I just finished replacing several parts of my printer and will update with results after my next large print. Even though I don't understand it, I think epicepee may have been right.by Rein_Aurre - Printing
I've suddenly started experiencing a strange Z-banding issue. It appears that roughly every 10mm in height a few layers will shift very slightly and then go back to normal right after. This wouldn't be super strange on its own, but what makes it really weird is that the print immediately before this one didn't do that. You can see both prints together with my sausage fingers for scale in one iby Rein_Aurre - Printing
Quoteenif Have you checked if the leads to the thermistor could in some way cause a short among them or towards the hotend block? This could happen at a certain height or at some extreme movement of the carriage, so it would not be surprising if it happened always at the same place of the print... Definitely not a short. I tried modifying the runaway detection range from 4 to 10 and ran the samby Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
I tried another print last night. I removed half the parts from the 25 hour print and it still rebooted on almost exactly the same location on one of the parts. Fortunately I remembered to enable logging in Repetier Server before running this print, and this is what I found: < 23:49:43.-620: N20840 G92 E0 < 23:49:43.-573: N20841 G1 X47.208 Y97.225 F9000.000 > 23:49:43.-573: ok > 23by Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteVDX ... if you can't get a multimeter with USB or RS232, then search for one of the DIY-scope projects based on the PC sound card ... I only have a basic multimeter so I'll have to look into that. A quick update: I ran a 90 minute print last night that completed just fine. This morning I tried starting up the 25 hour print again and the board rebooted at almost exactly the same spot as bby Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteVDX ... log the +12V and +5V, if they are collapsing ... I'll definitely give it a try. How do I go about doing that?by Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust 4. your power supply is dieing or under powered 5. You need a UPS #4 is certainly possible. How would I determine if it's dying? It's a bit less than a year old but I've been printing a lot over the past month and as I said before, the PSU is unfortunately inside the chamber with the heated bed and hot end. I know I've touched it hours into a print and the metal housing will be incrby Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
The past two prints I've tried to do have both failed less than an hour into them. Both prints were going to be 20+ hours which is the longest I've done so far (my current longest is 19h). Fortunately I was watching the print when it happened both times. The first print failed around 50 minutes in on the 10th layer or so, the second failed around 30 minutes in on the 2nd layer. Everything wilby Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
I'll check out the gcode tonight. Is there a specific setting in Marlin/Slic3r for the Z downward speed?by Rein_Aurre - Printing
It looks like you are correct, the axis wasn't moving down all the way. I just did a print with no z-lift and it came out perfect. Do you have any idea why it might be doing that?by Rein_Aurre - Printing
For some reason my printer starts moving up higher for each layer than it should be around the time that it needs to retract more. As you can see in the images it prints the bases just fine but then as soon as it needs to do a lot of retractions (which it also does a 1mm z-lift for) it starts raising too much. It seems like it isn't lowering itself as much as it should when it does the z-lift.by Rein_Aurre - Printing
It looks like you're right Montiey. I'm currently printing out the_digital_dentist's 10mm cube that I scaled up to 20mm and it's coming out just fine. I think the difference is that the 10mm cube is solid and not hollow, so as soon as any infill is involved it does 3 perimeter walls as opposed to 1. Note: I'm using a .6mm nozzle and for some reason slic3r makes that only do 1 perimeter wall whby Rein_Aurre - Printing
I have a 20mm cube that I'm trying to print that appears to get wider at the top and bottom and I can't figure out why. It appears this way in the print preview as well as in the final print itself. I've attached (and linked) an image of the print preview. Any idea why this might be happening? It's just the standard hollow 20mm cube model.by Rein_Aurre - Printing
I'm curious. Why do you recommend against a dual motor z axis?by Rein_Aurre - CoreXY Machines
I'll try turning the speeds way down and see what happens, and I also have my first layer at 50% speed with 150% extrusion to help with adhesion. My belts are GT2 and I can only assume the pulleys actually are the correct ones for them since I bought them as a set (and it's been a while since I installed them). I've watched these shifts happen while it prints and it seems very much like the heaby Rein_Aurre - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist I was responding to the original poster. Ah, apologies. Your response is completely correct in that context.by Rein_Aurre - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Q: What is the difference between the X and Y axis? A: The bed moves in the Y axis and the extruder moves in the X axis. Q: Which weighs more, the bed or the extruder? A: The bed. Q: What causes the more massive axis to skip steps? A: Too high acceleration and/or jerk settings. Q: How do you stop the Y axis from skipping steps? A: Turn down the acceleration and/or jerkby Rein_Aurre - Printing
That was at 150mm/s travel speed and 60mm/s print speed. The speed doesn't really seem to affect it.by Rein_Aurre - Printing
There is one major difference with my problem: It doesn't seem to happen unless the hot end is traversing a gap either between parts or between sections of a part. I've attached an example. EDIT: added another example.by Rein_Aurre - Printing
I'm having an issue very similar to this on my CoreXY. I know it isn't the voltage of the drivers since when the motors are engaged I can't actually force the motor to move by hand without risking damaging my printer in some way. I know it isn't the pulleys shifting on the stepper motors as I've triple-checked their set screws. The only thing left that makes sense to me is the belt. Mine doesby Rein_Aurre - Printing
Thanks for the help everyone. I was successfully able to take my dremel and with a thin engraving bit cut through the plastic and mark a small thin trench between all 3 jumpers. I did several test prints and everything is working wonderfully. My printer is now happily printing away on the last hour of a 3 hour print with no issues.by Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteenif Maybe your board has the jumpers shorted on the PCB, see here. So I just checked the resistance between the pins on the jumpers and they were all 0, so they've definitely been bypassed. How can I safely undo that?by Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteo_lampe How on earth can you overheat the z-drivers? Especially with a leadscrew design you can reduce stepper current for sure and be good. -Olaf Overheating the z-driver seems to be a pretty common problem though? Especially if you're using auto bed leveling (like I am) which keeps both the motors moving constantly. It would definitely be less of an issue if I were using an ACME leadscby Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteenif Maybe your board has the jumpers shorted on the PCB, see here. Woah, I'd never considered that they would do that. Doesn't make a lot of sense to bypass the jumpers but still include the headers. I will investigate this in the morning and see if that is indeed the case here.by Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
I use a dual-motor leadscrew setup for the z-axis on my CoreXY printer. The original stepper driver would occasionally overheat even with active cooling so I decided to make the jump to the DRV8825. Given that this is a regular leadscrew I don't need the 1/32 microstepping since that causes the steps/mm to be around 5000 for the z-axis. I tried pulling one of the jumpers under that driver and notby Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
A bit of background info: I started with a QUBD 2-UP and used it to make a new printer (a SmartRap Core) with an e3d v6 in a bowden setup. It worked great, save for the fact that I made it large enough that a 2nd z-axis was required, and I was able to get a handful of smaller prints out of it (due to the sagging build platform). Rather than mess with getting a 2nd Z motor working on the Printrby Rein_Aurre - RAMPS Electronics
Looking good! Question for you: The y-slide parts you have there, did you modify them at all from the ones available on thingiverse? If not, how well did the LM8UU bearings fit in it? I just printed them out last night and they seem like they'll be too small for the bearings.by Rein_Aurre - Smart_Rap