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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: ABS help - 12 years ago
QuoteKimBrown Hot Bed Issues:- If you are ok with electrical stuff, and not the type that cuts down 6" nails for fuses then here's a suggestion....(I'm teasing)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: Just returned my Ormerod - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotedmould Besides which, the board does not know when power is about to be removed, and after it is switched off it is too late to store anything! So the duet would have to store all changes continuously just in case it's about to be switched off - and erasing and re-flashing takes too long to do that between every move, besides wearing out the flash. Actually, it would be quite easby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Slic3r Help Please - 12 years ago
QuotePaulHam Quotedmould My first gear had hollow teeth also. Fixed by changing the "infill" setting to 0.6 Is that the infill density? Sorry, yes, that's the one I changed. i think the default was 0.4? Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: I want a thermally activated Fan 
- 12 years ago
Quotedc42 The problem I see with that approach is that the voltage at the non-ground end of the thermistor is very close to the +3.3V supply voltage at low temperatures. So you really need to have that voltage available to compare it with - and you definitely need it if you want to detect an open-circuit thermistor, which I think is a necessary safety precaution. If the op-amp (comparator) is ruby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Slic3r Help Please - 12 years ago
My first gear had hollow teeth also. Fixed by changing the "infill" setting to 0.6by dmould - Ormerod
Quieting the fan - 12 years ago
Due to complaints in the office about the fan noise from the Ormerod (despite having reasonably sound absorbing screens around my work area), I sought something quieter rather than being banished to print away from my desk/bench. I changed the fan to RS part 758-8207. This is so quiet that at first switch-on I thought it was not receiving power (with the deflector fitted you cannot see the bladby dmould - Ormerod
Re: I want a thermally activated Fan - 12 years ago
My ad-hoc approach would be to tap into the 12V supply to the fan and whichever thermistor wire changes voltage with temperature (I don't have the circuit to hand). Run the thermistor wire to one input (+ if voltage increases with temperature, else -) of any op-amp (used as a comparator) capable of handling a 12V supply, the other op-amp input goes to a potentiometer used as a potential dividerby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Printing issue - blobby edges - 12 years ago
Unfortunately the only solution I have found so far to that issue is a needle file :-( Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: Just returned my Ormerod - 12 years ago
There is no way the board can store the positions of any axis during a power down. Besides the fact that all the axis could easily be moved while power is off so it would be risky to rely on, when power is removed and re-applied to the steppers they often move a step or two even if you don't touch anything. From observation, I think that all positions are reset to zero at power-up - so if you sby dmould - Ormerod
Re: homemade ormerod? - 12 years ago
Quoterayhicks ... snip ... you'll need to get an optical Z probe from RRP though if you want to home Z and X (it checks reflected light from the bed, and from a piece of plastic at the right height near the home position of X rather than using two microswitches). Ray It would be easy enough to wire a microswitch to work on the Duet for X homing. Assuming the microswitch is normally closed andby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Releasing a print - 12 years ago
I'm not that bothered about H&S at home (much of it is OTT, and at my age I no longer worry about long-term effects that take many decades to materialise!), but at work I have to be careful about possible claims that I am endangering other employees. The H&S inspector even measures the temperature of the water from our hot taps to make sure it is barely warm. At home I have it set so Iby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Releasing a print - 12 years ago
Quotejohneato Just received my first reel of ABS so I'll give it a go. Picking up the new pieces of glass tomorrow so if the glass does break I'll have a spare Have fun! To recap my experience - set bed to 100 deg for first layer, then down to 90 (helps stop warping). Put a sheet of white cardboard or something over the bed while it is heating to get it to temperature more quickly (it still taby dmould - Ormerod
Re: duet-enclosure too small - 12 years ago
Quotedc42Would you care to share your design? It might look neater than the cat food box and piece of dowel that I am using! Unfortunately I didn't keep those files when I changed my PC - it was not my design, I downloaded it from thingyverse. It's not very good - needs to be weighted down (see photo) and used a huge amount of plastic. There were a few different designs I saw on there. I desiby dmould - Ormerod
Re: RF Noise problem - 12 years ago
Quotetru168 See? Repraper's usually share common interest ! 73! 9W2ECG Going back quite a few years - I used to be ZE1FY (later Z21FY). Then Z21FY/MM for 5 years. Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: Still warping ... - 12 years ago
It was an interesting exercise to hack a printed part. It's quite tough, but behaves like wood in that it splits more easily "with the grain" (layers), than across the "grain". Something to bear in mind when deciding on how to orient any structural parts for printing. The X and Y arms of "ormaxis" for example would take a far higher load on their ends than the Z axis column. I might do some sby dmould - Ormerod
Re: The Progression of Kit278 - 12 years ago
Quotedc42 I'm not sure you would gain very much. The steppers work reliably for me, except when there have been firmware bugs that cause them to be driven too fast. The only penny-pinching I see is in the selection of a low-end ATX PSU - but the ones supplied appear to be adequate at least for PLA printing. Because ATX PSUs are so standard, it is a simple matter to substitute a better one, such aby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Still warping ... - 12 years ago
Thanks, Ray. Just vandalised my fan mounts with a hacksaw to copy you (you are a bad influence!). Printed the two Z gears, and they look OK. The extruder can now sit at 250 for the entire print - it used to sag down to 240 or so. The cooling block remains cool to the touch. I noticed that the fan mount I printed from the github is different to the part supplied - it has dividers in the air cby dmould - Ormerod
Re: duet-enclosure too small - 12 years ago
I think most people will be buying larger spools from far less expensive sources, so the spool holder is going to become redundant PDQ (it won't support a large reel). One of my first printing jobs was a separate spool holder! Dave (#106)by dmould - Ormerod
Re: The Progression of Kit278 - 12 years ago
Well, having been bitten by the 3D printing bug, I will probably design & build a completely different, beefier machine during the year as a hobby, using experience I'm gaining while using & modifying this one. Probably basing it on one of the many RepRap proven designs. The problem with mass-produced goods is that the designer is constrained by having to save pennies on each part (as Iby dmould - Ormerod
Re: IR sensor readings. - 12 years ago
I've not yet looked at the datasheet for that MCU, but as a thought, where is the download boot code located? If it is in an on-chip EEPROM, a new MCU will need "factory" programming via its JTAG port (or however it's done with that MCU - different processors tend to use different techniques).by dmould - Ormerod
Re: Printing spares from supported files - 12 years ago
I noticed that the file posted has a retract length of 1. 4 works much better to eliminate stringing and blobbing.by dmould - Ormerod
Re: duet-enclosure too small - 12 years ago
I've not got around to even trying to fit the lid yetby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Releasing a print - 12 years ago
With my ABS prints, which I make on glass coated with solvent cement rather than Kapton, I remove the glass and put it on the bench, and after a minute or two cooling I'll hear a sharp "crack" and the print then pulls off easily. (I expect one day the "crack" will be the glass breaking instead of the print freeing itself). If I'm going to make another print I leave the bed heater switched on, pby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Still warping ... - 12 years ago
Well, after printing and replacing the fan and extruder parts in ABS in case the PLA ones started failing with the high ABS temperatures, I finally got around to printing my test case again. Success! No warping at all, and it is certainly good enough for prototyping purposes, which is what the Ormerod was bought for. It's taken about a month to get there, but finally made it! Still a few moreby dmould - Ormerod
Re: The Progression of Kit278 - 12 years ago
I'm guessing here ... Plastic shrinks as it cools, so I suppose to get really accurate dimensions you have to scale your 3D model up by a small constant factor. Nothing I have made so far needs such precision, so I've not gone into it. I guess the RepRapPro STL is scaled for PLA shrinkage, and ABS has a different shrinkage (I think it shrinks less than PLA, BICBW). Having said that, the ABS eby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 318 finally makes something useful 
- 12 years ago
Yes, I'd not thought about quadcopters before browsing the thingyverse after getting my Ormarod, but now I definitely want one with FPV! My memories of R/C flying consists of an hour trying to get the glowplug engine to run properly followed by a 2 minute flight, a crash, and back home to make repairs ...by dmould - Ormerod
Re: I think my fan is starting to fail - 12 years ago
Quotechriscain Oops, picked the wrong live from the order !! 492-4332 Fan,40x40x20mm 12V 9000rpm 21.6 m3/h A bit noisier than the orig, probably because the higher RPM but more air flow, and suposedly high quality bearings to last 300,000 hours Chris My replacement fan is a higher airflow than the original (which started rubbing and making a heck of a racket). After changing it, my extrudby dmould - Ormerod
Re: Help Please (Trying to Commission the Printer) - 12 years ago
Quotereprappro Yes. Change the gateway address to 192.168.0.1 and the ip address of the printer to 192.168.0.## where ## is a number that isn't another device's ip address on the network. Ian RepRapPro tech support Not all gateway routers default to a ".1" address. Mine is ".254" for example. Open (run) "command prompt" on your PC and enter "ipconfig" in that window - it will return the gatewby dmould - Ormerod
Re: RF Noise problem - 12 years ago
Quotetru168 I'm in Malaysia , no digital TV yet :-( Gosh, the Omerod certainly gets around! Digital TV is a mixed blessing - too much commercial temptation to squeeze in more channels by over-compressing to reduce the bit-rate. Plus the general rule is that the more channels you have, the lower the quality of each. The RF noise your Omerod makes is probably more interesting to watch than mostby dmould - Ormerod
Re: What to have in a spares kit? - 12 years ago
And for safety, probably best to keep the company's backup machine off-site - such as at my home!by dmould - Ormerod