As soon as you use one of the place-holders in your custom G-code (e.g. ""), Slic3r will no longer add its own command for that parameter. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
QuoteVortyZAIf the twist is on the motor side, you would need to remove the motor and belt to get to the screws. It doesn't matter which side the misalignment is, it can always be corrected by twisting the non-motor side only. The goal is to get the Y rods exactly parallel, you can then raise or lower the front of the bed to get it level. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
I now use a 5mm thick aluminium plate covered with a sheet of "printbite". No glass. For parts with small footprints that need greater adhesion to the bed, I coat the "Printbite" with saturated sugar solution (with a drop of washing-up liquid added so it doesn't bead when coated). Daveby dmould - Ormerod
In which case the issue is almost certainly not the glass. Misaligned Y rods are the most common issue, and can be corrected by loosening the screws on the end-plates (feet) and twisting them relative to each other before re-tightening. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Sounds like either the cool-end is not cooling sufficiently (is the fan mounted the correct way around?), the heat-break between the nozzle and the cold block is defective (hotend block is touching the cold block and/or heat insulator missing) or there is poor thermal contact between the heat sink and the cold block (ensure screws are tight and surfaces flush - maybe add some heat compound). A pby dmould - Ormerod
My suggestion for the next step would be to check and/or re-make all the 12V connections. Incoming 12VDC supply (both ends), hotend and bed heater. Random crashes such as you are experiencing are usually caused by power transients in one of the high-current lines feeding into a logic signal, which can be caused by current flow through a part of the circuit that should not be taking the current.by dmould - Ormerod
What appears to be a bending or domed glass plate is usually caused by other factors. An apparently warped glass is usually really the result of non-parallel Y rods which raises and lowers the front of the bed as it moves in Y. The Bowden tube exerting different forces as the X axis moves can result in the glass appearing to be domed. Obviously thicker & stiffer glass will not correct eithby dmould - Ormerod
I am now happy to try using software Z compensation after fitting a proper leadscrew on the Z axis and not having the worry of wearing out the nut or threaded rod with lots of Z moves. So this firmware comes at a good time. However I must first re-attach the Z probe, which I removed when fitting the new Z mechanism and did not get around to re-attaching (I'm presently homing X and Z by hand).by dmould - Ormerod
The only thing in that post I could see that might possibly cause a rejection is the phrase "normal people" which might be used as an indicator of an an offensive message. Unless "Christmas" is banned. But that's a big stretch and will be disproved if this post gets through OK - it's quite possibly just a case of a moderator hitting the wrong button. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Quotethe_digital_dentist The nozzle diameter does matter. See: Yes, it matters insofar that you will not get a good print if you choose an extrusion width that is too thin or wide for the nozzle diameter. My point however was that having chosen a particular extrusion width and produced the corresponding G-code, the width printed using that code will not be affected by nozzle diameter - thougby dmould - Slic3r
That brings back memories of high school metalwork & getting into trouble for sitting astride the shaping machine & riding it like a horse ... Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Quotethe_digital_dentist That doesn't make sense. All the plastic has to flow through the nozzle. The diameter does matter- the rate of extrusion is affected by the nozzle diameter. That's why the slicer needs to know the diameter of the nozzle. You will get different line widths if you move gcode from a printer with a 0.4 mm nozzle and try to run it in a machine with a 0.25 mm nozzle becausby dmould - Slic3r
Yes, I've been caught by power-only cables before! Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Setting the line width in mm should result in that width of line regardless of your nozzle diameter. The line width is dependent only on the rate of extrusion and the layer height - the nozzle width does not affect the width of the extrusion, though you will not get good results if the line width is a lot different to the nozzle diameter. IOW any given G-code file will print the same width lineby dmould - Slic3r
It is almost certainly to do with wall thickness and extrusion thickness. I don't recall whether you can alter the extrusion thickness in Cura (this is NOT the same as nozzle diameter). If you change the perimeter extrusion thickness OR the wall thickness of the heart a little (0.1mm or less is probably enough), you should see the issue disappear. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
I agree with Erik that your first layer is printing too high (Z zero setting too high). This results in the extrusion width being too thin, which in turn means that the infill will not quite reach the perimeter and so get pulled back. As far as layer bonding is concerned, stopping the cooling air was a good move. Slowing the print will also help by having the molten filament in contact with thby dmould - Ormerod
Remember that there are two "shells" on a wall - one on one side of the wall and the other on the other side. So a 0.5mm shell on a 1mm thick wall will be solid (two 0.5mm shells on each side of the wall = 1mm). A rounded corner of a wall is not always a constant thickness, depending on how the model was made. Also the horizontal shell will relate to a number of layers and so be a multiple ofby dmould - Ormerod
If you mean that you are turning off the 12V supply, then I am not surprised. The power glitch is highly likely to result in the CPU crashing. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Most print time estimates do not take acceleration or deceleration times into account, but simply accumulate speed/distance for all moves so they under-estimate. Reducing retraction may result in blobbing & stringing. You could instead tick "Only retract when crossing perimeters (under "Print Settings" > "Infill") Daveby dmould - Slic3r
There is also an issue if you switch anything that is on the same power plug. For example when I first used my Ormerod it was plugged into an extension lead - if I plugged a soldering iron into another socket on the same extension lead, the Duet would crash. So ensure that your Ormerod is the only device connected to the wall socket. Maybe try using an extension lead that has surge protectionby dmould - Ormerod
In that case try setting the extrusion width to 0.51mm. Should have a similar effect to narrowing the wall width. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
I sometimes get similar problems. Try either making the wall 1.01mm or the extrusion width 0.49mm and see what happens - this often works for me. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
QuoteSardi Quotedmould You could have a partially blocked nozzle Dave I could, but then it would only be blocked at higher speeds at lower temps. It could well be that at slower speeds & hotter temps the extruder motor is strong enough to push the plastic past the partial blockage. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
You could have a partially blocked nozzle Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Good test - thanks for doing that. I'm surprised that the shrinkage is as much, though 0.03mm per 10mm is too small to be a concern for most parts. Was it printed in a chamber? The average temperature of the part will be higher in a chamber than for an open printer. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
Sounds like a feature request rather than a bug report. It would be possible to write a post-processing application that looks at the movement speed and changes G1 to G0 on all fast moves. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
QuoteDjDemonDI'd like to try the test with the z - height but I can't see how to keep the nozzle above the object without it oozing and being stuck to the object. Just modify your end code so that the nozzle moves to the home position in XY, but does not move in Z. Wait for everything to cool, then manually move the nozzle back so it is over the part. I would expect the shrinkage to occur uneby dmould - Slic3r
QuoteDjDemonD@dmould - I have read this in the research I did before posting this question and I can see the logic of your position but it does not match up to the experience I have had. All my printers when printing ABS produce a 40mm x 40mm object which once cooled and removed from the build plate is 39.7mm = 0.7% smaller than I asked for. Now I am willing to accept that they might all be mis-cby dmould - Slic3r
Plastic shrinkage will not affect the final dimension by anything significant. Try a thought-experiment to illustrate. Imagine that the plastic shrinks by a whopping 50% as it cools. Now think of a nozzle printing the square perimeter on the first layer of a 100mm cube. After the square of plastic has been laid down, it will not shrink to become a square of 50mm per side - only the extrusionby dmould - Slic3r
- 9 years agoJust prior to the "import" line for the second DXF object, add the line translate () Note do not add a ";" character. Experiment with different values for x and y to position the object where you want it. If you need them at different heights you can change the "0" value. Daveby dmould - OpenSCAD