Okay, a small update on the machine, and a copy paste from the other topic in 'Printing issues': QuoteOhmarinus I think I've got it down almost completely now. In contrary to what seems to be popular belief, on my machine I can print perfectly with a bed temperature of 80ºC and a hotend temperature of 235ºC. I read everywhere people suggest an even higher bed temperature when experiencing warpiby Ohmarinus - General
I think I've got it down almost completely now. In contrary to what seems to be popular belief, on my machine I can print perfectly with a bed temperature of 80ºC and a hotend temperature of 235ºC. I read everywhere people suggest an even higher bed temperature when experiencing warping, but in my personal experience I experience no warping at all at 80ºC (first layer temp is 85ºC). Lowering theby Ohmarinus - Printing
12v fans die when connected up to 24v. You could try a voltage divider circuit or a buck converter but you will lose pwm capability unless you use a mosfet and a buck converter.by Ohmarinus - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, so, I've bought an i3 MK2S frame last year for a small price including the printed frame parts, sourced a heated bed from elsewhere and am planning to reuse my Ramps 1.4 and TMC2208 drivers to be used in this machine together with a full graphics display. Maybe eventually I'll upgrade it to an skr 1.4 but for now reusing the old electronics is the number one priority. I'm currently almosby Ohmarinus - Prusa i3 and variants
Right now I cannot view any model when logged in. I have to log out and only then can I view an object. Also, I am not able to add items to collections. It's all becoming so tedious.by Ohmarinus - General
The problem is not the design, the problem is inherent to an HBOT gantry. This is exactly why people moved on to using CoreXY setups which produce much less skewing of the axes. I suggest looking at CoreXY, which will work wonders with Hiwin rails.by Ohmarinus - Mechanics
I think I had this problem when my voltage regulator on the Mega was broken. It would work fine with USB but using SD card it would Halt. With my machine the reason was because of the servo I was using. The servo was putting too much strain on the voltage regulator. But I honestly don't have a clue what it could be. What kind of setup is the machine? It must have something to do with the LCD paneby Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
I don't think this is an SD problem. It's probably an instruction in the beginning of the gcode file causing the printer to halt. It can have many reasons. There might be something connected up wrongly or a short or an endstop not connected or something like a heating error. There can be many reasons. I would inspect the hardware first.by Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
#define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB 1020 // RAMPS 1.4 (Power outputs: Hotend, Fan, Bed) Should work indeed. How do you turn on the fan? Are you sure the polarity of the fan is correct?by Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
Update, I decided to remove the 1K resistor bridging the Sig and GND and now it works flawlessly. If anyone has any remarks about my design anyway, let me know if I can improve on this and if it's actually safe to do. I'm still new to electronics and despite triple/quadruple testing everything I'm never a 100% sure if it's a good idea I'm having.by Ohmarinus - Controllers
Okayyyy, so I thought, let's venture out into creating a PWM expander. This is how far I got, and it works great with an Arduino Uno: It's this schematic but with an IRLB8743: So I made a test setup and it works great, no voltage leaking through the little circuit and I can control the fan speed through PWM with an Arduino Uno, but when I connect it to my SKR 1.4 it doesn't work. I am usingby Ohmarinus - Controllers
I tried everything. ESP3D supports long filenames and it's a shortcoming of Marlin. Just bumping this post in hopes of someone knowing the solution. Meanwhile I'll try Redditby Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoberts_Clif QuoteOhmarinus a Mandalorian model that is 7cm tall (pretty small) with before and after vapor smoothing: This is what I need to learn more about vapor smoothing, I have read a few posts, articles on vapor smoothing just do not have an area to safely setup. Sample Video When vapor smoothing is there a layer height that works best or is it ok to 3D Print as say .15mm - .28mmby Ohmarinus - Printing
Please don't create multiple topics in different forums about the same subject Thank you.by Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
Just a follow up, of course I want to tune the fan that it cools down the ABS to an inbetween state. I think there is a nuance here, not simply full on or off. But from what I read it sounds like it could work so I'll give it a try soon. And to update on experimentation, switching filaments has helped a great deal, plus some more tuning and using a different extruder has helped a great deal as wby Ohmarinus - Printing
Was a good offer, ended up ordering two rolls of PETG and after testing, two more rolls in other colors. So far so good.by Ohmarinus - Commerciele aanbiedingen
I'm nearing some level of perfection, but I'm curious, is it common to have a fan blow on the ABS in an enclosed case? I have switched filaments and must say it has gotten a LOT better, also tuned some settings, but the temperature and bed temp are still mostly the same. Since the case is closed and the heated bed is quite good, I figure that having a fan blow on the filament just enough to get iby Ohmarinus - Printing
// The size of the print bed #define X_BED_SIZE 200 #define Y_BED_SIZE 200 // Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS - #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE #define Z_MAX_POSby Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
Can it be your hotend moves off of the bed when homing? Because then you need to set a homing offset in your firmware. The homing offset would be the distance from the endstop to when the hotend nozzle is above the bed and it needs to be a negative number in that case.by Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteMechaBits much better if you rotate the arrangement 90 degrees To make the middle axis shorter? Exactly what I thought. It cuts the deviation on the end point of the axis in half at least.by Ohmarinus - Mechanics
Read a lot about the mosfet's and decided to go with the IRLB8743! I'll update how it goes once it's installedby Ohmarinus - Reprappers
Okay, so the new hotend setup seems to work. I haven't been able to print everything I want, some parts still warp upwards due to the plastic staying too soft, but the problem with vase mode is now fixed. Sadly the interlayed adhesion isn't that great with this ABS and I'm running into the issue that the print sticks more to the bed than that the layers stick to each other. Perfect layers Sadlby Ohmarinus - General
Quoteguru_florida I didnt even realize in the youtube videos that there was no sock on your hotend! Yes, not having a sock was part of my issue a few months back. I didnt think it mattered *that* much but the hotend aluminum block was keeping the top of the part molten. I did a crappy job of wrapping mine in scraps of soft felt (whatever that stuff is called) and kapton and it looked like crap buby Ohmarinus - General
Quoteguru_florida Just from the videos that is a fast print speed! Since you did the extrusion calibration, I can only surmise it might be just layers printing too fast. Maybe try a larger part? You seem to be more knowledgeable in printing than I am so take any my advice with a grain of salt. I've been doing 3D printing since ~2014 but not consistently. I have more CNC background, and lots ofby Ohmarinus - General
QuoteCVRIV QuoteOhmarinus Quoteetfrench I use Fusion 360 to generate 3d models and produce the gcode. My CNC router runs LinuxCNC. It's a hard combination to beat for the price. I agree, my colleague uses Fusion360 for all his CAM work now and apparently it's a very good piece of software to master, also for modelling and other CAD work. I got Fusion 360 and it looks a bit like Google Sketchuby Ohmarinus - General
QuoteCVRIV Exactly. This is literally my first CNC cutter so i purposefully ran it really slow because I didn't know how the machine was going to behave. I ran it super slow and even though I thought I was only cutting a tiny bit, in height per pass, it was still a little bit to much. I'm trying to dial in the distance per revolution now. I hope there are good guides on the subject. We have oneby Ohmarinus - General
Looks like they also did a modification on the board with the soldered on wires. Looks kinda messy. Could is be that is the ROSC pin? I see five stepper drivers, with a little bit of luck there is an option to add a second hotend. In that case you can instead use the 2nd hotend thermistor connection to read the heated bed temp. I however have never attemped to do this so I'm curious if it's an eaby Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
I have had nothing but problems with an FSR and ditched it for a piezo sensor. Now I'm convinced that piezo sensors are among the best options for bed leveling. However, I also lean towards inductive probes still. The downside of a piezo sensor is that when the hotend is heating, filament will drip out, and a little bit of filament coming out of the nozzle can mess up a reading because the piezoby Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteCVRIV I got my Red 1419 CNC router cutting. Works great. I had an issue with the z-stepper it came with and the z-stepper replacement I purchased, but I fixed the replacement and its working great. Look at that. Now it's time to learn all about feedrates. I think you're going way too slow. Speeds are essentially the most important factor in tandem with depth steps. Too slow and everythingby Ohmarinus - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Your vapor smoothing looks like it's softening the bulk of the print. 5 minutes seems like a long time. In the rare event that I vapor smooth prints, I heat the acetone to about 100C in a big pot with a cover, then lower the print into the vapor for a few seconds- just long enough for the vapor to condense on the print surface, never more than 5 seconds, then pull it bby Ohmarinus - Printing