On my Tronxy I put the hot end into the middle first as that gets all of the belts positioned equally and then on the front belts I pluck them like a guitar. By ear you should be able to hear if there is much of a difference and if so tighten or loosen a tooth at a time untill they sound right. There is an app called spectroid that can be installed on a mobile phone if you want to have a look intby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
To Quote - I am quizzing the Exoslide guy about this, I am using Exoslides for my X and Y axis I have looked at the design of these on the tube over and over and I have to say I would be quite concerned about having so many rollers continually running along soft and sometimes dirty aluminium. I have seen some applications where running 3 rollers has worked better than 4 let alone 16 as shown in tby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
I am happy to say the 2mm glass worked very well and I now no longer have to fight to remove the print of my bed between prints. I have also tied my Z rods together which now means I no longer need to reset levels etc between prints. I have not seen any variation larger that .1mm when doing a auto bed level even after the machine has been off. I don't know how to make the pictures show up withinby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
I noticed that de42 had suggested dropping your z acceleration speed and am wondering if you had tried that and by how much? I had a bit of an issue with the Tronxy x5sa pro when I increased the overall acceleration speed (M8008) from 100 to 700 and the Jerk (M8007) from 20 to 10 and that resulted in a total stop when the head went from front left to rear right and the z started. The fix for thisby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
Not seeing in answers so I will throw in something that may be worth considering. I would try some aluminium L shape angle around the edge on the bottom bolted through to see if that helps to level it up better. It may also be worth putting angle along the bendy outer bars that the Z screws go through as well.Then I would get a glass top which would have to be only 2mm thick if you are using theby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
I believe that 2mm glass will work alright. You should be able to test it out by hand winding first. I'm still in a similar stage at present with a Tronxy but I am waiting on some bits to tie the Z's together before I see if my glass gets busted. Note: mostly I have seen that people here prefer the touch type sensors but that requires a few more changes on my set up so I will see how it goes firsby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
" It must be something to do with the belt load/tension or the belt path" That could well be but I would looking to make sure the bearings and shafts are also sliding and working together smoothly. With timber and how humidity affects it so easily I would be surprised if you could get any reliable results at all. The way the end grain runs and all sorts of issues could be there to find. With theby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMKSA QuoteRockyAussie Thanks for the quick and helpful reply dlc60 .... I am wondering if there is a good reason for the belt path to go in such a way as shown? I was about to put in 2 x 40 teeth belt pulleys tensioned at the mid front with a plain pulley at the front to tension the GT2 1220mm long belt. I have attached a picture to show what I mean. I hope to be able to lathe down into theby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for the quick and helpful reply dlc60 .... I am wondering if there is a good reason for the belt path to go in such a way as shown? I was about to put in 2 x 40 teeth belt pulleys tensioned at the mid front with a plain pulley at the front to tension the GT2 1220mm long belt. I have attached a picture to show what I mean. I hope to be able to lathe down into the smooth side of the 40 teethby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
Quotedlc60 Because of this I printed one of the Z bed sync projects for the TronXY XS5A Pro. It worked great, never had to re-level the two screws again. There are a few that work great. It picked one that had lots of adjustment room and no custom metal hardware. Then I ditched the bed auto-level hardware and disabled the auto-level code. Then I attached the extra endstop they gave me in theby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines
To quote the OP - " Problem is, this journey is in a hurry with the bad stuff happening all around and kinda need a quick solution to a Z bed that has to be leveled and bed-zeroed after practically every print, which is not terribly convenient..." This is my first post here and I am not much into the tecky stuff but if it helps.....I am the new owner of a TronxyXY X5SA Pro and have just finishedby RockyAussie - CoreXY Machines