Try downloading a newer Marlin file that has the safety features and use the newer Arduino program to compile it. Using the old software with the old firmware just sounds bad all around.by PDBeal - General
Are you using the same cable from your original Ender-3 with the other motors? It could be a bad crimp in the connector that not letting it run another motor, or a loose connector.by PDBeal - Printing
I print (Hatchbox and eSun) PLA and (eSun) PLA+ on PEI without any issues. No lift, no bubbling, nice stuck parts. I generally run the heatbed at 65C for both PLA and PLA+. Nozzle for PLA is 190-200 and nozzle for PLA+ is 205. For PETG, this also works, but sometimes I need 70C for PETG on the heatbed and usually 235-245C for the nozzle. I don't print ABS anymore due to the smell/odor/particby PDBeal - Printing
If it only happens on large prints, you could be experiencing temp issues on the driver chip for a particular motor? Section_M305_Set_temperature_sensor_parameters QuoteSection_M305_Set_temperature_sensor_parameters - Channel 1000 is the on-chip microcontroller temperature sensor - Channel 1001 represents the temperature warning and overheat flags on the TMC2660, TMC2224 or other smart driversby PDBeal - Duet
Quotepvwebb Here's a link given me: If you read your link, they already do 3D printed crowns, but use special materials. FDM printers wouldn't be capable of this based on how they build layers. QuoteDental 3D printing has made creating crowns incredibly simple. The doctor scans the broken tooth and then uses software to create the model of the crown. They can create it in their office in lessby PDBeal - General
So I'm looking at designing a new part cooling for my hotend. But looking at this, it started me wonder. When designing a part cooling piece, what's more important? Air Pressure at the nozzle? Air Flow? Air Volume? I know the whole argument between a fan and a blower, and I'm already planning to use a blower. But I'm conflicted if I need to narrow the exit down, open the area on the nozzleby PDBeal - General
Quotedlc60 Thanks, It works fine - Now to figure out why the Maestro board does not wait for the bed to heat up before it starts heating the hot end and starting the print... DLC Your probably using M140 instead of M190 to set your bed temperatures. M140 won't wait for it to be at temp, M190 will.by PDBeal - Duet
Quotethe_digital_dentist OK, you normally print the first layer slower than the others. But you're having a problem with the print letting go when you use that steel nozzle. So try reducing the speed (even more) in order to get that first layer to stick throughout the print. My speeds are only at 80mm/s maximum with external walls at 40mm/s. My first layer is always static at 10mm/s. I found itby PDBeal - General
The prints have no issues sticking to the bed, the problem is they are not staying stuck to the bed through the course of the print when using the wear resistant nozzle. First layer is always slow compared to the rest. It's warping which I've never had PLA or PLA+ warp until I started using this wear resistant nozzle.by PDBeal - General
So, I’ll comment more for anyone in the future who experiences this. I’ve replaced the MK8 Plated A2 Tool Steel Wear Resistant Nozzle with the standard nozzle that came with the all metal hot-end kit. I checked the Z offset since I changed nozzles, and then ran the same gcode file. Same material, same temperatures, same machine, same gcode, same bed surface, different nozzles and ended up withby PDBeal - General
Does anyone have any experiences with the MK8 Plated A2 Tool Steel Wear Resistance Nozzle? Good or bad? I've run into something rather strange and I'm wondering if this nozzle is causing my issues. I've just recently fitted an E3D Titan extruder and the Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality Printers. With this upgrade I also bought the MK8 Plated A2 Tool Steel Wear Resistance Nozzle tby PDBeal - General
You may be hitting some speed limit by the 8-bit processor (assuming that since you mentioned Repetier). Have you tried to print the entire cube at 30mm/s making the walls 15? Does it change if you do it at 20mm/s with walls at 10mm/s? I ran into speed issues with the 8-bit processors and my CoreXY system long ago. I replaced it with a 32-bit processor board and haven't looked back since. Foby PDBeal - Reprappers
While the printer is printing, prior to the failures, touch the motor for the extruder and see if its warm, too hot to touch, or burn your finger off hot. It's possible the stepper motor is getting too hot and that's what's causing it to stop feeding plastic?by PDBeal - Reprappers
Try printing slower. I'll regularly print PLA and PLA+ at 60-80mm/s, but when I print with PETG I get those strings at those speeds. It does better at 15-30mm/s.by PDBeal - Printing
If it helps, I also have an Ender-5 that I've put a Duet Maestro board on. I've not experienced what your talking about, so I've attached my configuration files if it helps. Looking at them, most of them are very close apart from your Endstops might be backwards unless you've physically relocated them. Most of my Ender-5 is stock apart from the Duet Maestro board and the BLTouch that I added.by PDBeal - Reprappers
In the US at least as per NFPA79 for Industrial Equipment, an Emergency Stop requires a few things including being reset before machinery can resume, power being removed as fast as possible from the machinery, and be initiated by a human action. This doesn't require any special safety rated device, although is generally used with such devices. And, of course this is pertinent to industrial machby PDBeal - Developers
Quotefoul_owl I need to shrink just the first layer by 0.3%. My print is coming out perfectly except the first layer bulges out a tiny tiny bit due to it being the first layer and getting compressed slightly on the glass. If the first layer is bulging out, wouldn't that be a sign your first layer may be too close to the bed? I may be wrong, but I don't see bulging on my first layer and don't haby PDBeal - Printing
I used the BLTouch V3.0 on my Ender-5 with the Creality board with the Marlin 1.1.x version. I had to add some additions to the Marlin source at the time because V3.0 wasn't working with the stock firmware, but once I added these additions it all worked out perfectly. I did run into something similar to what you describe, but in my case I sometimes had an air-bubble trapped between the magneticby PDBeal - General
What speed are you trying to print the infill at? I know by default, Cura prints the infill faster than the perimeters. Perhaps your reaching a speed too fast for the plastic to melt properly when it prints infill, but is fine on solid layers and perimeters. Try re-slice with a slower infill speed and see if your problem still exists.by PDBeal - Printing
You may want to investigate the following materials to see if any of them might be what you are looking for. All of these have come as samples from the Maker Box Explorer subscription and some of the packaging says weather resistance or resistant to water/moisture. toner-plastics.com ASA - Similar to ABS, but with better weather resistance. nilepolymers.com Fluorinar-C Kynar PVDF - Excellent tby PDBeal - General
From what I’ve read, the problems with Cura 4.0+ are related to your machine definitions not specifying max feed rates. The latest Cura just assumes the speed of light for some stupid reason and 8-bit boards seem to get confused with it. This is what I understand causes the machines to pause for a short time to figure out what to do before continuing. You can see this if you download the machineby PDBeal - Printing
One thing you might want to check, underneath the jumpers some of the Chinese ramps boards have a small trace connecting the pins without the jumper. I’ve seen it on two of my ramps boards from two different sources. You can’t see it unless you pry off that black plastic that’s usually underneath the jumper. Since you said your other drivers were stuck in in 1/32 mode it might explain some straby PDBeal - Hangprinter
So, looking at the laser, I took off the fan on the back and see this little circuit board. As far as I’ve tested, the laser module is on when it has 12V from the P+ and P- pins on the little circuit board. Any idea what C+ and C- would be used for? Any idea how to slide this out of the heat sink to see what else is on the control board? I’ve already tried to push it up from the lense side butby PDBeal - Laser Cutter Working Group
I hope you can opt out of that if you did buy one, if not it could be a big privacy issue in the US.by PDBeal - General
QuoteWesBrooks Tried the TL smoothers on the Duet 0.8.5. Effect was negligable on sound level. Perhaps the E3D hotend fan was just too noisey in comparison to the quietening! No effect on part quality for me. v0.6 and 0.8.5 are essentially the same board save the addition of an extra driver and hotend heater controller on the v0.8.5. It's the A4982 drivers with 16 microsteps which are noisey. Thaby PDBeal - General
I too recently purchased the Ender 5 although I specifically ordered it from the Chinese Creality site to make sure it was one of their machines and not a knockoff. To my surprise, it shipped from a warehouse in Kentucky. I did print a few additions for it for supporting the bed wiring, cover for the back side of the LCD, a boarder for the wiring hole in the case, and then I’ve added a BLTouchby PDBeal - General
Is it a BLTouch V3? If so, you’ll need some additional code added to Marlin to make it work. GitHub link has the required changes to make the V3 work with Marlin.by PDBeal - General
Right, so I recently purchased this 2.5W Laser from Amazon and have received it. When looking at it, it only has a plug and a small cooling fan on the back side of the laser module. It came with a 120V/12V wall plug to connect to the laser. Is it safe to assume that I could just wire this plug into the RAMPS 1.4 board as if it was a hotend heater, heatbed, or cooling fan and run PWM? I was soby PDBeal - Laser Cutter Working Group
Recently, I've seen a lot of posts to threads that have been 2+ years old. Has anyone considered auto-locking a thread after its been dormant 6-months to a year old so it can't be resurrected? It's rather annoying to look at some of these posts and realize its a few years old with a new post all the way at the bottom. Just thought I'd ask if it was ever looked into.by PDBeal - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Why do they have to be in ABS? Looking at the Thingiverse link, none of the 3 parts appear to be anywhere near any major sources of heat. And watching that Youtube video, I don't see how it actually holds the E3D V6 in place. Nothings wrapped around the hotend as far as I could tell. Is it solely held in place by the bowden tube?by PDBeal - Job Shop: I need stuff made!