next step will be to test your hot end see if it heats up and the temp readings are normal In pronterface look bottom left and set to 185 (PLA) then press set . Press check temp and "watch" so the active graph works. You should see your temp rise then remain stable at 185. Raise z axis by 10mm or so from your build platform The put some filament in the extuder and try to extude ( Extude 5 mmby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
just a quick look ( rushing off to work) shows your firmware as expecting a 10k resistance for your bed and a 100k resistance for your hot end ?? echo: M304 H0 B3480 R4700 T10000 M304 H1 B3960 R4700 T100000by bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
Well at least its printing ...some people cant even get that to work One thing I've learned ( from this forum) is to pick a test object and stick to it while trying to identify issues Many ( including me) use the 20mm hollow cube and /or the 0.5 mm thin wall 20mm hollow cube.stl 0.5 mm thin wall.stl These have the advantage that many of us have experience with them and can better judge pictuby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
you might want to read up on only using a layer height that coincides with whole steps. 1mm = 2560 steps 0.3 mm = 768 steps 0.325 = 832 steps 0.33 = 844.8<< so if ( for whatever reason) you change your Z steps ..remember to chose a layer height that "works" with your Z steps good luckby bigfilsing - Printing
thats what happens when you read a post ..wait to reply and the poster edits it :-) So did it help or make any difference at all ?? I remember a few weeks back i was printing some 50 mm dia thin walled (1.5 mm) pipe and was getting problems every 10th or so layer where the layer wasn't bonding to the previous layer well. Making sure i set my layer thickness to a "whole number" of Z steps helpby bigfilsing - Printing
did you even look at the blog link ???? Click the link and scroll down and look for the section "Accuracy" Also there's a post in this forum called "layer height based on Z axis steps"by bigfilsing - Printing
> > Are the motors programmed to go only one direction > if the end-stops are not plugged in? > > Charlie At startup / boot the firmware only allows motion towards the end stop until the end stop has been detected for the first time. This tells the firm where where it's 0 position is and is to prevent you driving the axis out of its range (away from the end stop) And to simulatby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
make sure your layer height coincides with your Z steps see > look under > Accuracy made a big difference to my prints Good luckby bigfilsing - Printing
one thing i came across recently was the Z axis calibration and particularly that your layer height has to be set at a value that your Z steps can handle = a whole number Check out > look for the section accuracy you may also want to watch the temp of your first layer(s) . Looks a little hot Good luckby bigfilsing - Printing
yes i believe so. To be honest other than changing the Marlin config.h file and uploading it to my Gen6d board im a little out of my knowledge depth on additional variables. Should be easy to try out thou Hopefully a more knowledgeable friend will kick in with some advice. I doubt your the first to try this so there has to be a way Cheersby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Often thought about converting my reprap to do CNC milling but never got round to it. The only thing i recall is that Skeinforge has settings for CNC milling. I was put off by all the settings when it comes to 3D printing but i distinctly remember seeing it while delving into it . Might have been when i was looking at Sfact as a simplified front end for Skeinforge Worth taking a look I don't thby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi There's plenty on thingyverse..quick search will work Main choices are zip tie or clamp type 3 or 4 LM8 linear bearings plenty with fan options Personally i prefer the 4 bearing /clamp type but that means buying some M3 nuts and screws I have no idea if its actually a lot better than the zip tie types just kinda "feels" better Good luckby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
bit late on the scene i guess but here goes Solid works can "save as" an STL file so can autodesk inventor Sketchup has a free import / export plugin ive used all 3 of the above without problems with the exception of the sketchup exporter doesn't like it when you change the save as name leave that alone when exporting and you,re fine ( you can always change its name later no problem. Goodby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
yup but me in the wow camp as well ...top stuffby bigfilsing - Look what I made!
i strongly recommend not to twist the belts ever. I have yet to see a belt that is made to work that way the re enforcement is bonded to only work for the teeth facing the pivot point. By running the belt with its back to the bearing/ idler you are effectively overstretching the teeth pitch and shortening the service life If you are concerned about the teeth being compressed "on" the bearing theby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
short answer is NO im afraid you cant use any of the motors you mentioned in your second post. the 2 wire is a dc motor with a gearbox = no accurate position control the 3 wire you showed are brushless 3 phase motors that are voltage regulated the 5 wire is a geared stepper motor for low torque low speed appilcations You can get a set of 5 nemas from ebay for 45US$ ( CHina HK)by bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
make sure your machines esteps are calibrated as per the wiki then leave them alone once calibrated you can make adjustments as to how much material is actually extruded in your slice software ( in Sli3er its called Extrusion multiplier and in Cura its called packing density ) the fact you measure different measurements for the x and y of your cubes could be different estep values for x &by bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
Dunno how you came about this statement spezzer You can print unsuppoted surfaces its called bridging and there are settings for it in Sli3er takes some fine tunning to get it to work but it definately does work spezzer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > hmm - what kind of cubes are you printing? are > they solid? its difficult to tell. if not solid > tby bigfilsing - General Mendel Topics
i had similar problems i wholeheartedly agree with the suggestions above especially printing the 20mm cube. I actually always use the 0.5 mm thin wall stl to test temp / material ratio settings . At 15mm/s print speed you can get a much better visual of what is going on. If your confident your e steps are calibrated correctly and material diameter is correct then try the slicer extrusion multipby bigfilsing - Printing
First guess would be stepper motor stalling / not enough power. Have you set the power to the steppers correctly maybe try lowering your print speeds to see if the problem changesby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
If you want to check your temp sensor you can maybe try the following Get a thin plactic bag ( something that can take 100C) micro wave bag or similar , The thinner the better. Try and suck all the air out with a drinking straw and tape the bags opening and your wires up Figure our a way to put the bag with the temp sensor in it into boiling water . Boiling water being 100 degrees C Melting icby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi, not an expert by any means but thought id respond this is what i have in my conf.h file // PID settings: // Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang. #define PIDTEMP #define PID_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle; 255=full current #ifdef PIDTEMP //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port. //#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M1by bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
it certainly looks like your stepper driver is a fault did you get the standard stepper motor with the extuder or supply your own ? ( i saw there was an option to buy without stepper) if your sure your stepper motor is working fine then chances are its the controllerby bigfilsing - Printing
yeah i get the 150C thing as well. Seems like its a preset in the Marlin firmware. If you do a lot of printing with fans switched on be sure to have them on during the auto tune process. As far as i can tell the auto tune sets the proportional band (P) to react as quickly as possible to temp change then the I and D are tuned to dampen over shoot.by bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
AVRkire Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > OK, thanks for the tip! > > Currently my first layer height is 100%, do you > have a recommendation to try? If i remember correctly the default " first layer height" for slicer is 200% when you first use it.Certainly worth trying. Keep in mind that some of the changes will effect your whole model not just theby bigfilsing - Printing
HI Why 2 sheets of paper ? try with 1 and check specifically in the area where you are going to print. it may be that your print bed is slightly concave If that shows improvement but still not sticking enough you may consider increasing your first layer In slicer you can find first layer height under print settings > layers and perimeters also if your doubtful you are extuding enough materiby bigfilsing - Printing
Eric Fisher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is it typical for a printer with 1.75mm filament > and a .3mm nozzle to have to print at this speed? > > > With my Ordbot with QUBD extruder at 1.75mm, I > print cleanly at 150mm/sec and have achieved > 180mm/sec I felt like it was going to explode at > that speed. For regular printing however,by bigfilsing - Printing
Hi Franklin I saw similar issues on my rig when i first rebuilt it Assuming your extuder is calibrated correctly ( always worth checking) and the nozzel is clean id try the following 2 perimeters 190 C 30 ( maybe even 40) mm/sec It looks to me like too little material and too cold Good luck rgds Philby bigfilsing - Printing
Question : I too am experimenting with the same hollow cube test piece. im using Sic3r. is the first bridge layer considered the bridge and the following layers just normal fill ?? seems to be a fine adjustment between flow and speed. can anyone share their settings so i can use them as a starting point Thanksby bigfilsing - Printing
the fact it is so regular is still bugging me. almost like your X & Y stepper motors are doing 2 step 1 step 2 step 1 step or something. Maybe they cant follow the commands being sent ..what control board are you using ? if your sending steps/ micro steps that cant be followed then maybe this is the issueby bigfilsing - Printing