Quotecozmicray Does a PLA cooler fan really work -- or prevent layer to layer adhesion? to responde to this let me ask other question: can you tell me a good pla printer that does not have one or more cooling pla fan? If is planning to build a printer for pla is need to plan the space for one or more fans. Quotecozmicray A good hotend that doesn't jam ----- Holy Grail of FFF printing E3D v6 lby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
using one block or two i pretty sure it will give a print quality identical. By default if you use good quality rails the rigidity of only one block will guaranty very high rigidity for a 3d printer. Not only rigidity is important, there are other aspect of a printer that affect a great dead on the final print quality: -To avoid artifact problems on the print and fast print speed you need to havby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
For the size of the printer i think this design is a little too much... nema23 for a 3d printer? The move the carriage you do not need so much force. Is look like more you are building a cnc and not a 3d printer. Having rigidity on the frame e moving mechanism is important, but do not Over engineer everything. For example, each of your Y rails was 2 blocks. one block or two block you get the saby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Hi, The z banding you have look like to have a regular undulation, is the same was the pitch of the z screws? If yes them is probably a problem with some of the ball screw is not rotating correctly. One suggestion that maybe solve this, you could design and print 3 pieces that secure the top of each ball screw to the main structure.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDavid J Changing to linear rails is the ultimate solution, and Filipe's new machine looks very good, but the level of expense goes up a lot - it's not just the rails themselves, it's all the other things that go with them, such as sturdier frames, supports, and so on. I was an expensive upgrade, the total cost was between 400€ to 500€. I reduced some of the expense buying the HiWin linear raby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Not sure if you are interested in a printer it use linear rail, they are expensive. But still trying to explain what I was telling in the last post, check the design of the next printer: The printer use lots of ideas similar to the upgrade i have done, but a LOT better looking. - it was top metal plate that was the linear rails. is laser cut, so the installation is easy and precise. - the x aby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Hi Amoniak , Bronze bushings look like to be a good option, but i will be necessary to modify the printed parts because they do not have the same dimension of the LM8UU. Produce all the parts in aluminum was Zelogik was done it will be very difficult, time consuming and can be expensive. only do this if you have access to the necessary machine and the skills. If you are considering to build aby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Hi David, great improvement you have made, the noise are gone? One problem i have when i was using printed part is with the lock of the two 8mm rodds where the carriage move. When i was adding more tension on the belt i noticed the plastic pieces over time stopped to secure correctly the rods. Was result is was not possible to add to much tension or else the rods will simply move. One improvemby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
reduced the jerk from 20 to 15 and done a more serious print of a buda, 0.2mm, 80mm/s, no infill and 3 layer wall Well.. for me this printer is finished, need to start tinking about the next one..by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
To try to solve the Z bending problem I have replace the 8mm threaded Z screw with a 12mm ball screw that is fixed in the main structure on top and bellow. done some new small upgrades: -added big glass 320x290mm to the bed, the printing using paint tape was not good enough for me -added the new E3D heating block and is new sock. -added a new fan that blow directly to the nozzle, it work great wiby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
pretty sure is the linear bearing. You can upgrade with better bearing and rods too. They are rods better that orthers. you can shop goods bearings and rodds where: you can go with igus bearings too, they have one made of plastic and with a metal case, this remove the problem you have before. If you are going to replace the rods i have a two pretty good upgrade you can do: 1- change the two Yby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
this value are low. Increase the voltage of both up to 1v, then test is solved to problem. If it was solved this way you need then to ajust better the voltage decreasing slowlly until the carriage stop to move corretly again, then finally add 0.2V. Normally adding only 0.1V in the final step will be enouth, but your carriage is still empty, so go with 0.2V PS: if you do not have a not condutor sby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
looks simple and clean, good design. with a 1.9degree motor and 1/32 steppers the step per mm is +/- 190. Start with this value and make the 10mm test to get a more precise value.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
checked again the video and i think is not wiring problem where you could have not connect corrtly the 2 coils of each motor. if is was this the motor will simply not turn. on the video both motors turn on oposite side, but the turn is not smooth. - you can check the voltage of both steepers, must be somewhere 0.7v to 1v - on the belt twist the teeths of each belt do not touchs? post a better viby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
hi, I think the problem is because you have one of the motors not corretly connected. Put a photo where i is possible to see the color cable of the motor connecting in the ramps board. after solving this issue you need to add more tension on the belts.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Hi, you can upload the video on youtube and them post the link here. For images you have a option to put some photos in this forum, check the "attach a file" option. If you upload a video it will be a lot more easy to help you. but normally the type of problem you have can be many things, where a possible list of the cause: -low voltage on the steppers -bad build, the carriage need to mutch forby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
forget to indicate, but there are a left and rigt side depending of the type of mk8 you have. I think if you mirror the object will work to print the other one.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
done a new merge and uploaded again, check if is ok know?by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
hi David, In the file two_hotend.123dx it shows 2 parts to locate the coupler, and I was just wondering why? I forget to merge it, is only one part. i have uploaded this part with the name "top.stl" on thingiverse i have try before the dual direct setup and the carriage turn to be very heavy, it will be necessary to slow down the print speed or else you get artefact. I later decided to removeby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
this is a big z banding issue, is related with a not linear movement on the z axis post some photos and give details of the z axis of your printer to have a better idea of your problem.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
"see-saw" mechanism is a very good option, the new version of the ultimaker 3 use this mechanism too. But is not so easy to implements this type of mechanism and i never see any option on firmware to support this. I still think the use of only one hotend with saveral extruders is the best option, already see several new 3d printer using this with pretty good results. The only downside i can seeby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
I done in the past a dual extruder setup and it was very difficult to get good prints, main problems you will get are: - First you need to get the second hotend in the exact same Z level. if not, the lower nozzle will bump on the print making marks or even can remove the print from the bed. - The second hotend not used will give oozing that will mark all the print. you can reduce the temperatureby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Quoteappjaws1 QuotefilipeCampos Hi, This problem is because you over extruding on the corner, tacking to much time to change direction. Simply increase the value of Jerk XY moves to speed up the direction change, but not too much or your printer can start shack big time or even missing step Have increased X and Y jerk speed to 700 from 600 and looking at the object I am printing at the moment,by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Hi, This problem is because you over extruding on the corner, tacking to mutch time to change direction. Simply increase the value of Jerk XY moves to speed up the direction change, but not too much or your printer can start shack big time or even missing stepby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
I using too linear rail 15mm and i see some resonance but only in low speed print, normally i get them on the first layer (printing at 30mm/s). Use of damper remove some resonance but also add elasticity on the belts that can affect the precision, so.. not sure if is a good option to use them. One way to reduce these vibrations and increase precision is using steppers that was high steeping valuby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Quoteunromeo21 QuotefilipeCampos Cantilevers is the easy solution for small bed, but the bed structure need to be rigid. I using a cantilevers 200x200, supported by 2 x 12mm rods and one 8mm lead screw with 2mm pitch, using this setup for almost 1 year and it works with no issue. I know upgrading to a 310x290 with 2 x 16mm rods and 8mm lead screw with 1.5mm pitch, but this was not tested and canby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Your bed is quite heavy. The screw (and motor bearings) are the only thing that supports that weight. The screw wants to bow because of all that weight. Here's an experiment- move the Z motor up close to the top of the machine and try another print. The Z screw length between the bed and motor will be shorter and less likely to bow. If the print comes out better, youby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
after lots of prints and made some modifications i reduced the problem but no fixed, the z banding is still visible and is turning to be my major problem in term of print quality. trying to build a printer with a very good print quality and my priority is to udentifty what causing the problem and fix it. I think the problem is related with the height of the table is to high (+/- 2kg). The Mena17by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Removed the top mount and the z banding was reduced a lot, but is still where, barley noticeable. Fun fact my first test i done like the 20mm cube i do not have this top mount installed yet and noticed zero z banding. Any way where some photos of the benchy print i have done, one of the photos was the old benchy to be morr easy to compare. The benchy test after removed the top mount The righby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMikk36 You could try removing the top mount of the leadscrew. good idea, i will give a try. maybe losing up the screw solve this.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines