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Re: TTL modulation help needed - 8 years ago

Is it correct that you up-to now have been trying to use the laser with this setup: Arduino sending PWM 0 - 255 ----->>> Chinese TTL driver --->>> Driver in white sticky stuff ---->>> Laser diode (for anyone else reading, that would be the wrong way to do it)

by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group

Re: TTL modulation help needed - 8 years ago

Basically it can be the M140 or Nichia NDB7875 or the Osram PLTB450B . It is pretty easy to identify which one if you can get to look at it physically, just google the names and you can find pictures of how the diode looks. If you can't get to look at the actual diode then I don't know - But they all more or less run the same current (A) so just run it at 1.6 A and you will be OK. See the be

by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group

Re: TTL modulation help needed - 8 years ago

Hmm, my post sounded very negative. Heads-up, the driver is fine for a lot of stuff. This week project: LINK TO PHOTO Double sided PCB for installation on my hot-end with power and Ethernet cable for signals. All made via VDX etching method and our Chinese laser driver using the TTL signal to control when it is burning or not. M42 P11 S255 and S0 respectively.

by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group

Re: TTL modulation help needed - 8 years ago

Hey, The last one is your laser driver. The one with a trimpot and a big inductor. Mine is the exact same. Mine does the exact same behavior when controlled via "standard" PWM from an Arduino. The problem is simply that you are running the TTL input too fast. You can't switch at the "standard" speeds that your Arduino controller outputs. If it goes too fast for the TTL input on the driver can

by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group

Re: China K40 conversion to Arduino - 8 years ago

No experience here, just an observation; I think you should check that you have an interlock on the door. It can be done very simply by passing the "arm" pin as per VDX suggestion through a microswitch attached to the body, that switch is then closed when the door is closed. That way the software controlled ARM signal can only reach the laser if the microswitch is closed (the cover is closed)

by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group

Re: Do it yourself from A to Z. Present you a diode laser etching of a PCB. - 8 years ago

I just have my laser work directly on black spraypaint and then remove the burned paint with a sponge. Made this, this evening: I put the headphone jack next to, to give an idea of size. There is a few lines that are not burnt enough to get etched. I will clean those with a stencil. Also I have realized that there is a gcode export mistake that I will also fix by hand. My errors asside the abo

by LarsK - Look what I made!

Re: Heatbed mosfet @30A, 12V - 8 years ago

Quotedc42 You can redefine which heater controls the bed using the H parameter of the M140 command. You can control spare pins on the expansion connector using the M42 command. See for details. Ah, that actually makes perfect sense. Extrapolating on that; unromeo21, what you need to do is look at then you identify pin 22 on the header as heat[4]. This will give you a gate driving signal

by LarsK - Controllers

Re: Thermal runaway - 8 years ago

Don't forget to change the channel extruder channel. Just go to the firmware and open the file: pins_RAMPS_14.h Inside that find the lines: #if MB(RAMPS_14_EFF) || MB(RAMPS_13_EFF) || ENABLED(IS_RAMPS_EF #define FAN_PIN 9 // (Sprinter config) Change that to: #if MB(RAMPS_14_EFF) || MB(RAMPS_13_EFF) || ENABLED(IS_RAMPS_EF #define FAN_PIN 10 // (Sprinter config)

by LarsK - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Thermal runaway - 8 years ago

Try to change the extruder channel. So instead of using D10 you use D9. It is easy to do in firmware and will tell you if the MOSFET is latching or if it is a software problem. Try to look at a curve of the temperature doing the print, does it fluctuate in a physically impossible way? Get a 3rd RAMPS (just the RAMPS, don't need another MEGA) and try that. It is only 5USD a piece anyway and yo

by LarsK - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Heatbed mosfet @30A, 12V - 8 years ago

For the record, mine is with the 0.6 Duet which has a pin out for the Mosfet gate driver so it is just pluging a cable to that and running it to my external MOSFET gates. I do understand the idea about using a transistor and controlling 12V instead. If I make an updated circuit someday, then I will maybe do that. One thing I do not understand with Duet is how to redefine pins. For example ho

by LarsK - Controllers

Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago

Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotestephenrc Use to make the configuration.h. It makes it easy to setup Repetier. Great tool, thanks! Should I enable watchdog? Yes.

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: belts path on the same plane using a belt twist - 8 years ago

The idea was discussed in here some time ago. I thought it was in the Zeologic thread but can't seem to find it now. I tried the same on my printer but at my build size with some 450 mm it seemed to me I wouldn't be able to get it working so nicely so I abandoned it. When doing this the belts does still have a width of almost 2 mm and they both want to pass in the absolute center so they will h

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: Voron 3D printer uses just one bearing per XRod... is that a smart choice? - 8 years ago

In other news; What do you guys think about this concept he uses here:

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: Voron 3D printer uses just one bearing per XRod... is that a smart choice? - 8 years ago

QuoteMikk36 QuoteLarsKTotally ignoring that; This picture is of a part I made with a hotend that could really wobble, it is my believe that the deep lines you see of a single layer offset is a consequence of this. As long as the nozzle makes the same movement all the time it is displaced the same. For this reason part of the print looks OK. Then when it moves from one contour to another it "reset

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: Voron 3D printer uses just one bearing per XRod... is that a smart choice? - 8 years ago

QuoteDjDemonD I have to say all this talk about play in bearings and nozzle centre of rotation is very nice in theory but my corexy has vertically stacked x rods and the nozzle is wobbly if you stick your finger on it and wobble it. It does not translate into poor print quality even at 175mm/s average speed it doesn't wobble when printing. So whilst a rock solid nozzle is desirable it is measurab

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: Single chip (IC) with adjustable constant current and PWM? - 8 years ago

The whole point of soft start would be not to have that. It is the exact reason why I am not just making a simple voltage regulator circuit. On the drivers that let you down, how fast were those transients? Would I be able to see them? My scope can do: ●ModelSO1062B ●Bandwidth:60MHz ●Channel:2 ●Real-Sample Rate:1GSa/s ●Equivalent Sample Rate:25GSa/s ●Record Length:1M ●Rish time:≤1.7ns/≤3.5ns/

by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group

Single chip (IC) with adjustable constant current and PWM? - 8 years ago

Hey, I stumbled across the TLD5085EJ in the LITIX series , it is a pretty awesome chip that offers to do it all up to 1800mA. From the description: • Wide Input Voltage Range from 4.75V to 45V • Constant Current or Constant Voltage Regulation • Drives LEDs in Buck Topology • Very low shutdown current consumption (typ. 0.1µA) • 370 kHz switching frequency • PWM Dimming • Integrated power-sw

by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group

Re: My Duet 0.6 set fire to my print and x axis (yes) - Need help to understand what happened - 8 years ago

Hey DC42, You posted over on the CoreXY forum that you will look into the software. That is really great to hear! I can't help you with the software but if you need any help testing your implementations then I will be happy to assist. I can setup more bench testing like the above videos. There is a confusion that might have been gotten lost in this talk about already heated printers. Please

by LarsK - Duet

Re: Which 32bit board/firmware to go for? (sorry!) - 8 years ago

Quotedc42 QuoteLarsK I took the duet and have had to learn the hard way that its firmware has close to zero safety precautions. And no plans to change this. Read my experience here: LarsK, you are the only person who has experienced anything like that. The caused was because you failed to take proper safety precautions when you assembled your hot end, by (a) failing to secure the heater cart

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: Which 32bit board/firmware to go for? (sorry!) - 8 years ago

I took the duet and have had to learn the hard way that its firmware has close to zero safety precautions. And no plans to change this. Read my experience here: The radds has repetier and also a ported web interface. So you get the same but a safer printer. For this reason I would recommend the radds.

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: My Duet 0.6 set fire to my print and x axis (yes) - Need help to understand what happened - 8 years ago

Quotedc42 Are you quite certain that Repetier will turn off after 18s if the heating fails during a print, rather than at the start? It's not straightforward to work out that something is amiss once the target temperature has been reached and PID is operating, because the controller may turn the power up and down many times in 18 seconds, and the temperature changes lag the heating power. There a

by LarsK - Duet

Re: My Duet 0.6 set fire to my print and x axis (yes) - Need help to understand what happened - 8 years ago

Just to be crystal clear. In repetier the routine is always on. Whenever it is supposed to change temperature but it does not it counts 18s ( or other set value). If it does not start to follow in this time it turns off. I believe it is build into the controller

by LarsK - Duet

Re: My Duet 0.6 set fire to my print and x axis (yes) - Need help to understand what happened - 8 years ago

You completely neglect to comment on the fact that repetier has a software that turns off after 18s because it is better designed. It is looking at the heat change. Not absolute values. You are hammering these forums telling everybody with ramps that they should upgrade to duet. You know many of these people are using the Chinese hotend. Now, instead of accepting that there is something u

by LarsK - Duet

My Duet 0.6 set fire to my print and x axis (yes) - Need help to understand what happened - 8 years ago

Hey. Yes, my print literally caught fire. Getting the spectacular part out of the way first: I smelled the smoke and a few second after I entered the room the fire alarm in the room also went off. The fire extinguisher killed the fire no problem. Despite having burned for some time it only killed the X axis and the print. Even the glass build plate is OK and the bed is entirely unmarked. It di

by LarsK - Duet

Re: Using PS-ON to control a relay that switches power on/off - 8 years ago

Hey, I am not using a PC PSU. I am using one of those dedicated 12V. It does not have a 5V. My low cost PC psu that I have been using on others printers do not turn off when the PS-ON was off by M81,, they actually still deliver some 3.5V, enough to have the fans turning slowly. I would not expect high end PC-PSUs to have that problem though.

by LarsK - Duet

Re: Using PS-ON to control a relay that switches power on/off - 8 years ago

Hey, Got the basics up and running. Like to share my experiences thus far. I am running on a Duet 0.6 with DC42 firmware 1.4. 1) The Duet 0.6 is missing a resistor on the Mosfet which controls the PS_ON. If you don't put that, then the relay may turn on again when the Duet is trying to shutdown (or so I read) Here is my implementation: The fact that I was able to solder it on is a testamen

by LarsK - Duet

Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago

Interesting. I really only have experience with ABS. I never got into PLA. Giving up all the advantages of ABS just because PLA is easier and faster just seems wrong. Some time back a guy printing Nylon threw that exact same argument in my head That said, my experience is that even an open window putting a breeze on the print can give radical different results. A continuous thin wall with

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: advise on a new build - 8 years ago

You are in luck. There is a CoreXY that is just that. It is the Smartcore by smartfriendz Find info here: Also see user J-Max who have a lot of experience with these and have shown some really nice prints made with it.

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: Z bed cantilever - 8 years ago

The old reprap core with wood have made some really nice prints and so have many other printers with a lot of wood in them. If you feel comfortable working in wood then that should be fine. However, I think it will be too heavy for cantilevered. It is hard to estimate the exact dimensions from that photo but for me it seems too much. Have a look at the (AndreasL bed) I have finished moving

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines

Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago

Hey, Looks really nice but seems a lot of work if you don't do pla printing. You for example said those parts you printed for the mock up is abs? Are all those fans just for pla or is there something about printing I am completely oblivious to?

by LarsK - CoreXY Machines