You cannot run ABS at 200c! ABS needs to be at 230-240c. No wonder its jamming.by Floyd - Printing
Wow thats nuts! Ive been using normal plate glass for months without issues at 110cby Floyd - Printing
70f is kinda cold. Its almost 10f hotter in my computer room where my printer is. ABS doesnt like to be cold or drafty. PLA is a little nicer when it comes to enviroment changes from what ive seen.by Floyd - Printing
How fast are you printing and what is your layer height?by Floyd - Printing
Mine looks like that on the first layer when im overextruding. Have you played with the percentage in Cura? I was actually messing with mine last night and had to set it to 90% for it to look right printing solid cubes.by Floyd - Printing
Why not edit the gcode and remove that line? I have to edit my gcode for BS things slicers include.by Floyd - Printing
I start and remain at 110c durring my prints with ABS. Ive had bad luck starting at 110c and lowering it to 100c in the past. Once it cools down it starts to pop off the glass.by Floyd - Printing
I live in FL also (Pensacola) and print with 3mm ABS and I dont have these issues. My current 1 kilo spool is a few months old and its sitting out in my computer room unprotected and it prints just fine at 230c.by Floyd - Printing
I home my z .1mm from glass to tip.by Floyd - Printing
Personally I use the RC servo and endstop way. Its a little bit of a pain to set up but its worth it. I just home normally with M28 then send the M29 after it to start the auto bed level routine. The little servo and arm take care of the rest.by Floyd - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I use Garnier Fructis styles Extreme control number 5!by Floyd - General
Hmm. Is there no one that uses 3mm PLA on a V5? If worse comes to worse ill just get the V6 in 1.75mm flavor and call it a day.by Floyd - Reprappers
I used to use nothing but purple glue sticks but the only thing I dont like is if you dont put the glue on evenly then your first layer gets a bit out of whack. Instead I now use hair spray and get the same wonderful hold on my prints and the layers of spray are thinner and more even resulting in great looking first layers.by Floyd - General
Quoteamramsey If I'm not mistaken, the majority of the people having troubles with the E3D v5 and PLA are 1.75mm users. The 3mm PLA has no issues there. See this is what im wanting to find out! If the 3mm works then im golden and ill get a spool but if the 1.75 is better then ill look into a new hot end. Although I hear the V6 E3D does PLA without issues.by Floyd - Reprappers
Hmm, I also have the option I guess to swap out to a 1.75mm hot end... Im almost done my spool of 3mm ABS and then thats all the 3mm I have.by Floyd - Reprappers
I use Solidworks, although im a designer by trade so natually I dont have to pay for it. I think it was about 6-7k for my package with Simulation.by Floyd - General
I have been printing in nothing but ABS since I got my printer and im looking to try out some PLA. My only issue is the mixed reviews I find on people using PLA in E3D V5 hot ends. Some people claim its perfect and others state nothing but jams. Im at a cross road in that I can buy a spool for ~30 bucks but if it doesnt work out im stuck with PLA that I cant use. I was seeing if anyone can confirby Floyd - Reprappers
Quotejaredb03 First layer height: .4mm First layer speed: 30mm First layer extrusion width: 200% Having a .4mm layer with a .4mm tip is going to give you issues. Try bringing it down to .3mm atleast.by Floyd - Printing
Quotesodonnell I really do not want to rely on my z-axis endstop to make sure my z-axis starting location is at the correct height. Any information on the subject would be greatly appreciated. The z axis switch sets your Z height. Personally I got tired of setting my Z height after 4-5 prints so I modified my printer to do an auto bed level before every print. Perfect Z height and no more fussinby Floyd - Firmware - mainstream and related support
To speed up the "warm up" I place a piece of cardboard on top of my glass as well. Cuts down the time to heat up significatly.by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Usually its because the voltage to the steppers is either too high or too low. There is a trim pot on the stepper driver that you can turn to increase or decrease the voltage. Use a ceramic screwdriver while powered up. Personally I power down, adjust then power up and test again. Also looks like your accelleration is at 9000. Most people with reprap printers stay about at about 1000-2000. Yourby Floyd - General Mendel Topics
To see what material it is you can do a "burn test"by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
With my .4mm tip I print at .3mm height for fast prints and .2mm for detailed prints. Ive gone down to .1mm but honestly .2 looks fine and takes a bit less time to make the part.by Floyd - Printing
The limit switches dont matter how they are wired as far as polarity. you can reverse the wires but its going to do the same thing. It would be a big help if you could take a clear picture of the machine you are working on.by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
I bought my E3D through Filastuder and he had great speed on shipping the order out when I needed it the most. Prints my 3mm ABS without issues.by Floyd - Reprappers
Agreed. 200c is too cold for ABS. I print at 230c-235cby Floyd - Reprappers
I print 3mm ABS at 230c on my E3D hot end. I have a .4mm tip FYI.by Floyd - Printing
Id love to try some! The more I see of these extrusions the more I just love them.by Floyd - Reprappers
My drivers are 1/16 steps while my best working AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT is 5 instead of 80, Why?
- 12 years agoNo worries. Simple thing to overlook.by Floyd - General
My drivers are 1/16 steps while my best working AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT is 5 instead of 80, Why?
- 12 years agoCheck out the picture. You have to have these three headers installed under the drivers for 1/16 stepping. Do this with the power off obviously.by Floyd - General