Show all posts by user
http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: ABS printing temp - 12 years ago
My ABS sits out on the spool in the open of my computer room without issues. I print at 225c with a E3D hot end and .4mm tip.by Floyd - General
Re: Printing problem - 12 years ago
Set your Z home to .1mm between the tip and bed. Use a normal sheet of paper to gauge the .1mm distance. You should feel a light drag when pulled.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Best hotend? - 12 years ago
I also just went from a Magma hot end to an E3D with much better results.by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: Over heating - 12 years ago
My extruder stepper gets to about 80c on the top during long prints. I need to turn my current down.by Floyd - General
Re: i3 Magma problem - 12 years ago
I just went from a magma on my makerfarm unit to an E3D hot end and the results are GREAT. I had a bad jam and the magma got messed up bad so I got the E3D and its great and I dont even have it dialed in yet.by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Belt loose can't fix - 12 years ago
Where you loop the belt and attach to the X carriage just make your loop take up more slack so you can adjust the tension with the motor some more. You would be "shortening" the belt.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Question about submitting DXF files to laser cutter and space between cuts. - 12 years ago
You need to either get 6mm MDF or change the design to use 5.5mm MDF looking at those photos.by Floyd - General
Re: Question about submitting DXF files to laser cutter and space between cuts. - 12 years ago
Post a jpeg of the layout and people can give you a better reply. Without seeing the file I can say that if there are any tab/slot items then they will have .5mm of slop if you dont use 6mm mdf like the dxf states. Also with the spacing it really depends on the shop. Some like more room between parts and some dont mind. You can also "common line" cut the parts but you need to know the kerf of theby Floyd - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
Just wanted to give a hats off to the E3D crew. I havent even fully calibrated my new 3mm direct yet and its already printing better than my Makerfarm Magma did! I had about 6-7 hours of printing this weekend and it was the best ive done so far.by Floyd - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
Wow thats very hot for PLA. Heck I dont even print my ABS that high!by Floyd - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 12 years ago
Cant remember if its been covered yet but yesterday I got my E3D hot end and it looks great but.... On a Makerfarm printer that came with a Magma hot end the aluminum adapter plate WILL NOT work with the E3D heatsink! Luckily I have access to a Stratus printer at work and im printing an adapter that I made yesterday in Solidworks. **Also a little FYI for those with the Makerfarm unit** File downby Floyd - General
Re: beg thread: .35 jhead settings - 12 years ago
For ABS I use 225c for the hot end and 110c for the bed. Speeds are from 30-50 depending on the size of the object.by Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: Colin from MakerFarm - 12 years ago
I agree. Cant stop saying nice things about Colin. He brings a GREAT feeling to customer service once again!by Floyd - General
Re: New Prusa i3, first prints problems - 12 years ago
Looks like over extrusion. Have you calibrated your extruder motors steps per mm yet?by Floyd - Printing
Re: Prusa i3 kits - 12 years ago
I also have a Makerfarm i3 8" from Colin and its a great kit! Again I was right before the rail system so I have the normal rods and bearings. My only gripes are that the Y platform is very loud when it moves, I cannot find out what is resonating to isolate it. Other than that its a great kit and the fact that Colin is so fast and eager to reply was a no brainer for me. Im very happy with my kitby Floyd - General Mendel Topics
Re: whats your strategy for tuning demensions - 12 years ago
Steps per/mm in the firmwareby Floyd - Printing
Re: Can't get to 120° on the bed. PSU problem? - 12 years ago
Thats where a nice adjustable PSU comes in handy. I can bump mine up if needed. Yes printing while printing ABS, heating the plate takes a LONG time compared to PLA. Its just one draw back among many. Im debating switching to PLA after this roll of ABS I have is gone.by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: Filament breaks between use - 12 years ago
Sounds like cheap filament junk. Its not black by chance is it? ive seen some issues popping up on the forums with black PLAby Floyd - Reprappers
Re: Can't get to 120° on the bed. PSU problem? - 12 years ago
110 is enough for ABS, why go higher?by Floyd - Reprappers
Re: ABS layers not sticking. - 12 years ago
Meat thermometer if you want to be cheap about it. Most use an inferred thermometer though. Well worth the money, I use mine on all sorts of stuff.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Printing first layer too thin - 12 years ago
I have the same issues when my first layer is too close to the glass. I have my first layer at .3mmby Floyd - Printing
Re: Can't figure out how to fix this. - 12 years ago
Where were the blobs? It could be you need to up your retraction value.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Can't figure out how to fix this. - 12 years ago
An extrusion multiplyer of .75 is a little nuts and it does look like your under extruding. Try bumping that to .9 or .95 and try again.by Floyd - Printing
Re: printing issues - 12 years ago
Personally I never print that fast. Try 40-50mm/s on the perimeter and see if your just going too fast.by Floyd - Printing
Re: SLDPRT to anything usable - 12 years ago
Without Solidworks im not sure if there is a way to open and convert. I have 2014 SW so its a non issue for meby Floyd - General
Re: Poor print corners, but not everywhere! - 12 years ago
255 is fairly hot. I print my ABS at 225 without issues. Bed at 110c for the whole print. I tried cooler temps for the first layers but it kept lifting.by Floyd - Printing
Re: First time 3D printer user... Struggling with ABS and starting layers - 12 years ago
I use glass bed at 110c with purple elmers stick glue in a thin layer. Prints stay on untill the glass cools down and they pop off.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Problem printing GT2 pulleys - 12 years ago
QuoteFlyingLotus1983 If anyone else has successfully printed GT2 2mm please let me know how you did it I had one printed on a Uprint SE at work and it was great! I dont know the DIA of the tip but im sure its in the .3mm range. I dont think I could do it at home with a .4 tip... Although I didnt try.by Floyd - Printing
Re: Layer starting issues - 12 years ago
What would be a good value? Right now I think the value is at 500by Floyd - Printing