, and so far, don't see any issues. I may upgrade to a real Gates belt later on. I'm using the same steppers for the X&Y right now, but may go to some 0.9 if I see any print artifacts. I've see aby gen2eng - CoreXY Machines
I'm close to completing on a 400mm x 400mm CoreXY right now. All motion is V-Slot based. Part design is a mix of D-Bot and Hypercube. I'm having very good success with the Carbon fiber filled PETG from Atomic Filament. Rigidity of parts is excellent and I'm not seeing any sag or creep on the printed motor mounts when stress testing the steppers at full operating temperature. It's some of tby gen2eng - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDC42 The Duet firmware doesn't currently support averaging of temperature inputs (although it does support multiple bed heater zones Thanks for the clarification as I did misinterpret what I read. Quotethe_digital_dentist Using a TCO in thermal contact with the heater/bed to interrupt power to the heater is the ultimate in runaway protection. I agree the TCO is the best route, but was lookiby gen2eng - General
I am building a 400x400 printer using a 800W 380x380 Keeenovo silicone heater. It will be attached to a 6.6mm thick MIC6 plate. (Trying to find a 8mm source in the US that is reasonable priced) I was intending on use the integrated thermistor, but I recently noticed the Duet firmware supports what I believe is is averaging off temperature inputs? I've been considering use of a PT100 or Type Kby gen2eng - General
Take a look at the Berd-Air cooling kit. I've been using this on a couple of deltas to reduce mass and it works well. I typically run at about 25-30% for cooling which is more than sufficient.by gen2eng - CoreXY Machines
I've attached is a STEP file of the Peizo20 board to making designing with it a bit easier. DjDemonD was gracious enough to send a board to make this possible.by gen2eng - General
The must durable I've used are the E3D style bowden clips. They don't have metal tabs that fatigue under heavy retraction and break off like the typical metal bodies pneumatic fittings. A spacer / clip is needed under the collet to ensure good solid retention.by gen2eng - General
I've been searching the forums, but I'm failing to find dimensional data for the Pizeo20 board. I've made attempts to measure the STL files for the groove mount, but would rather build a 3D model of the PCB as space is limited and my STL measurements are suspect. This a variant of a D-Bot with ideas taken from the HyperCube design. The clamped hot end pivots on a buried 4mm shoulder bolt (axiby gen2eng - General
Updated to 1.15c and I'm still getting the purple temp and unable to change. I'm still using 1.14 PanelDue firmware with a 0.8.5 board.by gen2eng - Duet
I'm seeing what I believe is a glitch with the new temperature monitoring code. My typical print startup routine is: Preheat the bed Preheat the hotend to 170C Auto Calibrate the bed Bring the hotend to printer temperature and print. I goofed and managed to knock the bed off my FSR sensors before the normal routine and killed power immediately when I saw the auto calibrate failing. After poby gen2eng - Duet
I noticed a similar issue with the 1.10 release. I accidentally hit the pause button on my PanelDue during a print. Upon resuming the print, it started printing the next layer without completing the layer it was on. I let it go and it finished "okay" as the perimeter had already printed and the rest was infil. Slicer was Simplify3D if that lends any insight.by gen2eng - Duet
Dave, More PWM fan outputs vs. always on would be a big bonus. It's one feature I miss compared to my Smoothie board. 1. Layer Fan 2. Hot End Fan 3. Chassis Fan (Cooling stepper drivers, etc) I like being able to shut the fans down as needed after a print to keep the noise down and preserve fan life. Overall, I am impressed with the Duet and especially the firmware. I was a bit hesitant atby gen2eng - Duet
Below is probably what you are looking for. It's a kit doing what you have described. http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=28by gen2eng - General
I have to agree with Prometheus being an ideal high temp hotend, and possibly the best. The barrel is a one-piece polished design which eliminates joints that can cause binding, sticking, etc. I have mine configured with a 2mm long transition zone and a nut on each side of the heater block and I get excellent results with a bowden setup and PLA. No need to using the oil trick and it works wellby gen2eng - General
I've got an OrdBot with a Bowden setup... nice to see another and looks great! Do yourself a favor and print some clips/shims that wedge under the push to release ring and you will improve longevity of the tube and fitting. It will also help reduce the hysteresis during retracts.by gen2eng - Reprappers
I would run a Genuine J-Head Nozzle if just running PLA or ABS. If you want to eventually run higher temp materials then spend a bit more and get an E3D or Prometheus Hot End. Search the RepRap forums and you will find information on all three.by gen2eng - General
I was able to narrow the jamming down to the surface roughness of the PLA. You were spot on it was more friction related than anything. The PLAs with polished surface would print without issues, and anything with a satin or rough finish would jam. I have completed design, print, and assembly of an Accessible Wade's style extruder and have been able to lower my temperatures back to 195 and easiby gen2eng - General
I agree with sheepdog... If going bowden, you may have issues with .4mm nozzles and smaller. An all metal hotend will only make it worse if printing PLA. I've run into issues where the difference between a direct drive working or not is how smooth the PLA filament is. If it had a rough texture, I was not able to generate enough pressure without loosing steps. I have since switched to a geareby gen2eng - Reprappers
After having run a few smaller prints with the PLA that has worked, I have tried the troublesome PLA's again with much improved results. 1. I've been able to reduce temperatures down to about 200C. 2. Complete jams are gone. 3. I do get occasional motors skips (after reaching full extrusion speed). I can't increase current much more without overheating the stepper. A geared extruder build as mby gen2eng - General
Thanks Eric! The PLAs that are working are manufactured by Prototype Supply (Green and Cool Grey). The PLAs not working are a blue Ultimachine which was very unexpected and a blue and grey PLA from MatterHackers. Diameters are 1.78 maximum to about 1.72 egg shape on the MatterHackers and the Ultimachine is a round 1.77 and the working Prototype Supply is a round 1.74. The extruder is a directby gen2eng - General
My 1.75mm Prometheus bowden configuration is up and running! I've followed the stock assembly instructions at http://www.dta-labs.com/pages//instructions. Fit and finish is very nice and assembly was quite easy. It heats very quickly, and with a PID tune I'm stable within about a 0.2C window. I did wrap the heater block with some silicone tape as extra insurance against a loose thermistor.by gen2eng - General
Assuming parts are printing small, an alternate method assuming steps per mm are correct and your E steps are dialed in giving you good print results is to scale the part in your slicing software. PLA shrinks a tiny amount and ABS a bit more.by gen2eng - Printing
1.2 ohms appears to be a reasonable value for bed resistance. I'm also assuming the reported bed temperature is a sane value. If it's not, the firmware will prevent heating. Depending on your firmware settings, I believe there is a PID setting that limits the maximum current going to bed. It's something along the lines of PID_MAX. You will want to increase this if it's less than 255. If youby gen2eng - Reprappers
No need to wire with high temp wire all the way back to the board, and I've used the XT60 without issue also. Don't solder to the resistor as it will most likely reflow and short. Just take your time and make sure you have a good crimp. I sleeve my crimped connection with a high temperature jacket that you can find in use on DC motor brushes to prevent shorts.by gen2eng - General