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Re: Layer starting issues - 12 years ago

Nothing? wow I figured someone could help me out diagnosing the starting issue...

by Floyd - Printing

Layer starting issues - 12 years ago

Once im printing it looks GREAT but the starting points are very obvious in my prints. Im printing ABS at 225c with bed at 110c. Layer height at .2mm and retract at 1mm at 30mm/sec and perimiters at 50mm/sec. Any suggestions on where to start to not get blobs at the start of my layers? Bottom: The start area and the side right around the corner. Back side is great:

by Floyd - Printing

Re: I modelled it, but can I print it? - 12 years ago

You were not going to fool me with that. I use Solidworks everyday

by Floyd - General

Re: Calibration thin wall cube - 12 years ago

I will post up a picture of the box tonight and show you another issue I was having. When it starts a new layer it doesnt look good, sometimes I get little blobs and other times its acting like its underextruding. Everything has been calibrated and the box looks great other than where it starts and stops for the layers. I have retract on at 1mm at 30mm/sec and for the test I was at 50mm/sec on th

by Floyd - Slic3r

Re: I modelled it, but can I print it? - 12 years ago

Yes but the illusion will only work when you view it from that one angle.

by Floyd - General

Calibration thin wall cube - 12 years ago

I printed a model of a .4mm wall cube and the actual wall came out .75-.80, what all should I adjust in Slic3r to get my part correct? Im using a .4mm tip on a magma hot end with .2mm steps on the z

by Floyd - Slic3r

Re: Issue with first layer - 12 years ago

Printed out the part again last night and it was still wavy like the first although it was a lot better. Watching it print it looks like its not stepping over enough and its laying the next bead almost on top of the first. From there its just a tolerance build up and it gets worse the farther you go. Im going to try Slic3r tonight and see what it gets me. Cura is nice and all but the options are

by Floyd - Printing

Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3 - Replacing wooden parts with printed - 12 years ago

Looked quick on Thingiverse again and saw these: Granted his prints look terrible but the actual parts look ok. Ill still be designing some of my own when I can.

by Floyd - Reprappers

Re: MakerFarm Prusa i3 - Replacing wooden parts with printed - 12 years ago

I havent seen any personally. I have thought the same thing for my Makerfarm 8" but with me being a designer I was going to model some up and put them on thingiverse. Just havent had the time to do so yet.

by Floyd - Reprappers

Re: Issue with first layer - 12 years ago

I just printed out a test part and it was perfect. I guess it was just because my steps were off. Ill try this original object tomorrow.

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Issue with first layer - 12 years ago

Uploaded the new firmware and it extrudes 100mm when I tell it. Now for some calibration pieces before I attempt this part again.

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Issue with first layer - 12 years ago

I just asked Pronterface to extrude 100mm and I was 6.7mm short. Im aparently under extruding. I ran this test twice. Now to figure out how to change it...

by Floyd - Printing

Issue with first layer - 12 years ago

The skirt, perimiter line and first line of the base looked great but as soon as it started adding lines it started messing up. The part is ~4" square. ABS at 225c and bed at 110c with a first layer height of .25mm I Just leveled the bed to .1mm (paper method) and ive had tons of great prints without this issue. Any suggestions? You can see the great skirt lines!

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Printing ABS Temp Issue: Please Help !!! - 12 years ago

QuoteJanski Normally, I found that when I click Set Temp in pronterface, the printer heats up to the temp stated, but then it slowly start to fall. If i set this to "0" in slic3r, would i then have to keep on clicking set temp in pronterface? or will it keep the temp for the duration of the print time? If you hit "set temp" in pronterface and your temps dont hit what you set it to and stay ther

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Material not sticking to bed - 12 years ago

Quotedaveb500 You need some clean glass, then a coating of 30%PVA (Elmers)and 70% water, That will stick the material to the bed when heated. PLA heat 55 ABS around 70 ABS bed temp should be about 110c.

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Prusa i3 6" Z motor to threaded rod connection prob - 12 years ago

Yea unless you drill out that hole on the bottom of the X carriage you cannot put a zip tie on the threaded section because it goes into the wooden section.

by Floyd - General Mendel Topics

Re: Material not sticking to bed - 12 years ago

Wow thats horrible looking! Clean that clean ASAP! no wonder its not sticking!

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Prusa i3 6" Z motor to threaded rod connection prob - 12 years ago

I put a ziptie on mine only on the bottom where is attaches to the motor. I had this issue when I first got the printer but it was fixed with a ziptie and also lubing the z screws. If there is ANY binding on those threaded rods it will pull that hose right off.

by Floyd - General Mendel Topics

Re: Why are my prints getting worse? - 12 years ago

What is the layer height set to? Those layers looks HUGE. If you are sharing a Slic3r then it would be smart of you to keep your own config file when you go there. God knows what someone else buggered up.

by Floyd - Printing

Re: First layer won't stick - the bed isn't sticky at all! - 12 years ago

Correct! A buisness card is like 3-4 times the height that it needs to be! A normal sheet of printer paper measures .1mm thick. This is what you should be using.

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Plastic wire broke ! - 12 years ago

275c is a bit hot from what most people run their ABS. Heck I run mine at 230c with no issues. Maybe your running too hot and its jamming the extruder? Do you have pictures?

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Prusa Nozzle MKII not enough temperatur for abs ? - 12 years ago

Im not sure about the ramps 1.3 I have the 1.4 and 12v has no issues heating to 300c on my all metal hot end.

by Floyd - Reprappers

Re: Prusa Nozzle MKII not enough temperatur for abs ? - 12 years ago

I extrude ABS at 230. Why go to 250?

by Floyd - Reprappers

Re: First layer won't stick - the bed isn't sticky at all! - 12 years ago

Ive had prints come off the bed near 100c before. Why cant you get to 110c? Is your printer in a real cold room or something?

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Kisslicer and Prusa i3 - 12 years ago

I did just copy them over from Slic3r but it doesnt work the same. Slic3r heats up the bed, then homes, then heats up the tip CURA heats up the bed and tip, then homes. I like heating up the bed first because it takes so much longer. I dont want the tip heated up and oozing out the tip while the bed heats up. My current work around is just setting bed temp in pronterface and once its close to 1

by Floyd - General Mendel Topics

Re: First layer won't stick - the bed isn't sticky at all! - 12 years ago

Your bed temp isnt hot enough. I use nothing but elmers purple stick glue at 110c bed temp and 130c nozzle temp and I can atually pick the printer up by pulling on a small part on the glass. Once it cools down to about 60-70c it pops right off. Try cranking the temp and placing a single layer of purple glue on a freshly cleaned piece of glass.

by Floyd - Printing

Re: E3D warping - 12 years ago

Probably, thats why people with Magma hot ends run a fan with ducting to channel the air around the hot end but not on the part.

by Floyd - Reprappers

Re: Kisslicer and Prusa i3 - 12 years ago

Im using CURA on my Makerfarm i3 with .4 Magma with no issues. The only thing I cant figure out on it is the start gcode. everything else works like a dream.

by Floyd - General Mendel Topics

Re: CURA calibration help! - 12 years ago

I see. I gave up on the thin walled box and just printed some nautilus gears. They came out great but I had the issue with the lack of plastic on the start of the print. I have a skirt with 2 rounds that was ~12-15 linear inches long and it just barely started coming out before it started the print. When I used Slic3r it only went about .5" before extruding the rest of the skirt without issues.

by Floyd - Printing

Re: Magma hotend nozzle? - 12 years ago

Try emailing Colin from Makerfarm and see if he can sell you just the tip. He has pulled through for me in the past and his speedy replys are the best ive seen.

by Floyd - General Mendel Topics