You shouldn't need to do a bunch of Z movements per layer. It works fine with the bed sitting still during the whole layer print.by vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
Quotedrmaestro Quotevpt5566 Quotedrmaestro Switching to silent stepstick is the best thing to do, as it practically silences the steppers. I can only hear the power supply fan when my printer is working. However they are more difficult to install due to their configurable nature and also need good cooling (I had to revert back on the Z axis to 4988 as it was getting too hot but I've ordered 2 80by vpt5566 - General
Quotedrmaestro Switching to silent stepstick is the best thing to do, as it practically silences the steppers. I can only hear the power supply fan when my printer is working. However they are more difficult to install due to their configurable nature and also need good cooling (I had to revert back on the Z axis to 4988 as it was getting too hot but I've ordered 2 80 mm fans, so I'll have betterby vpt5566 - General
It looks good so far, you could probably add it to the 'made' tab on thingiverse so others see it, other people might try the three point leveling maybeby vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor I have great consideration for D-bot and its creator (and the C-bot and all the predecessors) but why plastic brackets in the corners. Lots of repraps use plastic frame parts. A reprap printer is supposed to be mostly printable I believe. I still think it's a good design and I don't mind the plastic corners as long as everything bolts together tight and the rails are cut well.by vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Length-wise they should be cut by the vendor you have purchased it from. Hacksaw will not do a clean square cut. Maybe a miter saw could do the job but I wouldn't trust that. Maybe others have actual experience cutting aluminum with the miter saw and might say otherwise. I would be interested in DIY-able ways to cut square/flush aluminum tube/extrusion. The railing called out forby vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteEdvardas WD-40 works great for aluminum tapping and I was surprised that online machinists were recommending it as pretty much everyone else on the net says it is useless for many other things. Thanks for the tip, any good advice for cutting aluminum rails in addition to thread tapping them? Is a hacksaw clean enoughby vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
Quoteappjaws1 I am in the process of printing all the parts needed and have purchased all of the other items. I will be using an Ormerod designed extruder and plan to have 3 extruders and a diamond hotend in the future. I will build everything first with a single extruder and then see how best to mount the extra extruders and perhaps a facility to hold 3 reels of filament. One problem I am havinby vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
Quotecozmicray How about a belt drive Z axis? Something like this using one motor Have to look at belt forces and whatnot to balance out pull and tug? Cheaper than leadscrews? May have higher resolution? Build the prototype and show us if it works well!by vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
I'm curious if anyone has built or is maybe in the process of building this DIY kit here: I'm thinking about trying it but I'm curious about the process of buying all parts separately vs getting a kit. I would also need to figure out a way to cut the rails which are aluminum, other than that I believe I have the tools needed. Apparently this printer is a version of one called a Cbot and it loby vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
Quoteappjaws1 Thanks for all the replies, I have decided to build a D-bot and am in the process of ordering parts. Let us know how it goes, I'm curious for this printer how easy it is to get all of the different parts vs buying one kitby vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines
You could make one of these It seems pretty popular and I think you could remix it to take a different hot endby vpt5566 - CoreXY Machines