Quoterudranshsinghmahra Hi i am facing a issue of extruder skipping steps, the printer prints the first layer great without any issue, starts to prints the second layer also without any issue but after some time is starts to skip steps, then I have to pause the print remove the filament, reinsert the filament, push and pull it slightly up and down into the hot end, and then resume it and then isby dustinoff - Printing
BABYSTEPPING_ALWAYS_AVAILABLE and MOVE_Z_WHEN_IDLE are incompatible. IE, you can't define both. BUT they seem to do different things. BABYSTEPPING_ALWAYS_AVAILABLE isn't really ALWAYS available. It is not available when idle after homing all. I haven't tried just MOVE_Z_WHEN_IDLE, but, per definition, I assume it is using BS to move Z when printer is idle after homing. I am only using BS for Zby dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
I love Sketchup. Other options have too much of a learning curve. It is true a lot of models on Thingiverse are broken. It isn't true that all of them are created in Sketchup. I just had to fix one that was not created in Sketchup. I modeled my whole printer in Sketchup. But alas, it won't print. But when I build it, it came together perfectly.by dustinoff - Slic3r
I think most slicers have options for retraction. I know Slic3r and Prusaslicer have it. If using that look under Printer Settings/Extruderby dustinoff - Slic3r
I have been having this problem for a while and I need to fix it. However, I have no idea what to fix so I am starting with Marlin. The other issues may be connected to one problem. If I do a pause during a print, it will become totally lost, banging into stops, etc. when I click resume. If I start another print after finishing one, it seems to get lost. It will do different things like think Zby dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
If I pause my printer, it executes the pause script, which is to go to park position. When I tell it to continue it is totally lost, bangs the stops and eventually does continue, but obviously not in the correct place. I have no idea even where to start to look. It has had this problem for a long time and thru many versions of Marlin. I never tried to figure it out because I never had a reason tby dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
Geometrically, 3 points define a plane, not 4. There is a basic physical problem with 4 point (4 dimension) leveling on a 3 dimension build plate. Picture this: (Using compass points for placement) points 1(N) is your ref point. Points 2(E), 3(W), and 4(S) are high. To adjust this you must simultaneously lower 2, 3, and 4, OR simultaneously raise 1 and lower 4. If you do not do it simultaneously,by dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
Be nice if people could communicate, Default extrusion width would suggest that, but first layer height sure does not. So, that should be FIRST LAYER WIDTH? So, if I have a first layer height in l&p of 0.2mm and a first layer "width" of 200% (default) in advanced what do I end up with?by dustinoff - Slic3r
Quotedlc60 I printed a 40mm cube, and it was square, and very close to 40mm on each axis. DLC measuring each side does not tell you it is square. You must measure the diagonals.by dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist If the frame is square it works fine. if your frame isn't, all bets are off. Well, isn't the question about how to determine squareness. The only way to do that, other than a lab instrument to measure 90°, is to measure the diagonals. But on printer hardware, measuring two diagonals accurately seems to me to be pretty difficult. The easiest thing one can do is to print aby dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist If the frame is square, and the Y axis rails are parallel to the frame rails, all you need is a ruler to check if the axes are square- move the X axis to one end of the Y axis and measure the distance from the end of the X axis to the edge of the frame at both ends of the X axis. if it's square the distances will be the same. Verify by printing a rectangular object and meby dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
Quotedlc60 Hmm. Those are good ideas. Figuring out if the entire rig is perfectly square is a challenge. I am a programmer, not an ME. What is a good way of determining this? Can it be done without a fancy tool? Thanks, DLC I am trying to figure out how mine can be anything but square and I can't see it. However, If it is far enough off it could cause binding in the movements. Also if youby dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
your endstop switches appear to be operating but can you raise the bed and trigger the Z_min endstop? If Z_min is open, it should rise until it closes. If you turn the Z motor by hand is it difficult to raise? Even if it were, because it is not tripping the Z_min endstop it should produce an error and stop. Somehow it thinks it is getting to Z0. Since you don't have option of setting a config filby dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
you figured it out. Dust never thought anyone would. It was suppose to be her secret.by dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
according to this from their website; ============== Before any manipulation, for your safety and that of your printer you must imperatively carry out a test of state of the sensor. With the command 'M119' we can know if the sensor is working properly. 'PIN down' , the command must return a status OPEN 'PIN up' , the command must return a state TRIGGERED If the state of the sensor is reversedby dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
did u resolve this?by dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
OK, it appears you have been caught by the lead screw monster. an 8x2 screw rises 8mm/rev each rev = 200 steps for a 1.8° stepper 32 microsteps == 6400 steps/rev 6400/8=800 steps/mm So your setting should be the same as mine == 800 You can download the file here = 2nd post on page. The E settings are best done empirically. I run mine 400mm and measure how much comes out then figure s/mmby dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
Do you have //#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS defined? If not, it never processes #define Y_DUAL_ENDSTOPSby dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
I can confirm it happened to me also I did not have #define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET defined and it is not in the latest update so it must have been a bug.by dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
The problem I am having is X and Y are running at 32 step But Z E0 and E1 are running at 8 Step How do you know this? I don't remember my h/w configuration, but I think all jumpers are out and the 8825 defaults to 32. Then you figure your s/mm and set that in your config. The numbers for Z E0 & E1 look a little high compared to mine. 1600 vs 800 and 1000 vs 176.by dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
I 2nd DD's comment. The one you see earlier is mine (I modeled it in Sketchup) built from Carl Feniak's post and modified to make narrower and use 3 screws. Now if I could only get PLA to stick to the PEI it would be near perfect. Take another look at it. Belts run mostly in the V channels and they are offset so they do not cross. not much hanging out of the frame except 2 motors and the electronby dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
QuoteM3D.11-09 What is the system in model 1, I want to do something like that, but I could not find it. Corexy seems to me inefficient. I can do it in Utimaker, but the system in model 1 makes more sense. Just curious as to what you think is inefficient about a coreXY.by dustinoff - CoreXY Machines
I don't think that is bad. My probe is a piezo probe activated by the nozzle and connected to the Z-min port. There are a few things in Marlin to configure for it, but it works well.by dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
The stepper motors will produce a "grinding" sound if they are: Jammed, as in hitting an endstop, bed, etc. trying to run too fast and slipping over the belt cogs. Since you are in the middle of the bed, running fwd or bwd should make no difference. Did you typo or are you actually sending G00 X90 command? It should be G0 X90 I think the key to this would be to determine what is causing the grby dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
The Z-OFFSET is not a function associated with bed leveling directly. It is to define the difference between where your endstop says Z0 is and where it actually is. This is typically used when using a bed leveling probe as an endstop also. I guess it might be used for a mechanical endstop but usually not.by dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin
If the pot is open, fiddling with it won't get you anywhere. I can't remember exactly, but I think a short on the pot is max contrast. try shorting it out.by dustinoff - Printing
I was fat and happy with a glass bed, except for what I thought might be a wavy surface. I also could not print a full bed ABS. So I updated to a MIC6 plate and PEI sheet. ABS works perfect, mostly. PTEG is a little troublesome, but PLA on PEI is almost impossible. It mostly wants to curl, or bubble. Trying to make the offset less creates a very rough surface. I have tried most everything, varyinby dustinoff - Printing
did ANYTHING change? If not, the first thing I would do is swap the cables to see if the symptoms change. If it is a bad connection that may fix it temporarily. The other issue might be the contrast adjustment. Mine was a little flaky and I had to change the pot to a fixed resistor.by dustinoff - Printing
Let me explain; when printing, if I want to adjust the fan or turn it on/off or kill the print, it will not respond to that command immediately. Often, I use emergency stop or hit reset for a simple kill. However, that leaves the head on the print for a time. Obviously, some commands get thru immediately like emergency stop and bed/hotend temp changes,. Fan and kill commands would be good also.by dustinoff - Firmware - Marlin