Quotedekutree64 If the bed is heavy enough to backdrive ballscrews, it's heavy enough to preload leadscrews. Use 'em. They're cheap, compact, and work just as well in this case. 1mm or 2mm lead. You forgot to mention wobbly. For my other printer I need 450mm leadscrews TR8x2. For once they are hard to come by from a reputable source since the actual standard is either 4 start TR8 with 8mm lead orby Schild0r - Mechanics
Did not consider the phase, that might be true indeed. I use a magnetic mount (made sure the magnets can handle 120°C if I ever want to heat the build volume) I am not near my computer to take screenshots of the mounts but you can see them here: and download the step file of the assembly to take a closer look. I am using threaded steel balls that thread on M4 grub screws as magnet counterpartsby Schild0r - Mechanics
I am not planning on adding a power loss recovery feature to my printer. Power is so stable around here and I did not have an outage in years or even a decade and neither did I blow a fuse on that my printer runs so the brake would only be used for keeping the bed from falling when the printer is turned off. You said that once the falling bed gains some speed there is no braking happening anymoby Schild0r - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist While you're solving chicken and egg dilemmas, here's another one to think about: Why does shorting the coils brake the motor? When the bed drops the motor spins and generates EMF through the shorted coils that create a magnetic field that bucks the rotation of the motor and the dropping of the bed. But, if the motor isn't spinning, there's no current being generated andby Schild0r - Mechanics
QuoteVDX ... disconnecting the coils from the driver under load could/will wreck/burn the driver !! true that is something to consider but would this even be possible in my case? Since disconnection from the drivers will only happen if the PSU that runs the drivers is turned off. So disconnection only happens when there is no load (bc the PSU is off) <=> and load is only possible when theby Schild0r - Mechanics
So I am building a new printer with triple z motors and SFU1204 ballscrews for independent movement and true bed leveling. I recently noticed that my build plate may be a little bit heavy and fall when the steppers are powered off and I am now considering to implement some sort of braking mechanism, that brakes z movement once the 24V main power is cut (I still have 5V auxiliary power wired to tby Schild0r - Mechanics
Thanks, I will do thatby Schild0r - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hello there, I am coming from a Marlin background but plan to use RRF for my next build in conjunction with a Duet3. And since the Duet3 supports DotStar LED strips I was wondering if someone already took advantage of that and wrote a script that uses this as a Status LED (similar to Marlins Status LED using Neopixels). I don't have the hardware yet and haven't written any script for RRF yet butby Schild0r - Firmware - mainstream and related support
QuoteDust the endstop pins have external resistors on the pcb 10K pullup to 3.3v 1K in line to the processor Fairly sure that will break most things your trying to do with these IO pins when not used as inputs. Dang Is there some way to use these features anyway with this board then?by Schild0r - General
Hey it's me again I wanted to use the max_endstop pins on my SKR1.3 running Marlin 2.0 for the extruder_auto_fan and the case light/status LED feature like this Unfortunately this is not working I enabled the features #define NEOPIXEL_LED //MS #if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRBW // NEO_GRBW / NEO_GRB - four/three channel driver type (defined in Adafruit_NeoPixel.h)by Schild0r - General
okay found the flaw Bed thermistor was faulty and apparently the temps shown in the first seconds after bootup are not correctby Schild0r - General
QuoteDust also you could compare table values between versions (they look identical to me) Yep did that. They are the sameby Schild0r - General
Hey there, as the title says I recently switched my board to an SKR1.3 from an MKS Gen L On the MKS Gen L I used Marlin 1.1.9 On the SKR1.3 I am using Marlin 2.0 On both versions I had the temp sensors defined as #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 //Trianglelabs Thermistor Cartridge #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 5 //Trianglelabs Thermistor Cartridge #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0 #define TEMP_SEby Schild0r - General
QuoteSrek You will need to exchange all heating elements since they would havevt twice the power at 24v. Also all fans need 12 v and you would need to check if the leds can work with both voltages. It is not as easy as you might think. I think you misunderstood me. I already run 24V heater cartriges and heatbed I know that I would have to use 24V capable fans (yes they exist) Leds are running onby Schild0r - General
Hey there, I am currently using two power supplies in my printer 1. 12V 200W - for board (SKR1.3), 6x drivers (TMC2209), steppers (17HS4401S) and LEDs (which run on a buck converter 5V @5A max) 2. 24V 480W - for 2x40W heater cartrige and 360W silicone heater I now consider bringing the full machine to 24V I figured this should work, I'd just have to swap the 12 fams for 24V ones and get an neby Schild0r - General
Hey there again, I am currently experimenting with my second nozzle which has been unused since I finished my setup. I am using PrusaSlicer which has a setting to retract the inactive tool by a variable value. Unfortunately it will only do so on the first tool change but not on the beginning of a print which will cause the unused nozzle to droop until the first tool change is done. Has anyoneby Schild0r - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist So what's the default extrusion width, and why is that value the default? Good question. It looked like the only vectors that had the "default width" which I set to .48 were bridging ones. Anything else has distinct width settings Apparently there is already a feature request to let the width settings (percentage) be calculated over nozzle diameter which would make senby Schild0r - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I don't know why they use % in Slic3r. It makes no sense to me. I always enter a specific value so I know exactly what I'm going to get at a glance, without having to translate a percentage to a numerical value. Using % would be fine for me if it would be calculated over the default extrusion width...by Schild0r - General
Okay turns out I am an idiot who can't read the tooltips: As I watched the slice previews I saw that every vector for PrusaSlicer is in fact thinner. I set the default extrusion width to 0.48mm but every other extrusion width to something around 100% which is not calculated over the default extrusion width but somehow over layer height *facepalm* I think this will solve my problem otherwise I wby Schild0r - General
Hey there, I was just installing PrusaSlicer bacause I like the division of the print settings into "filament" "printer" and "print" and because you get finer settings I manually ported my print settings form S3D. Unfortunately the prints I get from PrusaSlicer look like garbage. I printed two Benchies one sliced by S3D (this one took 1h17min) and one by PrusaSlicer (3h2min) for comparison: Tby Schild0r - General
So I tested the Display on an MKS Gen L with Marlin 1.1.9 and it worked fine I also measured the duration of the whining noise (<1.5s) and then set the Delays to #define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_MS(1500) //Note: that is MS -> Milliseconds #define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_MS(1500) #define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_MS(1500) I also set it to every preset delay I could find in Marlin The LCD2004 makes thby Schild0r - General
QuoteDust 32bit boards talk to fast to some lcd controllers (not all GLCD's are equal) play with ST7920_DELAY_1 ST7920_DELAY_2 and ST7920_DELAY_3 add to configuration.h #define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(600) #define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(750) #define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(750) and up the numbers till it works Can you tell me what each value will do? I upped the values to #define ST79by Schild0r - General
Hey there I recently wanted to switch my LCD2004 for a LCD12864. But after swapping them and adjusting everything in Marlin I noticed that the buzzer is making quite an unpure noise which is not the same as the tone I got from the LCD2004 buzzer but more a squeaking (sounds just like coil whine from, a graphics card). Also the screen shows a weird image before displaying the Marlin bootlogo:by Schild0r - General
QuoteOhmarinus I don't see any pins labeled Rx or Tx on the board on any side: I am not sure either but in reference to the SKR1.3 pinout from above (my first post) there are pins stated for UART (top middle) I guessed they could be the ones below every driver... Like this: But in that case it could be that the 1K Resistor is already connected to the TX pin... this would not help me since I wby Schild0r - General
By the way I was wondering whether you could connect TMC2208 UART the "complicated" way to the SKR. I know on the SKR there are Jumpers for using UART which you can set if you have all the pins facing downward on the TMC2208. But since I used mine on the MKS Gen L before I have two pins soldered facing upwards to connect a RX and TX wire (the latter with the 1K Resistor) to it like this Can I jby Schild0r - General
Hey there, I am currently thinking of replacing my MKS Gen L with an SKR1.3 Board. Since I have a bigger CoreXY (300x300x350) machine and may want to use some higher print speeds I guess 32 bit is the way to go. Good thing is MKS Gen L and SKR 1.3 are the same fomat thus I can use the same mounting etc. Bad thing is I think the SKR 1.3 has less usable I/O Pins so I may have to scrap the filameby Schild0r - General
Hello Forum, I want to change the LCD on my 3D Printer. Currently I use one of the LCD2004 controllers with an integrated SD card slot that comes out to the side. But I want to use one of the full graphic ones with a LCD12864. I don't like the touchscreens because they lack of some settings I can control via the LCD But I also want to enclose the printer (at least partially) thus the SD card slby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
Update: tried it with another spare MKS Gen L with nothing but the driver and the tx/rx cables plugged in to the correct pins. Did not make a difference no matter if I try it with the pins that I assigned myself to TX/RX or if I try it with the ones that are the standard ones set by default marlin It will always just recognize the driver connected to the pins 44 (TX) and 66 (RX) BUT: If I use aby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
Thought of that too at first but i checked it and every wiring is the same. Also I don't think that is the problem because when I plug one driver of the other axis in the E1 socket and its TX and RX pins the same way, it will still be recognized as E1.by Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics
Hello there, today I changed my drivers from A4988 to TMC2208 (UART mode). I soldered the pads on the bottom of the driver boards together and made some wires for the serial connection As you can see the 1K resistor is soldered in line with the green wire thus the green wire should be TX. As mentioned here not all pins on the Mega2560 (I am using the MKS Gen L) are RX capable but this pinoutby Schild0r - RAMPS Electronics