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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: 
My drivers are 1/16 steps while my best working AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT is 5 instead of 80, Why? - 12 years ago
I think for 1/16 steps you have to install all the jumpers under the motor driver chips. Did you install all 3 jumpers under the driver chips?by Floyd - General
Re: Marlin 3D Printer Total Use Timer - 12 years ago
Id go the easy route and install one of these: Hour Meter It would track "on" time for the printer.by Floyd - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 12 years ago
Changed my firmware and it works great now. No more bumping the plate!by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 12 years ago
QuoteBrainscan Roxy has edited the first post at 3dprintboard with info about how to add the retract to the G28 command. Thanks ill check it out. Other than this little issue it works great.by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 12 years ago
Thanks guys, got it cranking away and working great for the G29 probe. Is there anyway to have the G28 z home work the same way? or atleast lift 2-3mm before retract?by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Prime settings maybe? - 12 years ago
I just about got everything printing perfect but the only thing I cannot nail down is the starting of my extrusions. Once it extrudes about 5-8mm its perfect and smooth but the starts are junk and spotty. I have a Makerfarm 8" with an E3D hot end with .4 tip. Im using 3mm ABS at 225c and the bed is at 110c Using KissSlicer now with great results minus my current issue. Here are the settings thatby Floyd - Printing
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 12 years ago
Ill have to dig through some pages to see then I guess. I agree it should lift a little before it retracts because my switch hits against the bed when it does. It seems like a silly little request but id rather have this setup and last instead of the switch hitting the bed a few times before I print.by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 12 years ago
Just got this ABL setup and running great but the ONLY thing I dont like is how the probe retracts between probing. Is there a setting to keep the servo down while probing and then lift after the last probe?by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Rafting and support not being generated as desired in Sli3er - 12 years ago
Quotepremek Simplify3D is not offer demo version its expensive for just try and maybe not happy with that I already emailed and got the same reply. Why spend that much on software I cannot even try first to make sure im not tossing my money away.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Removing saran wrap from abs?? (wrong section maybe) - 12 years ago
Ive never once dried my ABS and ive had no issues with it sitting on the spool for months.by Floyd - Printing
Re: trouble with my magma hot end - 12 years ago
You probably have a leak in the hot end, my leak was so bad I ended up tearing the magma apart trying to clean it out. I instead bought a E3Dv5 and have never been happier.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Strange extruder feed problem Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Quotechris33 floyed its ok to raise it but remember that you want it to stick its better getting 1st layer squished into the bed like it is on the right of the picture the other bit over extruding Agreed you want that first layer to stick but that is way too thin. What does it measure from the bed? I find a first layer of .2mm-.3mm works great.by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: Strange extruder feed problem Prusa i3 - 12 years ago
Looking at that picture your first layer is too low. You are jamming up the extruder with filament backing up because it cannot leave the tip. Increase your first layer level or increase your z home by .1mm and try again.by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: ABS/PA Alloy Parts Stink Twice - 12 years ago
Not sure. People say that ABS smells in their printer but I cant smell anything coming off of mine. Its such a non issue that I have my printer on one side of my PC desk.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Magma Hotend - 12 years ago
My magma broke causing me to buy an E3D hot end and I couldnt be happier with the E3D. Easy to setup and get going making better prints already.by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: printing problem - ABS not attach on the bed - 12 years ago
Looks like you didnt set your Z height correct. You are printing your first layer way too high. When you home your Z you should just be able to slip a sheet of normal paper under the tip with a light drag when you pull the paper. The paper should be .1mm thick.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Retraction problem or not? - 12 years ago
Thats just too small for a FDM printer. FDM = Fused deposition modeling. This model is more for resin printers beause they can print smaller things MUCH better.by Floyd - Printing
Re: [SOLVED] Gaps at starting and stopping points - Bowden tube - 12 years ago
ANYTHING is better than Slic3r... Ive used KissSlicer but im using Cura now. Much faster to post the code and the output is "smarter" Slic3r has a bad habbit of making funny moves and taking longer to print because of it.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Hotend jamming kapton transparent - 12 years ago
What electronics do you have? Thats not the RAMPS board im used to.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Hotend jamming kapton transparent - 12 years ago
WHAT?! Your fan should be wired directly to the PSU 12v and gnd! Your thermistor should ONLY be brought back to the RAMPS board. Change this ASAP and hope you didnt kill the thermistor.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Cura will not print - 12 years ago
I export the Gcode from Cura and then use an SD card or Pronterface to do the printing.by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: bottom of a radius not coming out - 12 years ago
Id have to turn the support down to about 30* or so to do much. Right now its at the default 60*by Floyd - Printing
Re: bottom of a radius not coming out - 12 years ago
This was just a test piece that I did up real quick. The actual part is shaped like a money clip. Instead of printing the whole thing over again I just modeled this up as a test part. Im not sure if a cooling fan on the ABS would help but im game for anything.by Floyd - Printing
bottom of a radius not coming out - 12 years ago
how can I get a nice clean radius on the bottom of my parts? I tried 110c bed and 95c bed with the same results minus the 95c lifting on the ends. Its a .4mm tip at 40mm/sec and 225c hot end. ABS 3mmby Floyd - Printing
Re: Prusa i3 bleeding extruder - 12 years ago
I bed your hot end heats up first then stays hot while the bed heats up. I do the reverse. I heat up the bed first (takes awhile) then home the machine then heat the hot end. Once its up to temp it prints. I only ooze about 2-3mm out the tip and that gets primed back in the first inch or so of my skirt.by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: Bad edges on i3 + e3d v5 - 12 years ago
With my E3D hot end on my 8" makerfarm I had to put my retract at .5mm to get rid of some of those issues. With the Magma I had before it it was more like 1.2mm retract. Id print that at 40mm/sec 225c tip and 110c bed with a .2mm layer height.by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: How to stick ABS to heatbed - haispray failed - 12 years ago
I use either the purple glue stick or Garnier Fructis extreme control 5 "exteme"by Floyd - Printing
Re: Low Extrusion in thin areas - 12 years ago
I had the same issue and it turned out my retraction was too much at 1.1mm on a direct setup. I tested a few retract settings and .5mm retract at 30mm/sec worked out great on the smaller sections like in your picture.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Print fall apart - 12 years ago
I only prints in ABS and I have to say, if your printing small items you almost have to print more than one and space them about 1"-2" apart on the bed. This helps to let the layers cool enough without turning into a ball of goo from the heat.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Calibration print, z axis issue? - 12 years ago
If thats a cube print then it looks like something is up with your X motor. Perhaps the stepper driver is underpowered or the pulley/belt is slipping.by Floyd - Printing