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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: In defence of Ormerod - 12 years ago
Quotearnaud31 Quotedmould "Protomold" (http://www.protolabs.co.uk/) for low to medium volumes. Dave (#106) Very interesting link for another project I am working on. Would be interesting to find the life of the moulds as when I last looked into this, injection moulding moulds where anywhere from £50k to £150k a piece. Thanks Dave. RM has mentioned another company & methodology that may wby dmould - Ormerod
Re: No more than 24 file listed from SD with M20 command - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 If you are printing on Kapton, you put the white tape or paper under the Kapton, then you can still print on that area. One concern is that the thickness of the tape or white paper affects the bed height at that point. So you need to use thin tape or thin paper. Even if you want to avoid printing over the tapes, you can still print e.g. a circular object almost 200mm in diameter. I'm pby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Idle musings on mass production - 12 years ago
QuoteRadianDave got me thinking; maybe it's been thought of and knocked down already but how about making it a pyramid game? Everyone who buys a printer is given the opportunity to sell back printed parts to RRP ...kind of like getting a deposit back. It strikes me that a significant part of the purchase cost could be discounted in a scheme such as this. Anyway, probably unworkable but I'm justby dmould - Ormerod
Re: No more than 24 file listed from SD with M20 command - 12 years ago
Quotedc42Of course you can put tape on the corners of the glass. If you are still using foldback clips then I suggest you look at the photo frame clips that many of us are using instead. They only encroach the Y axis by 3mm at each end. I don't understand your point about offsetting the tape in the X direction. Sure, the sensor is offset from the nozzle, but sensor will still be able to determineby dmould - Ormerod
Re: support structures - need help - 12 years ago
Just to add that the best printing angle is not necessarily the best if the part is structural. Printed parts are much weaker along the Z axis (the layers easily sheer) than in the XY plane. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: In defence of Ormerod - 12 years ago
Quotearnaud31Although I only print PLA for "health&safety" reason I think you are right, some ABS parts would have made sense. Perhaps RepRap could have this as an option, for another £10-£20 i am sure there would be a lot of takers. I guess the problem for RepRap is that they print their parts, rather than say injection mould it (which would be prohibitive), and ABS is too much hassle for prby dmould - Ormerod
Re: A general question about CAD - 12 years ago
I use the free DesignSpark at home, and a more sophisticated (and expensive) CAD system at work. It's a bit of a pain because the two are similar in many ways, but the differences catch me out quite often! Three issues with Designspark so far. The first is that it renders circular parts terribly! You end up with a very definite polygon shape instead of a circle. The second is the way that enby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod disconnected - 12 years ago
Quotedroftarts The baud rate certainly matters with other boards that use a serial to USB chip, like the FTDi chip on the Melzi, as the baud rate is set in the firmware. It is also set in the Duet firmware ( line 184). However, I don't know how significant this is, and I've never actually tried changing it with the Duet, and don't have one with me to test! Ian RepRapPro tech support Sure, a seby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Anyone tried different plastics? - 12 years ago
QuoteOrmerod187 Some helpful ... The acetal resin should be kept dry!!! Keep the roll closed in a plastic bag with a lot of desiccant gel....just make a hole for the filament. Forget the printing on glass, maybe better printing on PLA bed, 0.25 could suffice. As for the PLA there are many different mixture, I'm looking for 3D printing-friendly... Is a resin tough to work... 1.75 is much betterby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Circle GCode issue - 12 years ago
Seems you found the problem, but I'll add that homing the X axis does not always work if the Z height is close to zero and over an area of white tape - e.g. just after homing the Z axis. This is because there can be enough light getting to the IR sensor to fool it into thinking it is over the X home tab. The X home code moves the Z up and the X out a bit, but it can be insufficient to stop thatby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod disconnected - 12 years ago
Does the baud rate setting actually make any difference? If my understanding is correct, the USB driver is designed to "look like" a normal serial port to the calling application, and so contains a baud rate setting (and parity, stop bits etc.) just for compatibility - they don't have any function. The data is sent over the USB at whatever of the standard USB speeds the device has connected atby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Updated commissioning instructions - 12 years ago
Quotebadman.teddy.edward - the positioning of the z axis. Again, whilst perhaps not a problem for many people, the importance of ensuring that it is a perfect right angle to the y axis could be stressed a little more. I am new to this hobby, have not yet finished the set up (finalising the bed atm), but could see if people just fixed it to the y axis without much thought as to the consequence ofby dmould - Ormerod
Re: No more than 24 file listed from SD with M20 command - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 QuotePaulHam Does the paper/tape need to be underneath the kapton tape? Only if you want to print right up to the corners where the tape/paper is. Except that you cannot put the tape on the corners of the glass. The tape must be offset in the -ve X direction due to the displacement of the sensor from the nozzle and cannot be at the Y edges because the head fouls the clips. So the taby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Anyone tried different plastics? - 12 years ago
QuoteOrmerod187 Nylon is not suitable for gears, the acetal it's ok.... But the PLA is more a friendly for the planet and less dangerous for us. Print Acetal, ABS, Nylon, better to be ventilated places... be careful to emissions! Dario Hmm - the melting point of acetal seems suitable for the Ormerod. I wonder if it's available in filament form? OTOH I have just seen this: It allows youby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Detailed proposal for IR sensor modulation - 12 years ago
One thing to consider: When you take a reference measurement, you are measuring the distance of the nozzle from the bed, not the IR sensor. You may think that the difference in height between the two is a fixed value so doesn't matter, but its value changes if the slope of the glass changes between prints (because the bed has moved). So the reference height really needs to be adjusted by compuby dmould - Ormerod
Re: adding axis stop/homing switches to Z and X - 12 years ago
Quotetracyb Can I make another suggestion to this as well. I always home my X and Y when I start up the machine while the bed starts to heat up. But because of my computer/machine setup I sometimes get confused as to positive or negative X and Y movements. (This is because I am sitting behind the machine). This means that sometimes I tell the machine to move off the end of the table - making it tby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Prerequisites for printing? - 12 years ago
QuoteGregL How long does the Ormaxis take to print? Greg A long time! Going from memory, at least 3 hours. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod disconnected - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotetru168 Yes, I soldered the USB before I assemble the kit. None of commercial printers / CNC / etc will use micro USB because its not long lasting. Micro-USB seems adequate for charging mobile phones, and they get connected/disconnected very frequently over their ~2 year lifetime. But the Duet could just have easily used full-size USB. I'm constructing a wishlist for the next reby dmould - Ormerod
Re: First Layer - 12 years ago
Quotejohneato Dave Thanks for your help. I have consecutively printed a further 5 pieces and all have been perfect. So it is clearly a start up problem. In the morning I will follow your procedure and see what happens John I should add that I am printing ABS - don't use such a high temperature with PLA, but still wait for the bed to heat before zeroing the Z. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Anyone tried different plastics? - 12 years ago
Looking at one of the a filament suppliers I have used (http://3dfilaprint.com/shop/) it seems they have a few plastics other than PLA and ABS, and I was wondering whether anyone has tried them. Nylon interests me in particular because of its strength (might be good for gears for example), and the write-up indicates the temperatures are about the same as I use for ABS. There is also an elasticby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Slic3r Help Please - 12 years ago
As a thought - I know some of the RRP STL files were updated at some point. I have always downloaded the latest ZIP file of all the parts from the Ormerod master before slicing so I know I have the latest. In fact that may be why my gear printed with hollow teeth at first, but not after I changed the infill setting. Perhaps the STL had been updated in between and the infill setting had nothingby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Prerequisites for printing? - 12 years ago
I found that if the plastic gears are stiff to turn, first remove and file off any obvious nibs with a needle file, then reassemble and put a bit of valve grinding paste on the teeth and rotate by hand for a while to wear them in (paste available in car parts stores, e.g. "Halfords" in the UK). Then wash off all the paste and replace with a small dab of grease before putting back into service.by dmould - Ormerod
Re: First Layer - 12 years ago
Make sure the bed is getting to the working temperature before zeroing the Z axis. If you zero when it is stone-cold, it will be out slightly after it is heated. I print the first layer at 100 deg, and wait until the bed has reached at least 80 deg before zeroing and doing bed compensation measurements. A wizard would indeed be great - I do it all by hand by raising the nozzle 2 mm, entering tby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod disconnected - 12 years ago
Also check that your USB connector is properly soldered on the Duet board, and that the plug is fully inserted. The design of those small USB connectors are terrible IMO! Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: First Layer - 12 years ago
I agree with dc42 that that is most likely the reason. I zero the Z axis and find the bed set figures by hand before every print. It is a PITA, but I find the bed slope changes slightly between prints so if I use a fixed "setbed" file I do not get consistent results. I do it while the bed is heating, so at least it doesn't cost any extra printing time. The blobby first layer is very typical oby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Prerequisites for printing? - 12 years ago
Take out the tongue that holds the bowden tube into the extruder, and extrude 300mm of filament - which will push the bowden tube out of the extruder and give you a length of filament to the bowden tube. Then heat the hotend to 200 and try to extrude by pushing the filament into the bowden tube by hand. If that is not possible or requires very strong force, set the hotend temperature to 240 degby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Just returned my Ormerod - 12 years ago
Quotedroftarts Ahem. Thread hijack? Not that I am keen for this thread to disappear, or anything... (actually, you're right, I am!) Ian RepRapPro tech support OK, let's change the subject - Ian, is droftarts near nodnol, or am I thinking of nova-no-droftarts? Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Just returned my Ormerod - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 If the Duet is receiving power from USB only, then the stepper motors are not running, and saving the position is not of interest. That depends what order you switched off the machine - 12V first, or unplug USB first ... Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Re: RF Noise problem - 12 years ago
If you want to make a rig for frequencies higher than UHF, you can make quite a powerful transmitter from the parts in a microwave oven ... Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Releasing a print - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotedmould The H&S inspector even measures the temperature of the water from our hot taps to make sure it is barely warm. I remember my H&S inspections when I ran a company with 20 employees. On the first one, the inspector found a trailing cable (trip hazard) which he told us to get rid of, but said everything else was OK. For the second, we made sure there were no trailing cby dmould - Ormerod