Hmm ... Tried various things with some success, but still not there. Firstly I realised this morning that I had inadvertently made yesterday's print using conductive ABS instead of ordinary black ABS. The conductive ABS, which feels like it contains graphite filler, has several undesirable properties, so I printed again with normal ABS and incorporated some of your suggestions. 1) Took off thby dmould - Ormerod
I mentioned in other posts, but I'll say again for the benefit of those who have not read those threads that after I printed a new X-carriage (on which the Z axis light probe mounts) in black plastic, it unexpectedly made all the difference to the Z homing reliability - with the extruder touching the glass (Z=0) the reading is well within range, so you could even make 0 your set point (I'm usingby dmould - Ormerod
I do not trust either the bed or extruder temperature reports from the supplied sensors - I suspect mine under-read by lots. After finding my contact digital thermometer was broken, I thought of getting a IR non-contact thermometer, but found that the best minimum spot size (min size of area to be measured) of any that I can find that are in stock is 13mm - too big to measure the extruder, and Iby dmould - Ormerod
Yes, sorry to hear that, J. Construction was certainly challenging, but in my case it provided me with not only an enjoyable Christmas holiday of tinkering, but also a productive one. Far better than arguing with the family! My first reel of PLA filament and half of the second was used up by the new year and is now transformed into a set of speaker shelves on my picture rail, a replacement insby dmould - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks Your Kapton looks a little fluffy - is it dust or is it a bit hacked up? I haven't had problems adhering to hacked up Kapton ,but I imagine dusty/fluffy Kapton wouldn't let the abs grip What temperature measurer are you going for? I think Ian mentioned they use a pointing thermometer at rrp for the bed, I'm tempted to pop down to Maplin and pick one up soon so I can have a betby dmould - Ormerod
I still get lifting at the rear (i.e. low X side) if the print is longer than about 5cm. I've tried a couple of different fan deflector designs. Watching my latest print however, I'm not convinced the lifting is due to the fan backwash, because the print is narrow enough across the Y axis that the fan intake only just crosses its left-hand edge, and is not there for long when it does, plus I cby dmould - Ormerod
Quotereprappro dmould - well, they won't fit the Ormerod! I can't even work out what nozzle they are for... not J-head, which is one of the most popular. Did it come with any info? Ian RepRapPro tech support No, no info - only just took one out of the packet to take a photo Daveby dmould - Ormerod
If I set speeds greater than about 25mm/s (printing or non-printing), my Y axis skips occasionally.by dmould - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts We sell a 0.5mm nozzle (standard in the kit) and 0.3mm nozzle. I'm not sure what dmould's 3DFilaPrint 0.4 nozzle is. Picture? Ian RepRapPro tech support Still cannot "create link in message" so you'll have to open the attachment! Daveby dmould - Ormerod
I recently received a couple of reels of ABS from "3DFilaPrint" and found they had included a complimentary 0.4mm nozzle with each reel.by dmould - Ormerod
Thankyou for sharing your activities, your kit sounds great for prototype PCB making. Watch out for under-etching on such fine traces, leaving a track with almost no area adhering to the board. Having fine but readable silkscreen markings will certainly be a great help on tight & dense SMD boards.by dmould - Ormerod
Have you oiled the Z screw thread? Also check the gear teeth are smooth, and tidy with a needle file if not. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Still cannot insert photos(the "create link in message") does nothing for me, but some images attached. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
Also read my new post regarding the IR sensor - since I changed the X-runner (on which it mounts) to one printed in black plastic, my readings have become consistent (but much lower) and I can use the automatic Z homing without manual adjustments. I haven't tried automatic bed compensation since, but perhaps that will now work OK also.by dmould - Ormerod
I decided to print out some new parts in ABS and did a partial re-work of my Ormerod this morning. New X-carriage, Z-slider and hotend parts. Everything is a lot tighter and more stable, and runs far more smoothly, and I no longer need tape on the Z extrusion or a hacksaw blade on the X extrusion (though I am using a 10mm bearing on the X carriage). Lubricated the Zscrew and runners with 3-in-by dmould - Ormerod
I use a combination of IR sensor and manual adjustment. My Z-home macro (homez.g) code is: M561 ; Remove bed compensation M120 ; Push feedrate & absolute/relative positioning G91 ; Set relative movement G1 Z5 F200 ; Move up 5mm G90 ; set absolute movemeby dmould - Ormerod
Quoteluposlip Noone found another reason for this issue? I'm seing the same. It worked just fine. Then I updated the config.g with new Z-axis calibration values and re-inserted the SD card (printer turned off). I see this issue every time I turn on my printer now. Have tried to format the card and copy the SD-image content onto it again. Nothing seems to work. Best, Henrik Agreed. The suppliby dmould - Ormerod
Quotechriscain It might actually be possible to get some factor of 'ambient light removal' in software only with the current set up. ... snip Chris Good idea, Chris. The idea I think would be (1) Take Z down using present sensor method to bring it roughly to within 3 mm. (2) Take Z up by a large amount so there is no light reflected from the IR LED. (3) Take several readings over at least 10by dmould - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotedmould 5) Send the command G32 Z0 to zero the Z axis. Did you mean G92 Z0 ? Yes - I've edited my post to correct that mistake - thanks for pointing it out.by dmould - Ormerod
I always home the Z axis by hand immediately before any print job as I have not found the present automatic method to be reliable. The bed compensation (G30) commands are in my config file so they are already loaded at the start, as is the axis compensation. 1) Home X and Y 2) Get the bed up to temperature and clear any plastic that may be hanging from the nozzle. 3) Ensure the nozzle is abovby dmould - Ormerod
I had this happen a couple of times. Possibly a bit of machine oil I used on the shaft got between the bearing and the slip-on printed part and made it easier to slide off. The bearing slides very easily along the shaft, so it's not that. A bit of hot-glue over the carriage & bearing has been a temporary fix. I've just ordered some circlips that hopefully will fit into the grooves at eachby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Thanks for the heads up - I'll try and sort this out tomorrow. Is it just a Windows 8 problem, or Windows 7 too? Ian RepRapPro tech support AFAIAA it's an issue with all Windoze versions, but only Win8 prevents installation - the others just warn you that the certificate is invalid and allow you to ignore it.by dmould - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks I use repetier host on the mac (on the pc it doesn't seem to control the ormerod so well Ray Thanks Ray, I've just had a brief play with Repetier, and it appears to do what I need. Daveby dmould - Ormerod
I've already sent an email to the RepRap support team, but just a heads-up that the Arduino driver will no longer install on Windows. The reason is that its certificate is not dated, which results in Windows refusing to install it after 2013. The quick & dirty workaround is to reset your PC clock to 2013, install the driver, after which you can change the clock back to the correct date. Asby dmould - Ormerod
I have some existing CAD drawings where the parts' orientation is not on a suitable plane for printing. The CAD application can output STL files but cannot as far as I can see allow you to re-orient the XYZ axes - I'm stuck with the planes how I originally designed the part when I did not have 3D printing in mind. Slic3r seems only to be able to rotate the model around its Z axis. Is there anyby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotedmould Does that mean that I will need to change all my hotend temperature settings after updating my firmware? Yes. By my calculation, the temperature which the old firmware reported as 200C will be reported by the new firmware as 188.3C. In other words, if the new firmware is accurate, then the old firmware was over-reporting by about 12C . Odd. I found I had to make all my teby dmould - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts I double-checked this today. It seems Adrian was unaware of the thermistor updates, and was using old values in the firmware: From Firmware, Platform.h, line 117 #define THERMISTOR_BETAS {3480.0, 3960.0} // Bed thermistor: RS 484-0149; EPCOS B57550G103J; Extruder thermistor: RS 198-961 We use this bed thermistor: Beta = 3988 And this hot end thermistor: Beta = 4138 This is prby dmould - Ormerod
My extruder temperature reads -9 at room temperature (+/- 20 deg). By experiment, printing with PLA is best at 185 and ABS 210, so I suspect it is under-reading more than most.by dmould - Ormerod
I bought a micro SD card from Argos (107/5711). Pricey at £18, but it was the closest store that sells such things.by dmould - Ormerod
As the glass can be trusted to be flat and unbendable, it would be better to take 3 readings rather than 4 and calculate the bed compensation from those. Any 3 points reasonably far apart and with reasonable angles between them will accurately determine the plane of the glass. One of my CNC machines at work uses a contact microphone to detect the "click" of contact between two parts. Only oneby dmould - Ormerod