My PET-G prints are always flawless. Actually I make more mistakes with ABS and PLA. Here's the details: - filament is Devil Design - print speed max is 100mm/sec - cooling is always max after the first layer - the bed is PrintBite (search this forum) - bed temperature is 65-70 degrees C - hotend temperature is 240 degrees Cby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
In 3D printing the mistakes are cheap, unless you have $$$ printer or $$$ materials (i.e no Statasys). Milling and lathing are expensive as I've recently discovered: money for tools, money for materials, lots of non-idle time spent and a huge mess to clean up.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Around 1900 €, but I think it is much cheaper in US (I think the equivalent is Grizzly 10x22). And you get more toys with it in the smaller priceby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
QuoteQdeathstar my mill is sitting at my office waiting to be brought home... then, back to the 3d printer.... Hopefully i get the mill up this weekend I was faster this yearby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
disable "detect thing walls". you may get better results.by sigxcpu - Printing
Your Y rods are not parallel?by sigxcpu - Reprappers
I really don't understand what you don't understand. A delta printer has no "right angle" requirements, but it has "parallel" axis belt to axis guid requirements. OP issue is elongation at the edge of the printed model, caused by belt not being parallel to the guide. "Right angle" is a specific case for a squared AB axes (XY, XZ or YZ) in some specific printer configurations (cartesian, H-Bot,by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl Quotesigxcpu This is a perfectly valid configuration. All the red stuff needs to be parallel. All the blue stuff needs to be parallel. No straight angle anywhere. a straight angle would be 180 degrees. a right angle is defined as 90 degrees. you mean no right-angles, not "no straight angles". English is not my primary language, so take that as "right", not "straight". although technby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist That's a valid configuration only if the firmware knows that the axes are not square and maps the object coordinates which were created under the assumption of square axes, to the unsquare axes of the printer. I can't think of any reason why anyone would want to configure a printer this way, unless they are trying to fit it into a triangular space. The point was to provby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
This is a perfectly valid configuration. All the red stuff needs to be parallel. All the blue stuff needs to be parallel. No straight angle anywhere. You are confusing XY squareness, which is a valid requirement for a standard firmware configuration, but can be corrected in firmware with the actual motion mechanisms. They are not related, as you can see in the above picture. The only biggest rby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
@the_digital_dentist: why don't use use "Prusa edition"? It has lots of improvements (performance & stability) vs "original" Slic3r.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl dd is correct but the terminology (use of the word "parallel") is not entirely clear (sorry, dd, had to point that out). basically the belts as they come off the idlers on the main part of the "H" ABSOLUTELY MUST be at right-angles. also, as they go on they ALSO MUST BE AT RIGHT-ANGLES. you can see a CORRECT implementation at the corexy.com website: No. They must be parallel to theby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
How can be speed related to "travelling across the floor"? Travel = force, force = mass * acceleration, speed is nowhere.by sigxcpu - Extruded Aluminum Frames
TMC2100 on Replicape works beautifully.by sigxcpu - General
If you really need a slow speed add a reduction (easiest is a small closed loop belt with 2 pulley sizes).by sigxcpu - Reprappers
This is not a CoreXY thing, but Marlin (which you didn't specify). Disable PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE in configuration.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Quotekentmcn Why the system would add (or subtract) to both X and Y though, seems odd. Because it is a H-bot and one motor moves at 45/135 degrees?by sigxcpu - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Some test video of a dry run at 150 mm/sec. Acceleration is 1000 mm/s/s. I used a large enough object that the thing will actually hit 150 mm/sec when running the infill at 45 and 135 degrees driven by a single motor. I set all speeds in the slicer, including small perimeters, to 150 mm/sec. The Z axis is operating during all this, too. It lifts on retract and of couby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
I will, soon. It is hard to see things in the current "setup" (read tons of things around it make it hard to distinguish the printer in the pictures). I'm waiting for the acrylic panels and I'll some when I finish the electronics and wire routing (to be able to pick the printer from the current position).by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Then do a variation of it instead of compromising.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
2) Cut them a bit longer, make a pack where you want the same length, align one end and cut them all at the same time at the other end. Do not use printed corners. If extrusion is thick enough you don't need brackets either. I just finished a CoreXY build and all the frame joins (2040) are done like this: The frame is sturdy enough and I expect it to be even better when I'll put the walls. Pby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
They are not parallel to the movement axis.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
I went with SN04 things (inductive I think) on all axes. They are cheap, work reliably on 5V (despite what people say) easy to fix on extrusion and metal targets for them are easy to manufacture from all kinds of scrap sheet.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Mine is now on the left part of the X beam, fixed on X, moving in Y and it is ... ugly, at least. I will do the other way around and move the sensor on the carriage and the metal target on the X beam. I already have 3 hoses going to the carriage (one for cables, 2 for air) so it is easier to add another cable there.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Perfect. 2040 it is or a steel bar for the horizontal beam.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Don't put too much hope in PEI. I've swapped it with PrintBite because of too much adhesion (broke a chip from the PEI sheet when removing a part). Printbite is perfect for ABS. Good adhesion when hot, part pops when cooled. PLA is so so, PET-G so-so in removabilityby sigxcpu - Printing
My single PC test (genuine Lexan sheet 1mm thick) was a failure. It adheres perfectly, the print becomes part of the bed I glue PEI with Tesa 4965, lots and lots of small sheets. Never had an issue (max bed size was 300x300mm) Now I've got rid of PEI and I'm using PrintBite. The ABS parts popping from the bed when it cools down is priceless.by sigxcpu - Mechanics
On processor is easy: 8 bit - less step pulses per second => less speed. 32 bit more pps => more speed. Get a MKS SBASE, not a MKS GEN. Revolution = rotation so the M8 has 1.25mm per rotation/revolution.by sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
Yes, a cheaper option would be to use a stronger beam. The good thing is that it doesn't have to be extrusion. It can be anything. Now that I've got myself a nice BF20L milling machine, I need jobs to do on it, so I'll do my beam supports in metal first (ABS cubes now, I'm using 12x3 trapezoidal screws) then I'll find a better beam. Yes, please, do tell me if your setup dances up-down at the frby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines
As I told you before, I've stolen some (lots?) ideas from your design. I am already printing because I am the other way around. Want to see something working fast, to get boost for fixing details. The single horizontal beam for the bed, 2020 in my case, allows a little torsion, enough to allow the bed (320x320) to catch vibration from the fast moving head (3000 accel, 40 jerk, speeds up to 100mmby sigxcpu - CoreXY Machines