After a lot of messing around with the bowden setup I decided that enough was enough and that I should have listened to Felipe. The bowden extruder is gone! And so have all the retraction and jamming issues. This is the new direct drive setup. The pancake drive is half the weight of a normal Nema 17, so no issues with print speed yet.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Overview of the complete printer; My goal was not to make this an airtight printer. I don't use ABS so smell isn't an issue but with my old printer I had many problems due to draft, especially during warm day's when a window was open or a fan was blowing. I hope that this will give enough protection against draft.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
I am using 2 magnets per corner, one on the panel, one on the frame. These neodymium magnets are very strong so there is no risk that panels will fall off. The panels are not sitting flush to the frame to prevent them from rattling against the frame. I will post some more pictures tonight.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Don't know what material the large gear is, but its certainly not PLA. The small gear is metal. The gear ratio is 3:1 but the little drive wheel is also smaller than the MK8 drive wheel so the total reduction is about 5:1 compared to the MK8. Thomas Sanladerers review of the Titanby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Just a quick update, Although the print quality wasn't bad at all I still wasn't happy with the reliability of the extruder, especially when using more than 2mm retraction or when using fast retraction. The extruder motor (and driver) couldn't handle the high torque and was causing the filament to get stuck inside the heatbreak. The solution was to use a geared extruder so I bought the new E3D Tby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Unobtanium is more or less finished. The only things left are the side panels (windows), some end caps for the 60x20 and the 20x20 extrusions and some more tweaking to get the print speed a little bit higher. At the moment the speed is 150% of my Prusa and the print quality is a lot better. Hotend with dual coolers "Unobtanium" start screen Lights are on! The stepper drivers were getby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
After spending a few days trying to get my Chinese V6 hotend to work, I decided that enough was enough and ordered a genuine E3D V6 hotend. What a difference an other hotend can make! The Chinese knockoff kept jamming no mater what I tried, the genuine hotend prints perfect on just the default settings recommended by E3D. Youtube video of the first test print with a genuine E3D hotend The firsby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
I think that the Igus bearings would be great if they were placed inside a metal sleeve, this would add the necessary rigidity and protection against over tightening. The printer starts to print really nice now and the sound isn't too bad. So far I am very happy with the design and the progress that I'm making in tweaking the machine. The Igus bearings were only a minor issue for me and it didnby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
The Igus bearings in the X-carriage are replaced by LM8UU's! I couldn't print round circles, only lemons and the infill didn't lineup correctly leaving smal gaps. Changing the belt tension didn't help but replacing the bearings did. I suspect that there was too much friction between the Igus bearings and the smoothrods. Also the Chinese E3D V6 clone is gone, this hotend kept on jamming due to rby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Today my spindle arrived so I can finally run some test prints. Marvin is not so easy to print without a layer fan, but at least the printer is working. Still a lot of tweaking to do but the first results are not bad.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
One my initial goals was to make the wiring of this printer look somewhat "professional" and not like an explosion in a cable factory So I spend so extra time and effort on cable management. All cables are held in place by 3mm steel rods, this enables me go create clear and easy routes for the cables. All visible wires are sleeved with black mesh, I hope that this will make them less visible whenby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
The stops are when the Z-axis moves down one layer. Probably this will need some (or a lot of) tweaking to get it working more smoothly. I don't have the spindle yet, this is the only part that is keeping me from finishing the printer. All all the wiring is done and everything functions. How much tension do the belts need? They are reasonably tight at the moment but I can still pull them aboutby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
I'm using a Bowden setup sorry! Quotesimon_smithson I'm currently using 1/16 stepping, do I just double all my steps per mm if I move to 1/32? There's a jumper on the board to switch to 1/32, correct? Yes and yes, just set the jumper to 1/32 and double the steps/mm for all stepper motors.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Vref is the maximum current setting on a ramps or compatible board (using a potmeter), a MKS Sbase doesn't have Vref potmeters but the max current is set via the config.txt file. My extruder setting is 280 steps/mm on 1/32 micro stepping (had the extruder running yesterday and did a calibration test). The extruder is a Chinese MK8 contraption.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
My printer is not up and running yet and it seems that you are at least a week or so ahead of me. So far I hardly touched the config file but as soon as I have a working file then I will gladly share it.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Quotejaguarking11 What touchscreen is that? How does it interface with MKS-Base? The screen is a 3.2" touchscreen from MKS. This is the Aliexpress link. The screen is connected to the Aux1 connector of the controller.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos One question: you are going with an enclosure, then why the little black panel at bottom and not go directly with the enclosure solution? I see you have an E3D v6 to print abs too. It will be nice if you put a complete enclosure on top, you can go with the chain cable solution David was used. The enclosure will be black acrylic at the top and bottom and clear acrylic in betweeby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Having owned a Prusa i3 for about two years now and having replaced and modified almost every part of the original kit I'm finally able to use this printer without any tinkering and the print results are usually great without having to do any voodoo anymore. But what's the fun in that? So, it's time for a new project. I have been looking around for a design that I really liked and stumbled uponby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Change of plan! I've build the X and Y axis but I'm not happy with the stability, there is too much flex in the Igus bearings. If I tighten the screws more the flex gets less but the bearings don't glide smoothly over the rods anymore. And even with all screws tight there is still too much flex. I suppose that Igus bearings need a metal housing to work properly and the printed plastic bearingby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
No complaints so far, the shipment was 100% complete. Also the cuts are very precise, just as Felipe already mentioned. My initial idea was to cut the profiles myself but I couldn't have done a better job myself. Parts are starting to arrive, but not in any predictable or logical order so progress is still very slow.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
A small package from motedis.com arrived today; A few hours later;by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Making some slow progress, all plastic parts are printed and ready for assembly but most other parts are on the slow boat from China so I'm kind of dead in the water here. Anyway, I managed to do some assembly; More jigsaw pieces; And the steppermotors from reprapworld have arrived (4 in total).by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Does the bearing on top make any difference in your opinion? If yes then I would like to use the bracket and the bearing. If it doesn't make much difference then I will try it without.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
Filipe, just a quick question; In the BOM is a 608zz bearing listed. I can't find any place in the 123dx file where to put this bearing. Am I right to assume that this bearing is a support for the Z-spindle, but that the bracket is missing from the 123dx file?by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos By the way, what prusa is one the photo? can you upload a complete photo of the printer? The piece of cardboard at the back is an experiment to reduce draft from the power supply fan. I used to have lifting issues at only the right side of the print bed, the back was always worse than the front. After this cardboard deflector the lifting issues have disappeared. My plan wasby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
My Prusa started it's life as a cheap plastic Chinese i3 kit. Since then almost everything is modified and upgraded the only original parts are the electronics and the stepper motors. The frame is a Prusa steel frame from Spain, the aluminium X axis is a Chinese kit from AliExpress and is totally modified to make it fit. I will take some pictures tomorrow during daylight.by Nosmo - CoreXY Machines
I really like this design, so much that I am going to make my own copy of the G&C printer All parts are ordered and my Prusa is already working overtime the print all the plastic pieces. I expect the first shipment to arrive tomorrow, but most of the stuff is ordered in China and this will take much longer to arrive. This is what I've got so far... I will follow Filipe's design as muby Nosmo - CoreXY Machines