Quoteasbo Quoterobkar Quoteasbo Quotelkcl is that from mutley3d.com? The stuff Mutley sells is called PrintBite and works better than PEI. I had planned to buy a PEI sheet for the bed, but now I actually bought a piece of this Printbite instead. I hope it is good! Since I am using dc42s ir sensor it is also convienient that the Printbite is black and do not need any painting, unlike PEI. In termby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quoteasbo Quotelkcl is that from mutley3d.com? The stuff Mutley sells is called PrintBite and works better than PEI. I had planned to buy a PEI sheet for the bed, but now I actually bought a piece of this Printbite instead. I hope it is good! Since I am using dc42s ir sensor it is also convienient that the Printbite is black and do not need any painting, unlike PEI. In terms of price the differeby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist You've given up a lot of rigidity in the frame by eliminating the top front frame member. I would put it back in there and add a Zmax switch, then use the custom gcode in slic3r to send the bed to Zmax when a print is finished. It will leave the bed at the bottom of the machine where you can easily remove the print and will leave the extruder wide open for cleaning, etcby robkar - CoreXY Machines
QuoteFA-MAS Perfect, what you've built is exactly what I have in the drawings for my machine, as far as the CoreXY part goes (mostly), I actually had a question about the linear rail for the X, as the carriage gets towards the middle, does the weight flex it down at all? I haven't really done proper measurements of deflection yet, but I really do not believe it will be a problem. I have usedby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl Quoterobkar Quote This exact belt path will not work though, one of the screws will rotate the wrong direction Quote ehn? how the heck did you manage to do that?! Look at the CAD screenshot of the (pretty stupid) Z-axis concept. Imagine the motor rotates clockwise, follow the belt and look at how the three screws will rotate. Quote Based on my initial tests of my current setup tby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl Quoterobkar Well, If you look around I am pretty sure you will find many coreXY printers where the belts are crossed like that. I have it like that on my current setup, look at the photographs in my previous posts.The belts are rotated 180 degrees and there is no problem at all.. I want to keep them on the same level. yeah i can see why keeping the belts on the same level is an advantby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl ooo whoawhoawhoa, hangonhangon, ok hmmm that attachment might not come through let me do a link instead ok look there right at the back, in the middle, the red and the blue belt CROSS and occupy the SAME SPACE. that's not gonna work what you'll need to do is to lift either the entire x or the entire y - don't be tempted to like do a half-way house by dropping or raising *some*by robkar - CoreXY Machines
Wow lkcl, what a response! Where to start? Quotelkcl can i suggest alfa-tech3d.com TR8 lead screws then put a GT2-50 on them (i 3d-printed one, grab the source here ) and used a GT2-16, then a 900mm closed loop. also, i know people like doing the mid-supported printbed idea, but it's nowhere near as good as adding that one extra lead screw. the analysis is as follows: you need to ensure six thiby robkar - CoreXY Machines
The build is proceeding pretty slow, which is OK for me. Anyhow, I built the frame, designed an effector, hooked everything up and it almost immediately worked alright. Apart from the Z-bed probe, I had positioned it too far away from the bed (and without adjustment possibilities, stupid). As you can see I changed my mind on several aspects compared to my initial plan. First I opted for direby robkar - CoreXY Machines
QuoteEdvardas Why not put Z-axis smooth rods further away from each other to the corners of the bed? That should make it even more stable. I think I am correct now, but my engineering guts tell me that the load (ie. the lead screw) should be placed as close to the rail as possible in order to avoid binding. In theory my Z-system is already overconstrained..by robkar - CoreXY Machines
QuoteThistleDown Forgive me if this is a dumb idea, but would a lead screw driven scissor lift make a good Z-axis? Assuming four linear guides for stability, and the scissor under the center of the platform. It would be more weight, and possibly more work in basic construction than a belt system, but it would center the drive force under the center of the plate instead of at the edge. Would the sby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Long time no see, but I managed to play around with this thing over the weekend. It is now moving! YOUTUBE From my last post I have changed the Z-axis, from two linear guides into four smooth rods and metal housed bearings. My design with the linear guides consisted of too much plastic, so there was noticeable flex going on. The smooth rods seem fine though, I just had to de-couple the nuts soby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Not much activity here lately! I have been busy with life you know, but this weekend I got some time off to actually do something useful While I have been not building anything, a friend of mine has machined the few aluminum parts I'll need for my build (X gantry + bed) and most of what I have ordered from China has arrived. I have now done a test and assembled the frame, the X-Y rails and theby robkar - CoreXY Machines
The project drawer is not empty any more! I get parts from China delivered every day now, it's like christmas I did also finally make up my mind regarding electronics and ordered a Duet board + a 24V power supply! One (stupid) question: If not using a bed leveling sensor on the effector, where should I put my Z end stop? What is common sense? At min position (max print height)? I would haveby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist For the X axis (on which the extruder carriage rides), I would also use a single linear guide instead of a pair of round rails. It will be lower mass, more compact, and the bearings are as near perfect as you can get. The rails are rectangular, typically wider than they are tall when the bearing block rides on the top surface, so if you have a rail that is 12 x 8 mm, tuby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Here are two pictures of the motion system. Nothing fancy, it is a standard CoreXY setup with crossing belts etc. I have an aluminum "arm" connecting the Y-axis carriages on which I mount the X-axis rail. Haven't really made up my mind whether it is a good solution yet as it doesn't provide much rigidity in Z, but it makes sure that the Y carriages do not get pulled together by the belt drive. Itby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Autoleveling/zeroing was developed as a fix for poor printer construction in machines that were unable to maintain the settings from one print to the next (why else would anyone have bothered?). Instead of addressing the actual problem, someone thought it would be a good idea to apply a band-aid in the form of autoleveling because a $5 sensor is cheaper than building theby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Let's review some high-school level geometry... A line is defined by 2 points. Add a third point, and you specify a plane. What does adding a fourth point do? I'll tell you. When you try to "level" a bed (a plane, or at least, it is supposed to be a plane) using four screws, turning one screw causes that corner to lift up or go down. The diagonally opposite corner wby robkar - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos about the bowden extruder, i have used one at first and spend several weeks to try to get to work without retrations problems, the bowden ptfe tube was 50cm. at the end i was using retration value that reduced the problem but never complety solved. Changed to an direct one and never have any retration problem. somes get good result with bowden, but not in my case. And to be honby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Another thing I am not completely sure on is the heated bed setup. I think I'll use aluminum extrusions as a frame to which I can bolt my Z axis carriages. My first idea was to use a custom made 5mm aluminum sheet on top, with a silicone heater glued to the bottom of it. Leveling would be done as usual, 4 screws with springs in each corner. I did a fast structural analysis of it, the deflection fby robkar - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDalius98 You probably meant that it's three points that define a plane (well, at least that is the correct answer), and I can understand the doubts you're having - I am concerned about my design as well. I would be glad to comment anything about the three screw solution, but unfortunately I am not that far in the build process. And it seems that the pillow block bearings I've ordered for theby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Hi! I am in the process of building a CoreXY printer and thought I might get some feedback here! I have previously designed and built a delta printer ( LINK) which prints really well. However, I now need (want) a bigger build volume. I started to investigate what it would take to enlarge the delta, but in order to achieve at least a 300x300mm build size the machine will be pretty tall. That, inby robkar - CoreXY Machines
Hey. I just uploaded a new effector design that might be something for you? Moving from magnetic joints due to reliability, I wanted an effector for a E3DV6 using quieter 40mm fans for both cooling the part and the heat sink of the hot end. Note that the shroud directs half the air flow onto the heat sink, and the other half down on the printed part. The joints are also positioned pretty low,by robkar - Delta Machines