You might also increase the stepper currents to 1 amp (1000mA). Edit the config.g file in the sys folder of the SD card (M906 command). That cured my Y slipping problem. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
QuoteKevM Well I'm in the UK (Essex) so if I turn the heating off in here it's pretty damn cold Has anyone discovered the ideal ambient for printing ABS ? I'm also in the UK, and as said, printing in a room heated to 22 or 23 degrees C is fine. Much colder than 17 deg C, and the bed won't get to 100 degrees. I use 250 for hotend, 100-105 bed for first layer and 90-95 bed for other layers. Daby dmould - Ormerod
Quotetru168 KevM : 4 parts that will fail fast once you print ABS : Fan Duct, Heat sink duct, nozzle mount and X carriage. the nozzle mount need to be printed a few more extra in PLA first because it might fail before you successfully print one complete ABS part. I tried 4 times without success, cause by our ambient temperature. if your country temperature reads far below mine then you will be sby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedavidsmith_uk I can't see how the Duet ever passed USB manufacturing test - Not happy about the poor quality and having to fix manufacturing faults. It may well have passed the manufacturing test. When SMD pads are not soldered, they often still make sufficient contact to pass the factory test, but later contact is lost due to movement or oxidation and the board no longer works. It is somby dmould - Ormerod
Just to confirm that I experience the same knocking noise that I have been unable to track down - the bearings and threaded rod are all concentric. I will investigate further. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
To take a reading of the hotend with an external thermocouple thermometer, you can either jam the thermocouple head into the hole next to the thermistor (my thermocouple fits OK, but careful you don't damage the sleeving over the thermistor), or remove the filament and take the clip and Bowden tube out of the extruder block, then feed the thermocouple down the Bowden tube until it bottoms insideby dmould - Ormerod
Quotebadman.teddy.edward Damn straight. I work in an industry where development of new ideas is really slow and this has enabled me to start trying those ideas far quicker. (Really though it is custom parts for RC things that makes me happiest).. Yup - I am happiest (and most creative) when I can design empirically. Spending days or even weeks on design verification, and then months waiting forby dmould - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks I also print solely ABS, using the shipped PSU (alpine I think). It is a little slow to get up to 100°C, but it seems quite adequate in my climate (UK "winter" with or without heating). Ray What time does your printer take to get to 100, Ray? Mine takes just under 35 minutes from 22 deg ambient - and my previous measurements under the glass show that the Duet's temperature readinby dmould - Ormerod
I think the sensor performs its job better if it is shielded by a short tube to stop light from any direction but straight down. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Quotebobc Lots of people in RepRap community use the Mk2 heatbed, most of them use 12V PSU, and many of them print ABS. There is lots of experience with this setup.. I'm using my own PC PSU (the RRP one was DOA) and printing ABS. With all heaters on the voltage measured at the Duet input is 11.72V - slightly low but not excessively so. I print ABS fine BUT have to wait a heck of a long time foby dmould - Ormerod
A 45 degree overhang means that the perimeter at the overhang extends out by the layer height every layer - usually 0.24mm for standard Slic3r settings. With a perimeter width of .5mm (also standard), that means that just over 50% of the extruded width overlaps the previous layer's perimeter. In my experience it doesn't require that amount of overlap - in fact for many shapes it works absolutelby dmould - Ormerod
Quotebobc Why not use a second hand server PSU? 60 A @ 12V for £9.99 delivered? It is by far the best value for money, and has safe mains wiring. It's very easy to jumper the control pins to turn it on. All that needs doing is soldering wires to 12V outputs, it's not worth trying to find a mating connector. There are loads of 30A units (ESP113, PS-3381) which are easy to use as well, similar oby dmould - Ormerod
Quotebadman.teddy.edward I can take a series of zeros and ones I created or someone else did and kindly decided to share with me and produce from them a shape desired by myself, whilst in my home, out of ABS or PLA very ACCURATELY. How can I complain about that? My life, as far as plastic reproduction goes is sorted. Serious big thank you to RepRapPro, Ian, DC42, and the rest of the contributorsby dmould - Ormerod
I was looking only at a cheap and viable way of powering the Ormerod adequately rather than a high quality smooth regulated PSU. The Ormerod does not require a regulated 12V supply. Regarding the smoothing, it will be powering the fan, the stepper motors and possibly the Duet board's electronics. I therefore feel that we might get away with an extremely rough output. I have very little experiby dmould - Ormerod
Quoterm2014 That's not necessarily true- If your moulder goes bust you will lose all your tools not just one, replacements could cost 100's of 1000's. Oh, I agree regarding tools that cost 100's of 1000's. However this began regarding using Protomold - and in that case we are talking only a few 1000 per tool. As said, we use steel tools (that we own) for long-running products, so Protomold donby dmould - Ormerod
Quoterm2014 Have they unwittingly, or intentionally managed to get the community to debug their product for them? This is a model that software companies use often, they just release early and let the early users report on the bugs. This is a great way to cut development costs and get product to market, I've used it myself. Now that RRP have generated some cash it will make it easier for them tby dmould - Ormerod
I was just looking at some Youtube vids of a DIY spot welder, and thought the same technique could be used to make an analogue DIY 12V (or higher) PSU very cheaply. It uses a transformer from a discarded microwave oven, which commonly have their primary and secondary windings separated. In the oven it is a step-up transformer (and very lethal) to supply the magnetron with a few thousand volts,by dmould - Ormerod
I swapped the fan with RS part 758-8207. It is pretty much silent (drowned by the PSU fan). It blows a bit less, but seems to cool perfectly adequately (I have taken extensive temperature measurements). Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
I also set the bed parameters by hand each time rather than using a fixed setbed.g file, because I have found that the slope of the bed changes every time I take off and replace the glass (though it has become considerably better after I made some alterations to the bed, so I may be able to dispense with that now). Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Quoteiamburny I committed a New Version of the web interface today, a few more features, but mostly re-arranging thing to make room for the new features that are planned, I've tried to categories the different aspects of the interface and have utilised Tabbed Pages to arrange these categories, a few bugs have been fixed, and first test implementation of the Layer Print Time chart is added, with tby dmould - Ormerod
Quotejohneato Dave Your a star, thats fixed it. I have just looked at the saved additional profile. The original Ormerod profile is stored in three folders each containing an Ormerod.ini. My profile has saved as a single file. Is this okay? Thanks for your prompt reply. John Yes, that's correct. There is a separate configuration file for each of the Slic3r main parameters (Print settings, Filaby dmould - Ormerod
QuoteTommy1 Hi people, I just used the above "bossac --port=COMx -U true -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-XXX-DD-MM-YYYY.bin -R" which I hope has worked for me. I got a message saying:- "Erase flash No such file or directory" Tom You should enter the path and filename of the actual firmware update file that you want to install, which is in the "release" directory of the RepRapFirmware-Master directoby dmould - Ormerod
In the "Printer settings" of Slic3r, (you may have to be in "advanced mode"), look at the "Custom G-code" settings. The chances are that that is where the offending 65 deg command comes from. Just change it (and maybe save to a different profile name - I now have several different profiles to select from) Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Myself and other people have asked about software that can manipulate STL files. I've just come across this, which may be of interest : Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
It could be that your glass plate is domed, but it could also be that your laser-cut Perspex X-axis plate is bowed. This is causing your hotend to tilt from side to side as the X-axis bearing runs along the side of the plate, and that in turn changes your Z height slightly (it will also put a bow in your prints). Put a straightedge along the side of the Perspex where the bearing runs to check.by dmould - Ormerod
I'll second arnaud31's point. I bought quite a few 10m samples of various colours and types of filament (being under £3 each) from the same supplier, and printed out some small test parts just to have examples of what's available. Most were ABS filaments, but I was amazed at how the prints varied from colour to colour. My normal prints are all from the same reel of black ABS, and I found afterby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I've implemented this in the firmware build at . I also made doing a G92 command set the appropriate "axis has been homed" flags. I'm not certain that enforcing Z=0 as the minimum height is a good idea, because it means that after homing Z, if you put the head over the bed at a point where the bed is lower, you can't drop the head any more unless you do e.g. a G92 Z1 first. Maybe I shoby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedieterzar I was going to comment yesterday but didn't get a chance. I must apologize, I often use my tablet to post and things go wongkey typing sometimes! @dmould What you talk about is how the chinese changed the world. They don't worry about quality of supply or supply chain audits. I import a lot and high standards and quality control don't make china cheap as a supplier! After all it cby dmould - Ormerod
Quoterm2014On a commercial point any business would be mad not to have control of its production tooling, if there is a problem (and eventually there always is) the damage caused will be severe, you just cannot make stuff to sell until the tools are replaced, which will kill your cash-flow. All our principal tooling is duplicated and held at two different moulders, one of which went bust last yeaby dmould - Ormerod
Quoterm2014...power 3d printers draw approx. 0.018 kWh RM A good analysis, RM, though I think you are a decimal point out with that power consumption. While printing ABS, my Ormerod consumes over 200W (0.2kW), so 1kWh every 5 hours, or 0.1kWh per part, assuming an average 30 minute build time. Maybe less with PLA as the bed heater has a lower duty cycle. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod