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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: Auto leveling problem - 8 years ago
Let me clearify what I meant with "Not really the solution I was looking for": If you do not intend to help out with the question in mind then there is no need to post. Can the printer be used without the auto leveling? Yes. Do I want the autoleveling to work? Yes. This thread can be closed.by Jaran - CoreXY Machines
Re: Auto leveling problem - 8 years ago
Not really the solution I was looking for. I changed over to Marlin and got it all working now.by Jaran - CoreXY Machines
Auto leveling problem - 8 years ago
Hello there! I have recently built a HyperCube Evolution. So far everything is working as intended, except the auto leveling. Im using repetier firmware. The issue goes as following: I start off by using G28 X0 Y0. After homing the XY axis I send the G32 code. Upon this command the printer tried to move the XY axis in the negative(outside the heatbed). I have been all over the repetier firmwareby Jaran - CoreXY Machines
Re: XY axis not moving - 8 years ago
Im using eletronic sensors, optical. I removed the heatbed from the firmware and sat the extruder thermostat to fake 25c. So no errors under startup but the XY axis does not move. I removed all endstops and checked the states of the endstops. Without them plugged in xy min and max came out as L, but with them connected they say H. I have also connected the endstops in several ways without anyby Jaran - CoreXY Machines
XY axis not moving - 8 years ago
Hello there! I am currently building a HyperCube Evolution. So far I have all the mechanical parts done, aswell as most of the electronics. Im having issues getting the XY axis working. The Z axis works as intended. While trying to move the XY axis with any software it does not do anything at all. No sound of the motors going or anything. I have meassured the voltage on the motor drivers, aswellby Jaran - CoreXY Machines
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteobewan You probably damaged the track that feeds power to the FET gate pin. solder the 100k resistor from the gate leg too ground and allso scrape some of the feed track and conect a wire from the gate leg to the track, see attached pic. And now its working again, thank you!by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteobewan Yes you can solder to any part of the copper you marked in red, you can solder the other end of the resistor direct to the leg of the FET gate leg if its easier. I just tried it out at the spot I marked red, but it made no diffrence. The heatbed does still not turn on nor does the diode for the heatbed. Can't say I understand why Edit: Ill start looking into how I can edit the firmby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Got the resistor soldered on now, but the nothing happens while I try to turn the bed on. Can't say I understand the schematic fully. Do you know where the R32 component goes? Got a feeling I might have damaged the connection going to the R32 pins. Here are a few pictures of how it looks like now: Update: Managed to open a garber schema for the board after some fiddling around. To me it looksby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteobewan Fiddly lil buggers. Yep its just a 100k ohm resistor. Cheers! Ill pick one up tomorrow and hopefully I can get it soldered to the board. Can't see where it goes from R32 on the schematic I found.by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Surprise, surprise.... As I was soldering on the MOSFET with the new wires the little component on R32 came off. The one with "104" marked on it. Any idea what this part is called and if it is possible to buy a larger one to solder on, or am I at the point of buying a new board? Edit: Is that component simply a resistor? From a little research it seems that those 104 resistors are at 100k ohm.by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Good idea! Heading out tomorrow to buy a new soldering iron so could pick one up then. Thanks alot for the help!by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteobewan Hi, from the schematic. R2 is connected from Q1 gate to GND,' Aha, did not know there was one released! Will give this a shot now. Update: You guys are fantastic! Got it working now with wiring. Couldnt get the wire to stick that good with the soldering so the connections on the picture is pretty much just for testing. Will go buy some copper wire, assuming that will stick better.by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteobewan acording to the circuit, Q1 gate is connected to R32, 2 options . try scraping some of the white coating to see if you can uncover the broken track to connect too. or maybe solder a wire between Q1 gate and R32. as in the pict. Will give this a shot tomorrow. Did you get this information by looking at the picture or do you have a schema for the board? Any idea if it matters which sby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Indeed, its hard to see. Ill dismount the heatsink and post back with what I find. Thanks for your help so far! Edit: Here is the topside without the heatsink. Can't say I can see the track from here eitherby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteobewan Ok, so the pad on the bottom of the board is not needed for tha gate leg of the FET, the track the gate pin solders to is located on the top (component side) layer.hopefully you still have enough of this track left to solder too. Uh, I think I might have damaged it too much on top too. Can you spot it on the picture in the post above?by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
QuoteRoberts_Clif See the Other Mosfet the pin has a black boarder completely around it, The connection point is on the side of the board. Allow me to the other side of the board Sorry for my lack of understanding. I see the pad im supposed to solder it to, but its completely gone. I can't say I can spot it on the other side of the board either. Here is a picture of the other side:by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
I notcied. Take a look at my last post, I added a picture there with the solder removed. As you can see in the picture the little rectangle that I was supposed to solder it to got loose from the board due to the heat. I can't see any copper around it, so im not sure where to solder it now. Any tips?by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteobewan It looks like you have soldered the grid pin to ground, this is the right hand pin in your photo, it should be a small solder pad, not connected to the large mass. Thanks for the input! Can you spot the smaller pad on the picture? As far as I can see its only "the big field" around the left and right pins, and a thinner connection going to the hotbed. Edit: Ah, I belive I can see thby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Did an attempt to fix the connections to the MOSFET as I managed to destroy the rings on the board you are supposed to solder it to. Now it does not seem to power on the heatbed port at all. Here is a picture of how it looks like(Please look past the horrible soldering....): Have I even soldered the MOSFET onto the right parts of the board? In my eyes that seemed like the correct places. Amby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Quoteo_lampe You could check the 5V regulator onboard the GT2560. If it doesn't supply at least 4.7V your MOSFets won't switch fully ON. Thats where the big voltage drop comes from... The other MOSFets fully switch at 3.3V, so they stay much cooler Aha, that makes sense! Ill look into this. As im so impatient I think ill give it a go with the MOSFET I have on the Sanguino board. Ill post back hoby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
QuoteSteveRoy You could replace the MOSFET with a IRLB8743PBF I've used them on the cheaper China RAMPS boards in the past before I found a quality RAMPS Ordered a few so ill give it a shot. You think it will have a lower temp with that MOSFET? From the specs of the one I have and that one I would think the one currently on should have a lower temp, unless its defective.by Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants
Heatbed MOSFET gets way too hot - 8 years ago
Hello there! I own a Geeetech I3 Pro A with a GT2560 board. The MOSFET for the heatbed is getting way too hot on it and im looking for alternatives to fix it. Earlier I had a Sanguino board. With that board I used to print ABS with the heatbed on 100-110C. The MOSFET never got to the point where you couldnt put your finger on it. Now I have the GT2560 which is supposed to be better at cooling aby Jaran - Prusa i3 and variants