I often design complex parts in sections to get over the rendering & rotation times. I make separate modules for each section and call just 1 or two modules to display while debugging the code. Daveby dmould - OpenSCAD
QuoteSardi Quotedmould considering it is pretty expensive software. Exactly the reason Im asking Thanks guys, Ill stick to Slic3r and Cura. In my experience, if an stl does not turn out good with one, it (almost always) will with the other one. The biggest difference I noticed are thin walls, while Cura has no problems with them, Slic3r tends not to do them very well. There is a known bug wiby dmould - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Quotedmould ..The published STL for the Ormerod Z end cap.. Dave Do you mean z-upper-mount - and published where? Erik Yes, the Z upper mount, published in the official RepRap "Ormerod-master/stl/individual parts" directory of the online repository that I picked up ages ago when I first got my Ormerod. I've attached it here. S3D places about 3 solid membranes at various heighby dmould - Ormerod
Silly question - how deep is the embossing, and what is your layer height? If the embossing depth is less than twice your layer height, it may well get filled in by the slicer. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
I've gone back to Slic3r. There were too many STLs that S3D could not handle but worked fine in Slic3r. The published STL for the Ormerod Z end cap, as just one example ... S3D puts 2 or 3 single layer bridges across the large opening at different heights. Repairing with NetFab made no difference. Slic3r worked perfectly. This is not the only case by a long way - while it always printed my oby dmould - Ormerod
Yes, for some reason I have always needed to use an extrusion multiplier of 0.83 (83% or 5/6ths) despite the fact that my filament diameter is accurate and my extruder correctly calibrated. I've never worked out why that is. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
I doubt that the extrusion amount is incorrect - if it was, it would be wrong for all layers. It is far more likely that your nozzle is too far from the bed for the first layer. Setting the first layer height to something greater than the rest helps to reduce the effect (because the percentage error decreases for the same absolute error. e.g. if your layer height is 0.2mm, try setting first laby dmould - Slic3r
Slic3r generates a tool path that follows the *centre* of the extrusion. So a cylinder with a diameter of 10mm printed with an extrusion width of 0.4mm will generate a tool path that describes a circle with diameter of 9.6mm (0.2mm in from the outside perimeter). The issue you are seeing is probably mainly due to the fact that the inside circumference of the extruded line is shorter than the ouby dmould - Slic3r
If you are getting popping sounds, it is possibly water in the filament. Filament is slightly hygroscopic, so if you do not store it in a sealed container with a dehydrating agent, it will accumulate water. - If you are getting small cracking sounds as the filament feeds, it may indicate that the filament has worn its way through the extruder entrance. Look underneath the curved part of the eby dmould - Ormerod
The apparent difference between the bed height in X at the centre compared with the edges may be due to the force of the Bowden tube tilting the head slightly. Try disconnecting the Bowden tube from the extruder and see if that makes a difference, or clip the extruder on a different place on the X-arm. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
The extruder will work only if the nozzle is hot. The big gear should turn clockwise when you click "extrude" and anti-clockwise when you click "extract". Is that what is happening? If it is turning the wrong direction, you can either reverse the wires on the Duet, or add the command to your config.sys file "M569 P3 S1" See: Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Apart from the machine settings (bed size, extruder parameters etc,) you should change the other settings to suit the type of print you are making. Smaller layer heights give a smoother finish but longer print times, larger infill percentage gives a stringer part but uses more filament and takes longer to print - etc. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedoodady Quotedmould Quotedoodady What happens if you try to bridge to or from the middle of a bridge? Please understand I am relatively new here The same as if you try to bridge a gap of exactly 2m with a plank of wood that is exactly 2m long. The wood has nothing to rest on at each end, so it falls into the gap. Dave What is the result if the bridge is 2.30m and the gap is 2m (15% oby dmould - Slic3r
Quotedoodady What happens if you try to bridge to or from the middle of a bridge? Please understand I am relatively new here The same as if you try to bridge a gap of exactly 2m with a plank of wood that is exactly 2m long. The wood has nothing to rest on at each end, so it falls into the gap. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
You will need to upload your STL if you would like other people to look at the problem. "A frame with two holes in it" is too vague to allow anyone to replicate the issue. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
Note some OpenScad functions cannot be imported into Freecad - e.g. Minkowski and Hull, and there are limitation on child arguments. Daveby dmould - OpenSCAD
A bridge needs to start and end on a horizontal surface. You cannot bridge from or to another bridge on the same layer that is hanging in mid-air, bridges must be from wall to wall so there is at least a small base section to adhere to. Creating two bridges either side of a hole would still result in the perimeter of the hole falling through most of the time, and even if the perimeter managed tby dmould - Slic3r
Quotedoodady So does Slic3r re-adjust the thickness of the in-fill to try to compensate for the skipped infill layers or does it just skip the infill for the set amount of layers? I have not used this feature but I would like to understand its capabilities better. Yes, Slic3r calculates the correct extrusion rate to fill the missing layers. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
It is physically impossible to print a hole in mid-air with a FFF printer (think about it). As has been said, the most common way is to fill the hole at its base with a single layer "skin", and drill/cut it out it after printing. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
QuoteIMBoring25 102% will usually not be an appropriate setting for extrusion width. It is computed against layer height, which is usually recommended to be no more than around 75% of the nozzle diameter, so if you're following that guideline you're setting extrusion width to just over 75% of the nozzle diameter or less. Extrusion width should usually be equal to or greater than nozzle diameterby dmould - Slic3r
As others have said, Slic3r already does this. However you won't get good results if the infill height is greater than the nozzle diameter, so ensure that your layer height multiplied by number of layers between infill does not exceed your nozzle diameter. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
Hmmm - on second examination, I see that Appjaws' design on Thingiverse is completely different to his design in the forum (link) There does not appear to be any diagram of how the Thingiverse design fits onto the Ormerod, but I expect it will be easy to figure out. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Quoteaniron Appjaws' design for the Ormerod 1 (linked above) is now available on Thingiverse. That looks great, although I noticed that the "Y idler adjustment ring" is not included. This is just a thumb wheel to fit the bolt head, so is easy enough to design. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Yes, it's the perimeter extrusion width you should play with to get thin walls completely filled. Or adjust the wall thickness in your model. It will also print faster than filling (only 2 passes per wall instead of 3) Daveby dmould - Slic3r
QuoteSardi 400 hrs a year printing? Tbh thats nothing to me. For the last 3 weeks Ive been doing about 8hrs a day of printing. Prints are not big, I do printed texts at the time, a lot of curves, so max speeds of about 30mms, so they take about 45min to 60mins, depending on the file. Filament is not that expensive though, in my town I can get a roll of 1kg for 20-23 euros. I might have periods oby dmould - Ormerod
There is no way that 3 years of use would bring you anywhere close to 20000 hrs operating time. Four hours per day (average) would be *extremely* heavy use for a home printer (that's one quite large print every single day, you'd be spending a fortune on filament), and even at that usage rate it would take over 13 years to reach 20000 hours. I consider my use to be pretty heavy but I doubt thatby dmould - Ormerod
It's quite likely that the nature of the task does not lend itself to concurrent processing. ISTM that each stage would need to be computed serially. Rotating an F5 render is a lot faster than working with an F6 render, though the F5 rendering often has errors. Sometimes I design the part in sections so that I can work on each section individually before rendering the entire part. Daveby dmould - OpenSCAD
You can set non-printing speeds to be pretty fast so the move to a start position does not take too much time. You can choose between various start position algorithms in "Print Settings" > "Layers and perimeters" > Advanced" > "Seam position" If you select "nearest" for the seam position, it should result in minimum XY move between layers. This is not something that can be adjustedby dmould - Slic3r
Also the com port number usually changes, so you won't connect to the Duet using the same port number you used to upload the firmware. Daveby dmould - Ormerod