I like the idea of 12mm rods. Just checking, these are the right sizes for the larger 2020 CoreXY: 2020 Extrusion lengths 4 x 445 mm (Frame, vertical) 4 x 380 mm (Frame, X Axis) 2 x 465 mm (Frame, Diagonal) 2 x 340 mm (Frame, Y Axis top) 2 x 300 mm (Frame, Y Axis bottom) 2 x 235 mm (Bed, Z Axis) 2 x 147mm (Bed ties) If so, I've got an order to place. Jeffby Canadian Geek - CoreXY Machines
Hi Ax, I'm getting ready to start building one of these. Just want to make sure I have the most current parts list before I go out to get the 2020 cut. Can you point me in the right direction. Thanks, Jeff oops, sorry, for the larger 200x200x280.by Canadian Geek - CoreXY Machines
Does someone have a drawing of how to hook up an SSR-25DD relay to the heat bed and the reprap board? I'm not electrically inclined (even if I fly electric RC planes). A hand drawn picture will do. Even on a napkin. Thanks in advance, Jeff Nevermind. I found what I was looking for. Amazing what a google search can do.by Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteuberjay Quoteuberjay Well, I'm back to a Thermal Runaway again. Thought I had that licked... per Ax's recommendation I increased the thickness of the wire from the supply to the control board. Still need to do so for the bed, but I was getting some good prints. Now this... on a tiny 10 minute job. Any ideas? I know... replace the bed wires... is it really that obvious a fix? I'm jusby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteuberjay QuoteAx No, just the power wires.. the thermistor wires do not carry much current at all. As for buying a $300 printer, the old adage apples. You get what you pay for. Thanks... again on the wires/confirmation. Yeah, I get the cheap printer thing. But I don't agree with vendors that sell it as a package that should work and, well, it doesn't. Also, it hits hard here as that $300by Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx So, quick update, I have the Marlin 1.1 firmware for the Large bed with auto-levelling dead on now. Also for those of you with Auto Levelling, you don't need to use the springs so you can clamp the bed down tight, if you saw my earlier video, I just had it bolted off. I've now created this. Print 4, bolt your bed off and you'll find Auto levelling will work a lot better. What sensor areby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Quotermrf QuoteAx Just a quick one, Misumi EU is based in Frankfurt. So you can actually order direct. I basically did that for 2020s. Did you buy through company? Misumi EU seem only to work with companies. Ah yeah, that's a point, I'm self employed and have a UK Limited Company, didn't even think of that, it's just automatic when buying printing stuff to put it on the Business. If yby Canadian Geek - CoreXY Machines
I'm really surprised that no-one has built a DIY 3D printer where the table is totally stationary like my CNC router. (or if they have, I just haven't seen it). Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Glad you got it fixed. The 4th printer is on the way now and it ain't a Migbot. Hop over to the CoreXY section and look for the Fusebox thread Interesting. I've got quite a few of the parts already so I'll be keeping an eye on this project. Now to just source 1515 or 2020 here in Canada. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCanadian Geek OK, I've got a strange one. I can't print from the printer using USB (but I know why, wait for it), but I can print from an SD card. This part had me baffled at first until I looked at the temperatures being reported via the LCD and what is being told to the computer. There is a 10° difference between what is on the LCD and what the computer thinks the temperature is. For eby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, I've got a strange one. I can't print from the printer using USB (but I know why, wait for it), but I can print from an SD card. This part had me baffled at first until I looked at the temperatures being reported via the LCD and what is being told to the computer. There is a 10° difference between what is on the LCD and what the computer thinks the temperature is. For example, I set the bby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey Ax, I've got a couple of questions. Do you have the large bed? If so, what size it it? And one last question/favor, could you measure your unit from the front cross beam (the one with the y-axis stepper attached to it) to the back cross beam. I'm curious as to the length of your machine as I'm sure I could add a longer bed to mine without changing anything but the bed (and of course all tby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Ok, Marlin 1.1 firmware is up at (note URL change) with the exception of the Small Bed with auto level, this may take a while as I need to wait for someone to get their probe in. Caveats - The Large Bed Auto-Level (and potentially the Large Bed no Auto Level as it's derived from this) will not print centrally. I've Duct Taped it so it basically probes correctly for my glass plates, if yoby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Ok, Marlin 1.1 firmware is up at (note URL change) with the exception of the Small Bed with auto level, this may take a while as I need to wait for someone to get their probe in. Caveats - The Large Bed Auto-Level (and potentially the Large Bed no Auto Level as it's derived from this) will not print centrally. I've Duct Taped it so it basically probes correctly for my glass plates, if yoby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 actually..... here is a picture of the prototype Hi Wes, Is that new X carrage up on Thingiverse yet? I'm always interested in upgrades to my unit. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Have a super awesome, totally professional, messy bench, super shaky camera guide on tightening the Belts on a Migbot. xD I have one of those x-axis belt tighteners from Thingiverse but I like how you tighten that axis better. I may revert and tighten the X-axis belt your way. What surprises me is, I haven't seen anyone invent a way to use a spring (other then those close line pin sby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
I couldn't find the Migbot/Electron drawings exactly. But if you google for "laser cut prusa i3 frame", you will find a lot of drawings in various formats (eps, dxf, pdf) that are very close to our units. These drawings might get you started. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's a picture of my (Migbot) Electron Prusa i3 with the dragchains attached. You can see the all the wires from the extruder encased in one chain and if you look closely, you will see the second dragchain under the plates for the Y axis and heater wires. A spare bit of the chain is coiled up on the bench. My whole unit is bolted down to the white melamine to prevent the unit from twisting eby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
I just wanted to pass on a little tip for those in North America (I don't know if this vehicle is sold elsewhere - let me know). Go to your local auto wrecking yard and find any Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth van. In the lower track for the rear sliding doors is a wire/cable chain of the exact size we need for our printers. I yanked out two (one from each side) but you probably only need one. Cost mby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Canadian Geek - aye the PCB heaters are under the ally plates. The heat transfers fine without an issue, and the Blue-haired guy is me.. Cool. I was watching while waiting for one of my own prints and this guy with blue hair kept popping in and out of the picture. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey Ax, Are your 3D printer beds heated? If so, where is the heater located? Under the aluminium plates? Jeff p.s. Who's the person with the blue hair? :-)by Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Also, If you lot get bored and want to stare at printers or see what I'm printing you can check my Printers out at There's currently a couple of enclosures going, which are tests of a design I put together yesterday and the plastic parts for my CoreXY project. Yes, they're pink, deal with it. LOL, I have IP cameras facing mine also. I only have one printer right now. I bolted it downby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Ax, I'm using your firmware. Very cool. I love the screens. One problem I'm having is on my Electron i3, 1 click (when rotating the dial) equals 2 screens. It's driving me nuts. What is the setting in configuration.h to fix this. Thanks in advance, Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
I've got what may be a really stupid question but here goes. If you use a glass plate, does it have to be placed against the heating plate or can, (or should) there be a gap? There, I've done it. I've posted my stupid question. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWes78 Anyone gave thought about putting this on the under side of the bed? Maybe 2 or 3 layers I actually use that tape on the whole underside of my 2mm glass bed. It works like a charm. Remembering of course that you have to readjust the extruder gap. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCrackinX Well I have been working on my rework for well over a month now and think I have it pretty good. Everything is solid, I have it bridging really well at 30mm, haven't tested much more than that but I think it will do double that fine. I will post a link to my STLs here but it is also in the migbot wiki if you need it in the future without digging through here. DISCLAIMER: I can notby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
I know this is an old thread but this should still be useful. Sayal Electronics 1040 Fountain St N, Cambridge, ON N3E 1A3 now carries filament. A bit more expensive than ordering online but useful if you need something NOW. Check their web page: Jeffby Canadian Geek - Canada Waterloo RUG
I have the same kit although I didn't have any of the trouble you are having. Most of the info you are looking for is in this forum: The Migbot is the same printer, different name. Hope this helps. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 It will be easier to use the following . The Migbot extruder frame is not wide enough for the thumb depression to fit. I ordered the positive direction short and had to grind about 3/8" off for it to fit. It is very hard to depress because you have to press on the top of the tension screw - very fatiguing for the finger. Also this will not fit the holes in the bottom of the Migbot exby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quick question. How do you make a part solid. In other words, I don't want any of the part to be hollow. Everything I print has a honeycomb center. I have some parts I would like to be stronger. Jeffby Canadian Geek - Prusa i3 and variants