The reason you are getting the Z wobblies as you go higher is because the lead screws are under compression and will bend as the height increases. They are too thin to support the weight of the bed. You have 2 in front, so they are doing a bit better, but the one in the back is carrying more weight, so it buckles more as height increases. You can do a few things to fix it : 1. Use lead screwsby xyze - Reprappers
My apologies. I caused some confusion. In my original post I used "pitch" where i should have used "lead" and vica versa. You really should first determine the amount of distance your bed is actually moving when you issue a move command. Which version of Marlin are you using? According to this article RAMPS-14-With-TMC2130-Stepper-Drivers you need Marlin bugfix-1.1.x for SPI configuration to wby xyze - Reprappers
The culprit is most likely the microstep settings on the TMC2130. Confirm that you have the jumpers set correctly for 1/16 microstepping and that the jumpers are properly seated. I'm assuming you are using jumpers and not SPI to set the microstep settings. What leadscrew are you using? Most 8mm diameter leadscrews from China have an 8mm pitch (2mm lead and 4 starts). 400 steps per unit is correcby xyze - Reprappers
The end script looks OK. M0, M1 or M600 commands will cause the behaviour you are seeing. Open your generated g-code file in a text editor and search for those commands. If those commands are not present in the gcode, then it's probably some setting in Repetier. I do not use Repetier, so cant help with that. You can try printing the same file from an SD card to see if the message appears at thby xyze - General
M203 sets max feedrate. So use the below G code to set the max Z feedrate to 5 mm/s M203 Z300 ; Set max Z feedrate to 5 mm/s General G-code reference : Reprap G-Code Marlin G-code reference : Marlin G-Codeby xyze - Mechanics
Quotedlc60 Oh, if anyone out there uses BuildTak, what do you do when removing a part pulls "dimples" in the surface? Is there any way to get it flat again or do I just have to pull it off and burn another $10 to replace it? Thanks, DLC Don't use BuildTak. I could not get a sheet of BuildTak to last for even one roll of filament without forming dimples on the surface. Buy a sheet of .75 mm (oby xyze - Reprappers
QuoteLudvig The, for me, curious thing is that if I fake the microsteppingin in Repetier (basically tells it to move the motor further to move a mm), the printing head maxes out. But if I only set the maximum speed, there seems to be a very distinkt 'lock' at 50mm/s (give or take some). I can set a lower value and that works. I have tried only with the graphical move commands in the Repetier sofby xyze - General
Quotelkcl so i have a suggestion: i actually really appreciate the focus that you have on detail, which i would otherwise miss (because i have a different kind of mind and focus). it is however a little early: i have a friend assembling one of these (as you can see from the build posts), he's a mechanical engineer just starting on the learning process about 3D printing. could you help him ouby xyze - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotelkcl the purpose of this exercise is to maximise units printed per hour per dollar, with this _particular_ design being focussed on minimising the cost of components (whereas the other printer i'm designing is focussed on higher quality parts - as opposed to lower priced parts - as a way to increase the target). if we're *right at the beginning* of that exercise, it's not really helpful toby xyze - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotelkcl Quotexyze Do you still have the gcode file that was used to print the 200 mm/s part in the video ? Should be easy to look at that file, no ? no of course not: it was weeks ago, and i really don't keep track of auto-generated file output (edit: attached typescript. it *might* be one of the 70 files in the v3.0 folder. but now that i think about it it might be in the v2.0 folder.) Thby xyze - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Do you still have the gcode file that was used to print the 200 mm/s part in the video ? Should be easy to look at that file, no ? All of the G1 ... F12000 lines listed above are not extruding any filament. Only the last 2 lines are extruding filament (while moving) and those are at 15 mm/s.by xyze - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Quotelkcl Quotexyze lkcl, I seriously doubt it was printing at anything near 200 mm/s. You really cannot print small objects that fast. that is correct: in a previous post we checked an acceleration graph and the maximum speed for the 4000mm/sec^2 setting used the speed it could hit within 20mm was more like 150. it's still a staggering achievement for something that costs so little money. Hby xyze - Extruded Aluminum Frames
lkcl, I don't believe your layout will work if you are really getting a mechanical advantage. From the black and tackle wiki page Block and Tackle. Take a look at the "Mechanical Advantage" section. "Ideal mechanical advantage correlates directly with velocity ratio. The velocity ratio of a tackle is the ratio between the velocity of the hauling line to that of the hauled load. A line with a meby xyze - Extruded Aluminum Frames
lkcl, I seriously doubt it was printing at anything near 200 mm/s. You really cannot print small objects that fast. One of the main problems when printing small objects is cooling. You cannot print a molten layer of plastic on top of another molten layer of plastic. The layer below has to cool enough so it can fully support the layer above or you will get a really bad surface finish. That is whby xyze - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Interesting that you had to set your B_SCALE hack value to 1.2 to get "almost" linear travel. That rules out microstepping as the culprit since the value would have to be a multiple of 2. It kinda sounds like you are using a 16 tooth pulley on 1 motor and a 20 tooth on the other. 20 / 16 = 1.25. That, or there's something really messed up in your belt path.by xyze - CoreXY Machines
If it's only happening on longer / larger prints, then my guess is that your stepper drivers or motors are overheating. Try putting a fan over the stepper drivers and / or reduce the current slightly. Check how hot your motors are getting during the longer prints. If they get really hot, then you have the current set too high for the motors.by xyze - Printing
I was not suggesting that you measure the bottom of the heat pad with the IR thermometer (although I can see that it could be interpreted that way). I was suggesting that you compare the reading of the thermistor with that of the thermometer to see the temperature difference between heat bed and heater. Using some black electrical tape (a decent sized patch) on top of the PEI sheet should give aby xyze - CoreXY Machines
I will most likely switch to PID / PWM. Bang-bang seems to be holding actual bed temp within 3 degrees and it's a little easier on the SSR, but the SSR is not getting warm so it should be able to handle a PWM signal OK. If you have an IR thermometer, you should measure the top of the bed while it's heating to see the difference between the bottom of the heat pad and the top of the heat bed. I usby xyze - CoreXY Machines
Takes about 4.5 minutes to reach 110 degrees on mine, measured at the top of the aluminium plate (technically the BuildTak sheet on top of the plate). If I do not have the thermistor in the plate, it takes less time for the heat pad to reach 110 degrees, but another 4-5 minutes for the aluminium to reach 105 degrees, so my wording was bad. What I meant to say was that it took another 4-5 minutesby xyze - CoreXY Machines
Hi Mark, Very nice printer and blog. You have clearly put a great deal of thought and effort into it. May I make two suggestions: 1. Consider bolting your printer to a wall. Your printer is very tall and the moving mass is at the top so no matter how stiff your printer frame is, it will sway during a print. That will definitely have a negative impact on tall skinny objects since the object wilby xyze - CoreXY Machines