yeah it looks very compact and suitable for both direct and bowden style extruder/hotend set ups. i'm going to keep an eye on Ebay and see if i cant get one at a more affordable price. Cheersby bigfilsing - Singapore RUG
this looks interesting Ebay nozzelby bigfilsing - Singapore RUG
One thing I've found when exporting STL's from SU is that the export plug in doesn't work if you alter the file name at the time of export Normally i just export to desktop with whatever name SU generates then right click and rename later. I've also rearranged the items so they fit on a 200X 200mm print bed Attached STL I don't think it will print very well because of the slots in the attachmby bigfilsing - 3D Design tools
Keith I think the difference is CNC is a subtractive process whereas 3D printing is additive . That account for the Z axis I think you have your relative XYdirections the wrong way round but because you have flipped both X and Y your models turn out OK Tell me when you print does is print as per the orientation seen in the Cura "view" for example ?? Philby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The filament i was having trouble with was off ebay ...3D fabster... black 3mm . I also have a spool of white as well and it prints fine !!by bigfilsing - Reprappers
Cant remember off hand ( im not at my printer now ) but some of the slicer software has " extra length on restart" after a retract. Maybe its that ..assuming that a retract was performed prior to the hole shell being printed. Worth a look i guess.by bigfilsing - Reprappers
Glad to hear you've made progress. Be sure to level your bed when its at operating temp. Makes a big difference on my printer. I guess that's down to the glass as it distorts slightly when heated or maybe its due to the springs that support the bed. Either way setting it at temp is the only way i get decent reliable results. I'm using some different filament now and no such issues but glad i expby bigfilsing - Reprappers
ive made some progress today As discovered my problem filament is especially sensitive to temp. Couple of degrees make a big difference. in order to get this to work i have set the heated bed ever so slightly higher then i normally would and adjusted down the extruded amount The results were a considerable improvement. Seems this filament is sensitive to being scuffed by the extruder whereasby bigfilsing - Reprappers
Well in theory by the look of things ( ive never worked with Megatronics so no practical experience) it may be possible. You would definitely need to ensure your power supply can accommodate the additional load ! I think id still tend towards a separate board, perhaps triggered by your megatronics board or maybe even serial communication link. Having it separate will ensure no ill effects are pby bigfilsing - Reprappers
Yes depending on what control board you are using. If your not at all sure i would recommend going with a separate Arduino board and a shield ( expansion board(s)) to drive your heater. There's tons of Arduino tutorials and examples on the net You'd also need to know and understand the characteristics of the temp sensing and heating device(s) but those are usually well documented as well. Goodby bigfilsing - Reprappers
PID are standard terms in process control meaning Proportional,Integral & Derivative The settings determine how the controller deals with temperature variations during printing. Proportional refer to how the control system reacts , proportionally, to a temperature difference. If set at 100% a 1 % deviation of the temp will result in 1% more power to the heater. Set at 50% would result in 2%by bigfilsing - Reprappers
Dave you worry about air bubbles under present selotape >< Seriously i agree with Dave bit of care and a bit of practice make it a 5 min job . For the odd stubborn air bubble just use a pin to pop it and press down hard. Regarding the original topic. I have tried every combination of heat . speed and layer adjustment. While they obviously effect the issue i cant resolve it and am now suby bigfilsing - Reprappers
Just my 2 cents Gear wear can be down to all manner of things > misalignment, mesh between gears, accuracy of individual teeth, ovality of gear wheels etc etc. Of course our main aim is meshing of gears to reduce backlash ( on filament retraction). When gears are new its normal there will be a bit of wear for a while as they "wear in" to each other. I purposely print black gears so i can seeby bigfilsing - Reprappers
im still not having much luck and am more and more convinced its a filament issue. It seems to react with the heated bed somehow and almost "boils" on contact with the bed. Very strange. Im using glass with kapton tape ( works great with all my other filaments including ABS) Reducing flow seems to help but i guess that in fact it just makes the problem smaller, proportional to the amount of maby bigfilsing - Reprappers
i have the exact same problem as shown in your pic but only with 1 type of filament !! I am pretty sure from the pic you are experiencing the same issue I tried all kinds of temps and extruded amounts and heres what i found > i get the least problems on a highish nozzel temp and low bed temp ( 40C) i have my extruded amount ( flow in Cura) down at 90% I suggest you try to print again and whiby bigfilsing - Reprappers
or this kit elec kit and kit above S$ 250 Acrylic frame S$ 100.= Threaded & smooth 8 mm rods S$ 60.= Nuts / bolts washers S$ 20.= 12 X LM8UU bearings S$ 12.= 2 X Z axis couplingsby bigfilsing - Singapore RUG
Hi Guys After some of our discussions on whatsapp im posting what i think are the build costs for a basic Prusa Air 2 . Of course these are just budget indicators and not exact prices Acrylic frame S$ 100.= Threaded & smooth 8 mm rods S$ 60.= Nuts / bolts washers S$ 20.by bigfilsing - Singapore RUG
I think normally you'd want to start at 110 ( for good adhesion to the bed) then reduce to 90 or whatever you want. what are you trying to print with ABS or PLA ? In pronterface you can manually adjust the temp during the print Good luckby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
I dont think the overhang is that bad as the helix form supports each layer I would print real slow , maybe 10mm/s or lower even Would be a great test to see if you extruder amount /temp is correct good luckby bigfilsing - Printing
Hi all Id really appreciate your recommendations on X motor and idler ends Ive tried printing these but they need a lot of post printing work to remove the support and the screw/ nut trap on the bearing clamp is thin and week. Thanks Philby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
It always makes a difference when the get a complete cut sheet so they don't have to spend time arranging things ready for laser cutting. That's why its always good to ask the size of material sheet and laser cutter bed size. As you see a bit of time preparing at home can save dollars :-)by bigfilsing - Singapore RUG
Hi That's why most people go for aluminium pulleys and grind a flat area on the stepper motor drive shaft. Its probably the most advisable upgrade to your printer. Ive not heard of the drive cog actually running off the shaft as you describe but most X & Y "shift" print quality issues are down to loose drive cogs. Either way, if your stepper motor drive shafts dont have flats on them you nby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
ok what was the surprise? ..i told you they were good and now you can go get my mods off thingy verse spool holder Gen6d mounting bracket Z axis additional support and maybe a laser cut Y axis bedby bigfilsing - Singapore RUG
Ill see what the score is re access and let you know. With a bit of careful correspondence we should be able to at least visit the exhibition :-)by bigfilsing - Singapore RUG
Hi Certainly looks like your having trouble. Printing accurate gears isnt easy My first guess would be you're printing too fast and too hot although the base of the object looks reasonable. Remember with a small object the layers need time to cool before the next layer is printed. Using a fan will help Try to print the 0.5 thin wall object 0. 5 thin wall at 5 mm/s and post a picture of theby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
you could try printing slower ( allowing cool) or using a fan good luckby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
kokrange Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > the only CAN'T BE OPENED NO MATTER HOW HARD YOU > TRY dxf file is here: > https://github.com/reprappro/Mendel/tree/ma > ster/dxf, aluminium-heat-spreader.dxf, you > will find it. reprappro Mendel mono/tricolour > project Yup ...Autocadd2010 and Autocadd Mechanical desktop report is as being an invalid / iby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
proticus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Unfortunately the Air 2 does not use the same > frame as the i3. > > Ok, I've made some progress in converting the pdf > to a dxf, but I'm hung up on one little thing. > Maybe it's supposed to be this way, I don't even > know what's supposed to attach to it. It could > also be caused by the pdfby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics