QuoteReplace Ok, thanks. just as I thought. (I did not know the word 'frame' so I wrote cross-section. I will try to get hold of the frame design and start from there. thanks for the confirmation of the approach. I did not understand the chine part... sorry Is it true that the hull, if applied to f.i x100 frames, will follow the outlines of all of them ? And if it is not smooth, just put moreby dmould - OpenSCAD
If the board brings up a "Bossa" serial port, it is not fried, but it is not programmed. You need to burn a firmware version into it before Pronterface will recognise it or it will appear on a web browser. I recommend downloading the latest firmware from DC42 or RepRap and burning that. You will need the program "Bossac.exe". Plug in your Duet, press the "erase" button on the board, and thenby dmould - Ormerod
QuotePeterSimpson Quotedmould To set the Z zero position 0.1mm higher, simply send "G92 ZX.X" where "X.X" is 0.1mm higher than the height indicated. Dave How, if at all, does the G92 command interact with the other commands for z axis manipulation, such as the G1 Z0 command or the G30 command? Should the G92 command be executed before any of these other commands (as a command line in Pronterfby dmould - Ormerod
I'd probably start by designing the shape of the (thin) frames at regular intervals along the length of the ship (just as you would do when physically constructing the vessel), and then use the "hull" function to connect them. You only need to construct one side, then mirror the half-hull to create the whole. If you can work out a general set of shapes for each frame, you may be able to use a lby dmould - OpenSCAD
QuotePeterSimpson Quotedmould ....Set the Z zero position manually every time and do not use the Z sensor.... Dave Thanks Dave and Trevmas. I will try your suggestions. How do you suggest I should set the Z zero position manually, without using the Z sensor? I find it very difficult (no, impossible) to see the nozzle when it is in close proximity to the bed, especially in the x-0, y=0 position.by dmould - Ormerod
Perhaps rather reduce the ooze by increasing the retraction distance and/or speed, and also increase the non-printing move speed. Ticking "avoid crossing perimeters" may also help. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
The symptoms indicate that the nozzle is too high. Set the Z zero position manually every time and do not use the Z sensor. Ensure there is no plastic blob on the nozzle before manually zeroing. Also adjust the bed to be as level as possible (so the Z zero position is the same at the edges and middle of the bed). If you cannot get it level, set up the bed calibration manually as well. If theby dmould - Ormerod
Is it the standard gear or herringbone? Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Nothing whatsoever to do with 3D printing. Probably a teenager with some pirated CAD software. The spamming of 3D printing forums would indicate that he has no idea what his target market is and so is anything but professional, so my recommendation would be to steer well clear. Daveby dmould - 3D Design tools
Overhang issues require the extrusion to be cooled as soon as possible after being laid down to prevent curl-up, so needs a good nozzle-cooling arrangement - a second cooling fan being the normal method. I have successfully babied a print with an overhang by using a drinking straw to blow air at the base of the nozzle on every layer as it got to the overhang region. Boring and time-consuming, bby dmould - Ormerod
Quotemat_fr I suppose the temperature can also have an effect on the squishing, if the temperature is too high the extruded plastic will be too soft? No. The width of the extrusion is governed only by the volume extruded per unit length and the height of the extrusion. The volume is fixed by the slicing software (which calculates volume per unit length from desired width and layer height). Theby dmould - Ormerod
Quotethe_digital_dentist I'm doing this to operate a coreXY mechanism as a drawbot without pen lift capability (yet) so returning to home for each layer would draw an extra line at each layer change. I'm looking into adding a solenoid to lift the pen, then it's all good. Thanks. Sounds intriguing - what sort of pen drawing has multiple layers? Also not sure why you would need to home for eachby dmould - Slic3r
There are a few factors that can affect how well two close objects remain detached. First, the extrusion factor affects the perimeter dimension, so it may be an idea to do an extrusion test using the filament you use for the part. Note that the perimeter extrusion shape is semi-circular on the outside, and the part size will be the average of distance between the outer "bulges" of each layer anby dmould - Ormerod
This is the Slic3r forum rather than Cura, but many of us use both slicers. Cura uses INI files for storing & loading profiles (i.e. print parameters such as speed, temperature etc.) Assuming that you are using the GUI and want to load a model into Cura for slicing, this needs to be in STL format. Either drag & drop the STL onto the build plate or use "File" > "Load model file" Ifby dmould - Slic3r
Try this: On the top row of tabs, go to "File">"Preferences" and switch mode to "Expert" On the second set of tabs go to "Print Settings">"Layers and Perimeters". At the bottom under "Advanced" change the Seam Position to "Aligned" After changing, don't forget to click the blue floppy disk icon and save the settings before slicing. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
Yes, reducing the acceleration will prevent changes in speed of the extruder being so sudden, and so dampen the spring effect in the Bowden tube. The most important specification for my new design is that it must have a direct drive extruder regardless of the arrangement of the XYZ movement. The Bowden design is responsible for a heck of a lot of printing artefacts, because it guarantees that tby dmould - Ormerod
Quotemat_fr I had printed this spool holder but when the spool is too light it doesn't "stick", it gets off of the spool. Maybe weight the spool down by putting a short heavy rod through the hub of the spool, or print some clips that prevent the spool lifting too high.. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
No, definitely do not constrain the top of the Z screw. A quite badly bent threaded rod will still work fine if it is held in only 2 places (the lower gear and the nut-trap). The top of a bent rod will describe large circles at low Z heights and smaller circles at higher Z heights, but will still raise the X-arm by the correct amount without undue sideways forces. If it is constrained at the tby dmould - Ormerod
Thinking about it, variations in extrusion would possibly affect thin layers worse than thick layers (the reverse of what I had stated before). My previous thinking was that the slower extrusion speed would result in less Bowden-induced error. But on second thoughts, the percentage width error for a given volumetric error would increase with reduced layer height so it's a toss-up which effect wby dmould - Ormerod
The symptom you show is almost certainly caused by a loose X belt. The Y side is not clear, but if that also have layer lines then the Y belt is also on the loose side. PSU issues would not cause that (a missed step will show a definite offset rather than wandering layers). A loose belt will result in the perimeter being laid down in a different place if it is drawn in one direction compared tby dmould - Ormerod
At least you are running again! The bed LED issue suggests that you still have a bad connection between the Duet and the bed heater. If the heater PCB is damaged it is probably easiest to buy a new one from Amazon or eBay. Look at the dimensions, voltage and power carefully to ensure you get a suitable one. The original Ormerod that I have was supplied with an ATX PSU. The 12V was not that gby dmould - Ormerod
Which power supply is not working, your main 12V supply or the onboard 5V switching supply? If it is the main 12V supply all your symptoms make sense. I suspect that it began cutting out for brief periods before finally failing altogether, which is not an uncommon failure mode for a switching supply. The brief cut-outs would not be long enough to kill the 5V and reset the Duet, but would be loby dmould - Ormerod
If you run at a higher voltage, probably best to remove the external 5V regulator and enable the Duet's on-board switchmode regulator. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Quotemat_fr Thanks for the link also. Are these rubber heat beds easily installed on the Ormerod ? Sorry the question is naive but the stock ormerod2 is my only experience with 3D printer and I find it very delicate to handle so I've become very cautious about touching it (less and less, that being said ) Depends on your bed arrangement - most people have altered it from the original. You coulby dmould - Ormerod
It could be the thermistor connection, but more likely to be the bed connection failing. Check your repair, and also tighten all the terminal block screws on the Duet and 5V board (if fitted). The syptom of a failed bed connector is that the LED on the Bed does not light even though the bed LED on the Duet (D6) is lit. New bed heaters are not all that expensive. This one looks pretty good:by dmould - Ormerod
QuoteTreito I have no issues with the spring-loaded Extruder. It is not skipping, but I get symptoms of an unstable frame like the ghost shadows at old analogue antenna tv.. You may find that that is in fact an extruder artefact rather than XY table. Not only the print bed, but also the extruder must slow down at each corner, and this changes the pressure in the Bowden tube. The change can cauby dmould - Ormerod
QuoteTreito ... I am also designing a new CoreXY-Printer. ... The main difference between us is that I want to keep the moved mass as low as possible so I will use two bowden Extruders. Does that mean that you will be using a fixed bed and moving the hotend(s) with your CoreXY mechanism? The Bowden effect is causing the most issues in my prints, as it is impossible to get the extrusion rate coby dmould - Ormerod
Slic3r uses STL files as input, which cannot have curved surfaces (curves are simulated with many short straight sections). The 3D printer controller will always have to do a similar transformation even if it supports circles in the G-code (not many printers do), so you won't gain anything anyway. Daveby dmould - Slic3r
The print speed is limited more by the maximum extruder speed that the max XY speed. At .25mm layer height my extruder will start skipping if I print long runs much faster than 70mm/s. The limitation is not only in the power of the extruder motor, but in how fast heat is transferred to the filament in the nozzle. At fast extrusion speeds the filament is being pushed into the nozzle faster thanby dmould - Ormerod
Quotemat_fr ... so I wondered if sunlight (ambiant, not direct, but still could matter) could light some corners more than the others. It can in X, but not in Y (because all Y positions are at the same place relative to the light - it is the bed that moves in Y, not the probe) Daveby dmould - Ormerod