I've found a very cheap laser cutting service online. I've replaced my left Z car with my new design: The pastic version had a problem where the part holding the metal was flexing under the belt's tension. This version solves it (and it just costs 6 USD, shipping included ) Now, I'll work for the right Z car.by drmaestro - Reprappers
It is true that fluctuations in bed temperature would create expensions or shrinkages, however I am quite sure that my problem is different. My reasons: 1) My bed temperature is calibrated and themperature changes 0.1 C at most (I print PLA at 60 degrees, so I may get 59.9 or 60.1 degrees) and I don't think a variation of 0.1 degree is capable of making drastic changes. 2) My print cooling fansby drmaestro - Printing
I am not sure this is exactly the same problem. On the picture, I can see surface artefacts due to ringing and as the head has to move in opposite direction at the hole, it creates a different ringing pattern and they don't superimpose, so it gives the illusion of a displaced layer. Did you feel any difference in thickness? I am already on Prusa Slicer and the parts are printed on it, but I hadby drmaestro - Printing
Some more observations: I've printed the object in different orientations to see if it is a belt problem. The problem exists in all of the orientations (horizontal, vertical, 45 degrees) and it is always at the same location and at the same direction, so this should exclude a belt problem. I've also added another object roughly the same length but without holes and there is no layer shift at thaby drmaestro - Printing
I believe the problem you have is quite similar to mine. Please have a look at this thread : This is a difficult problem to solve. A lot of people, in my case, suggested a problem with belts being loose or too tight, however I don't think that's the case. I have printed the same object (the Make printer test file, which can be found at ) with different orientations but the same artefact (thickeby drmaestro - Printing
Hi, I've already upgraded the Z axis and the X axis of my printer with linear rails. They work nicely. Now the last part that needs upgrading (which still uses end-supported 8 mm rods) is the Y axis, which carries the printing plate and moves in a single axis (the Y axis of course). Now, I have 2 options. I can go for linear rails (probably 12 mm) or for fully supported 12 mm rods (which are suby drmaestro - Reprappers
Wow, lots of choices. So many models, so little time Meanwhile, I continue with experimenting with a slightly different approach. One goal that I had, to increase the rigidity of the system, was to try to replace some plastic parts with industrial alternatives or metal ones: With that goeal in mind, I tried to simplify the Z car's design, so that it can be made from metal. It is still work in pby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, This is a topic that can be found on the Internet forums, but I still haevn't seen one where the exact reason is described and also how to correct it. The problem: : If a layer contains features such as holes, the entire layer's width is changed. It doesn't align with the previous layer. It sounds like a belt problem or loose idler but it probably isn't, as no one is able to correct it byby drmaestro - Printing
QuoteMKSA Just have a look at the "Prusa" of the OP. It has more rails and Al profiles than a CoreXY but arranged in a quasi erratic way all assembled with flimsy 3D printed parts. A good belt tensioner won't change much and the one "designed" is a joke (not yours). The OP could make two decents Prusa or one CoreXY So ? It happens DD gives all the details to build a good CoreXY. Well, the oby drmaestro - Reprappers
Any suggestions on which CoreXY models to choose from?by drmaestro - Reprappers
QuoteMKSA With all these linear rails and Al extrusions why not build for example a CoreXY based on a proven built ? Only a couple to choose from, so the choice is easy. If I ever build a 3D printer from scratch again, it'll definitely be a CoreXY, as the moving mass is lighter. This one is 7 years old now (it's this model) and I have modified it with a lot of improvements (steppers with nativby drmaestro - Reprappers
I've printed the Z car with the modified idler. Here's how it looks: I think it is much more practical to tension this way compared to manually pulling the belt while trying to put it in its connection point on the X car. The problem with wobbling is also gone (almost): Now I have to find a way to preserve the tension, as I feel like the pulling force may decrease it after a while. Maybe fiby drmaestro - Reprappers
You are right, while tha part was stable with the 2 bolts in place without any pulling force by the belt, it was bending slightly under load, so I have tried to modify it according to your suggestions: I've added 2 bolts on top and also raised the part on the Z car to provide support for the top part. On the picture, the piece on the rear is the section of the Z car where the idler tensioner wby drmaestro - Reprappers
QuoteMechaBits also the slots for the rails dont really need to be there, thicker material in that point, shifting things up a tad might help with moving & improving the idler. I'd redesign the whole of x & z, just 2 rails for Z an one for X with a piece of 2020 for support....then with the 2 free linear guides maybe alter the bed next. I'll definitely take these suggestions into consideby drmaestro - Reprappers
QuoteMechaBits I too thought it was a bit flimsy but didnt know how thick it is 10mm 15 or 20 but the slot in the Z nut trap makes it weaker at a point, not sure why you have that, is it for some Z wobble thing? In one of my printers I am using 2 rails with no support (though one rail is acting just as stiffener), I think I could go with one rail, but in yours maybe you could use 2 but closer tby drmaestro - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist In your build the working side of the X belt loop is the side closest to the extruder. It has to be parallel to the X guide rails. The other side of the loop doesn't. Add an idler on the nonworking side that can push against the belt to increase its tension. That whole assembly looks a bit too flexy for me... Where can I add the idler you have mentioned? The belt is prby drmaestro - Reprappers
QuoteMechaBits cant understand why the belt is tensioned on the Z, would need to see more, doesnt look like enough material for the idler post, what about another part to secure top of idler? Is there a specific idler post to use for the idlers? I use bolts but I am not sure they are the exact fit.by drmaestro - Reprappers
Basically, here is how the entire X-Z axis looks like: The only way to tension the belt is at its junction level at the X car (tthe green part - here are two ribbed parts where the GT2 belt is put in. I first tie one end (let's say the left one), then I have to use pliers to tension the second end manually (which is hard) and put it in place and fix with zip-ties. Instead of doing that, I prefby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I am trying to add a belt tensioner to my current Z car design. Here's how it looks right now: The hole in the middle of the car is for the leadscew. The 2 vertical rectangular parts at the lateral sides are used to connect the car to linear rails. The small circular space with a hole in the middle just next to the left rectangular connector is used the idler. I have 2 problems with thisby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I want to start by posting a picture which demonstrates a problem I had with my printer and how I solved it, but I am trying to pinpoint the main culprit, so that I know what I am doing, in case it happens again. The prints I was getting looked like the one piece on the rightmost part of the picture. There were obvious irregularities on the walls. It wasn't Z wobble, as it wasn't periodicby drmaestro - Printing
Hi, My hotend has 2 part cooling fand. They naturally have to work simultaneously. Is it advisable to use a single PWM output on the board for this purposr or should I use a single output by splitting the wire? Also, if splitting is an option, is there a tool/crimp/etc to split a wirein two? I try to wrap 1 wire around the crimp of the second wire but it isn’t very solid of course and can be diby drmaestro - Duet
Thanks for the suggestions. Quotethe_digital_dentist I kept the original belt clamp (bright green) which is a printed part and screws to the extruder mount with a single screw. Doesn't using a single screw for the belt clamp create a possibility for the rotation of the clamp? When the belts are tensioned, they could apply a rotational force. Maybe using a larger belt clamp with 2 side holeby drmaestro - General
Hi, I am trying to make a design change to my cartesian printer. I wanted to try the Bondtech BMG extruder and while the form factor is close to Titan (my current extruder), it doesn't directly fit, so I wanted to make a new design. Here is the picture of what I did: As you can see, it is a single rail system (MGN 9) and it integrates a BLTouch. The blue part is the car and the red part is thby drmaestro - General
Hi, For some time, I had a strange problem: Whenever I used G29 for mesh leveling, I was getting very similar maps, even though I was making radical changes at the bed leveling screws. I couldn't understand why these changes weren't affecting the height map, then today I have realized something: When I issued a horizontal move command from the panel due, the Z axis also moved. I didn't expect thby drmaestro - Duet
I have bought one yesterday. Noctua fans have some additional wires included in the box that you can add to the connector to decrease fan loudness. I suppose they have some resistors inside. It is clearly marked that the CFM value also decreases with noise level. They also supposedly have some design elements that reduce noise, but that could all be fake science....by drmaestro - Reprappers
So get noctua fans + do the temperature control mod = silence (+/- earplugs and enclosure for total bilss )by drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, There are many different PLA brands out there and I was wondering if there are major differences between brands. I am especially interested in knowing if those special PLAs (like PLA + or pro) make any difference, or at the end of the day we have the same material with various marketing gimmicks. Any thoughts?by drmaestro - Printing
Hi, I am using Duet3D wifi in x256 interpolation mode and the TMC drivers make the motors virtually silent. However there is another source of noise which is due to various cooling fans. I am trying to minimize that, so I am looking for suggestions on which brands to use. In practice there are 4 different fans on my setup: 1) Cooling fan for cooling Duet3D. While Duet3D has a stable thermal desby drmaestro - Reprappers
Quotedc42 1. RepRapFirmware compares the measured filament consumption with the commanded extrusion, and can be set to pause the print if the difference goes out of tolerance. See for how to set this up. So far this has been used with 3 types of filament sensor: (a) Prototype Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor. This is very accurate but mechanically more complex than we would like. See .by drmaestro - Developers