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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: Laser shielding material for low powered diode, enclosure tips... - 7 years ago
So you're saying the best way would be to filter and then went it outside, right? While I'm not too concerned about neighbors, wenting outside has some difficulties too. Especially in the winter. Ugh... should have figured all of this out before buying the laser, but I really wanted to try it out I remember seeing your setup posted somewhere, Viktor. I believe you said that you filter and wentby Dalius98 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Laser shielding material for low powered diode, enclosure tips... - 7 years ago
I've been reading a lot about ventilation/filtering and been led to believe that filtering will be difficult and costly with all the HEPA and Carbon filters (plus replacements) and that the best option is to just vent it out the window... However, most of the info I've found was about high powered CO2 lasers cutting nasty stuff like MDF/Acrilyc. Since I only have this small diode, I probably won'by Dalius98 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Laser shielding material for low powered diode, enclosure tips... - 7 years ago
Thank you, Viktor. Have you tested any other materials/manufacturers? Would be good to know if absorption(?) differs depending on the manufacturer for the same color plastics... What about recommended thickness? And one more thing... can anyone comment on light transmission values? What would be a good number so I wouldn't need to put my face right in front of the sheet to see what's going on?by Dalius98 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Laser shielding material for low powered diode, enclosure tips... - 7 years ago
Hello. I have ordered a ~600mW 405nm laser to play around with. Plan is to mount it on my CoreXY and "engrave" PCBs for etching. While I have also ordered a set of goggles to go along with it, I don't think I'd want to wear them all the time while working around the machine, plus I can't guarantee that someone won't come around unprepared. That's why I would like to enclose the printer with soby Dalius98 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Fan connector? - 7 years ago
The fans I have bought from China, usually come with JST XH 2pin connectors. But I don't think there's a standard that all manufacturers follow, and so you might want to compare yours against some photos before ordering Another quite common connector is JST PH series, but I don't think these are used for fans...by Dalius98 - General
Re: My 350x350mm CoreXY design - 7 years ago
I got myself the new Duet Wifi after I fried my Smoothieboard (stupid mistake I made, put me off from this project for a while)... As for the Z axis, I have figured out the endstop switch mounting, just have to implement it. For now I'm manually setting Z height before each print, but it's a bit fiddly to say the least. One of the things I'll change whenever I have the chance, is upgrade theseby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: My 350x350mm CoreXY design - 7 years ago
I printed an actual thing (for the first time) today - time to update this thread... I've re-started working on the printer back in September, took me a while to get to this stage - but it's still far from being finished. Anyway, I'd thought I will post some pictures, ask some questions, someone will help me out with the calibration, right? So, could anyone share some good calibration/troubleshoby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: My heated bed tried to self destruct. - 7 years ago
Well in my case, I am using a 220V AC 800W heater, which came with ~30cm long leads and I need some way of extending them. So far I was under the impression that these screw terminals are a really good solution... guess not...by Dalius98 - General
Re: My heated bed tried to self destruct. - 7 years ago
Quotetmorris9 Bad connections cause resistance which causes heat then that causes worse connection which is more resistance and thus more heat. So this is caused by the connection starting to be bad and it snow balls from there. If you are going to use those screw terminals be sure to check them for tightness every once in awhile. A little loos or a little corrosion and this is what you end up wiby Dalius98 - General
Re: Choosing a Crimping Tool? - 8 years ago
QuoteLykle I am using the Engineer crimpers and am perfectly happy with them. Lykle QuoteWurstnase Engineer PA-09 I love this tool! Ok, a question for Engineer users: Did you need to use the smallest size "crimping die" (the one labeled 1.0 on PA-09) at any time? Trying to decide between PA-09 and PA-21...by Dalius98 - Experimental and Hobby
Re: Choosing a Crimping Tool? - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 Unless you intent to crimp several thousand terminals, you shouldn't need replacement dies. Oh, by replacement I meant different type of dies, for different connectors. Sorry for the confusion.by Dalius98 - Experimental and Hobby
Re: Choosing a Crimping Tool? - 8 years ago
I appreciate the comments, however currently I have a different approach in mind - I've heard good things about Engineer PA-09 and I am thinking of buying those (or PA-21) plus a general no-name self-adjusting crimper for ferrules. The Hilitchi stuff looks like all the other Chinese crimpers though - is it really any good/different? As for HT-225D's, I've seen people recommending these on otherby Dalius98 - Experimental and Hobby
Choosing a Crimping Tool? - 8 years ago
Hello. Could anyone recommend me a decent crimping tool? I need one to crimp Molex KK pins (Open Barrel Un-insulated Crimps?), but an option with changeable jaws in order to crimp other types of connectors would be perfect. I hear ratchet type tools are preferred? Looking for something in the 20-50€ range, but any tips are welcome - maybe they will help someone else. Any comments about Chineseby Dalius98 - Experimental and Hobby
Re: Preferred Z Axis Style? - 8 years ago
QuoteMatthewHall How do you think using just three leadscrews and no smooth rods would work? Badly Even if they are really straight, you won't be able to match the precision provided by linear rails/rods... Keep in mind I am no engineer, but I'm fairly certain that this would end badly for multiple reasons. If you want to reduce costs and/or have a small buildplate, cantilevered design might bby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Preferred Z Axis Style? - 8 years ago
QuoteMatthewHall Thanks dalius, how much did the whole z assembly cost? Well, it will depend on the length... I've used three 500mm/12mm rods (~8€ ea); three 500mm TR10x2 leadscrews (had to buy 2m length screw and cut as needed ~13€); 3x LMF12LUU bearings for 4$ ea... I'm also using Delrin nuts to try and minimize the wear on the leadscrews... those cost me 20$ for a pack of three... Then thereby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Preferred Z Axis Style? - 8 years ago
QuoteMatthewHall Are you using any linear motion components like smooth rods or hiwins? Or is it just leadscrews? Oh, I do use smooth rods tooby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Preferred Z Axis Style? - 8 years ago
I am using three screws connected with a belt (powered by one motor). I've chosen 2mm pitch/lead screws, so I could be using full (or half) steps to move Z and still get reasonable layer heights. I don't think microstepping would be able to provide accurate heights alone... Z speeds are quite low with this setup, but it's not like you need them to be fast...by Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Trying to buy a cast aluminium plate - 8 years ago
There's a fellow repraper named "Gonzohs" selling cast+milled alu plates with optional PEI coating in the German part of the forums. Although meant for German users, I bought a 380x380 plate from him, with shipping to Lithuania. Might want to email him link to his thread:by Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: Pulley Spacers - 8 years ago
I have a bunch of salvaged telescopic antennas just for this purpose. There's a good selection of diameters too...by Dalius98 - Mechanics
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
QuoteMutley3D Ali tooling plate is possibly a bit overkill, some views may differ. It is a large mass to get heated and may struggle to get to temp unless using powerful PSU and heater. If it is on a cart or moving bed type printer, its quite a mass to be moving. PrintBite will be as flat as the material it is adhered to, and meets a number of industrial spec requirements. Its thickness is veryby Dalius98 - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
I see the conversation "detoured" a bit on to PEI vs Printbite, but unfortunately, it ended before I got the answers I was looking for I will be buying an aluminum tooling plate for my printbed, and the seller is offering a PEI coating for additional 30Eur... Now I am wondering, what are thickness tolerances of the Printbite and the adhesive used? By using a tooling plate, I expect to get the bby Dalius98 - General
Re: Measurements of Misumi 2020 and Hiwin MGN12 - 8 years ago
Hiwin offers CAD models of their products, well, at least the linear rails... Downloading them requires login, which I don't have, but there was a model on sketchup warehouse, which might have been made by converting official hiwin.dxf's to .skp's... Can't vouch for these, but it's something... Edit No.3 - mistakenly said misumi, when meant Hiwinby Dalius98 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: CoreXY belt / idler juddering issue (belt teeth against bearings) - 8 years ago
I am using toothed idler pulleys (6mm GT2). At first I made my own from miniature flanged bearings and 8mm bore pulleys, but there's a better solution - Aliexpress or ebay. Just search for GT2 idler pulley, and there will be some with teeth If that twist is there to reduce teeth contact with the bearings, you could just replace all those bearings with toothed idlers, maybe get rid of the compliby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: MGN12 from Alliexpress - 8 years ago
Sometimes these Chinese rails come filled with some sort of "preservative" grease, to prevent them from rusting in transit or whatever. This grease is waaay too thick to be used in linear rails and should be replaced with proper one. But seeing that you took out the bearings and measured them, I suppose you would have seen if the grease was a problem The other thing that could help the carriagesby Dalius98 - Mechanics
Re: Another CoreXY Build - 8 years ago
That's a really cool looking build. I'm just wondering what are all those potentiometers for? The anti-backlash solution look nice too, but aren't you worried about increased wear on the screws with what looks to be metal nuts? I'm thinking to replace mine with delrin or printed ones, but if you've been using them for a year with no consequences, maybe I'm overthinking it...by Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: One less plastic part - 8 years ago
Are you noticing any increase in sound/volume, now that there is a direct metal to metal contact?by Dalius98 - General
Re: Wood-based frames: are there processes that can make wood (composites) suitable for 3D printer frames? - 8 years ago
QuoteSrek Multiple laminated sheets with impregnation should serve you well. No idea how it is called in english, but this stuff here is pretty much immune to anything but a saw. That's laminated plywood (sometimes called Phenolic Plywood) - stuff is pretty common in Europe, but I hear its hard to find (and expensive) in USA. Anyway, it's just plywood that uses moisture resistant glue + top coby Dalius98 - General
Re: US parts? - 8 years ago
It's definitely possible to build one without using printed parts, but I guess it all comes down to what tools/skillset you have and how much time/money you are willing to spend... I'm actually in the process of building one myself, and although there were moments when I wish I had access to 3D printed parts, I think replacing them with aluminum adds to overall sturdiness of the machine... Can'tby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: My 350x350mm CoreXY design - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I would probably space the two Y axis linear guides (and Z axis rails or guide) by putting a spacer (wood or metal rod cut to exact size) between them. Thanks for the idea - I did the initial setup by using spacers placed between the frame sides and the rod holders, and didn't realize I could just as easily use a spacer between the rods as for the two Y axis rails, theyby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines
Re: My 350x350mm CoreXY design - 8 years ago
So, after a few weeks of not doing anything on this project, I've decided it's time to quit stalling. Spent the last evening disassembling and reassembling the frame, hopefully I'll be able to align the linear rails better this time. Anyway, I have a question I would like to ask: What would be the best way to align the Z axis rods square to the other axis (and parallel to themselves)? I guessby Dalius98 - CoreXY Machines