Hi, I have observed an interesting phenomena and would like to know if it is normal. I have 2 Z steppers and they use their own connectors on Duet, so they are wired in series (the default configuration). Both of the steppers are identical.However during a print, one is considerably colder than the other. How is that possible? Shouldn't they be both at the same temperature? Thanksby drmaestro - Duet
Today the fuse has blown when I was trying to remove a print from the bed. The print was paused, so the heaters were on. I use a metal painting knife to remove prints from a metal bed, which uses a MK2 heated bed. I assume the problem is there and not at the hotend. I never really liked the MK2's open connectors and the idea of using a PCB, which has electricity on it, combined with a metal surfaby drmaestro - Duet
Hi, It seems that I am unable to resolve my electrical problem, as the fuse keeps blowing. So, I have decided to change to PT100. I'll buy the daughter board. Where can I buy a 4 wire PT100 sensor? If I can't find it, is it enough for me to buy a PT100 from E3D (just the sensor, not the amplifier board) Thanks...by drmaestro - Duet
I added a 250 mA glass fuse to the E1 VSSA and an endstop ground. It was so scary!! I never has to solder a wire to an already populated pin. The good news is that Duet works again Two questions: 1) I probably had this possible short at the heated bed for at least a year and a half.The RAMPS/Arduino didn't seem to be affected by it. Is Duet's ekectronics more sensitive to high currents? 2) Wouby drmaestro - Duet
So probably, with anything in plastic in this setup, we'll have ringing, as the plastic will invariably flex.by drmaestro - General
On the bed server they aren't reading any value (error) but on the paneldue they are both *273.1 degrees. My hotend is an original E3DV6 with the new thermistor cartdrige so I don't think the problem is there (I'll check it). I checked the bed and saw that one of the legs of the thermistor was nude, meaning it didn't have a plastic shrinking tube or sleeve around. The other was covered but maybeby drmaestro - Duet
Well, the printer worked well for 2 days and this problem happened just today, mid-print. Since then I can't use the heaters, as the thermistors don't report any temperature reading. I don't think it is a connector problem. It seems that there is a fuse on board (VSSA), which can blow up if there is a short somewhere. I fear that is the reason (I fear because I don't have good soldering skills, nby drmaestro - Duet
Hi, I did what you suggested.Unplugged both the hotend thermistor wire and bed thermistor wire. The resistence I read is around 90 Kohms on both of them, which probably suggests they are OK.by drmaestro - Duet
Hi, Third day with my Duet. Everything was working fine, I had realised how to use mesh leveling, had my first good print yesterday. Today, my second print stopped mid-print. There was a problem with the thermistors: Heater 1 (hotend) reports fault. If I click on Heater 1, it tells me "A heater fault has occured on this particular heater. Please turn off your machine and check your wiring forby drmaestro - Duet
So, would using a 9 mm wide GT2 belt, instead of the standard 6 mm, be better for this purpose or are we talking about wider belts?by drmaestro - General
Last week I have seen a print from a Stratasys FDM printer. There was no ringing at all? So, how do the big players prevent this? Do they use leadscrew driven X and Y axis? Larger/stiffer belts?by drmaestro - General
Thank you very much , I've got it nowby drmaestro - General
As far as I know, ringing artefacts due to the acceleration and jerk settings happen because sudden changes create vibrations. So, could using larger extrusions (4040 instead of 2020) prevent these artefacts becasue the frame is more rigid or is it still related to the relationship between the belts and the carriages? Thanks..by drmaestro - General
Hi, Recently I have been able to find a local CNC shop, so now I have the ability to cut a CNC machined Y carriage. I do have a DXF of my current carriage, so I am going to modify it. I'd like to upgrade the unsupported 8 mm chrome plated rods that the carriage uses right now. I'll have 2 options: I could use fully supported rods (minimum I can find is 12 mm) or I could use linear rails (probablby drmaestro - Reprappers
I changed the Z value to different values and interestingly it always ends up at the same height? Does anything in my starting script override it? Shall I use a G30 Z value to set the Z offset? An update: I use the G31 T command to check for the trigger height but it isn't the same with what I have in cofig.g: G31 P10 X-30 Y0 Z1.35 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height This iby drmaestro - Duet
Quotedc42 Unless you are also using the probe to do Z homing, I recommend that after homing and before probing with G29 or loading the height map, you do a single G30 probe to establish the Z=0 position more accurately than homing does. I use BLTouch for Z homing, I don't have a separate endstop. Shall I still do what you told me here?by drmaestro - Duet
+1 for Duet. I am probably on a very similar path with DjDemonD (Ramps-Rearm-DuetWifi). Duet is the most professional and I also find it quite easy to use despite the differences with Marlin. Mr. David is very active on the forum, even for other non Duet related subjects. I somehow didn't get along with Smoothieware. It could be due to the fact that I didn't use Smoothieboard but I had consby drmaestro - General
Hi, I have some difficulty understanding the implementation of bed leveling in Duet Wifi. My problem is with the Z offset between the switch (BLTouch) and the hotend's nozzle. In Marlin you could set it in the firmware. In Smoothieware you had to use a G30 Zx.x command to set it at the beginning of the g code. In Duet, I can use BLTouch to probe the bed and create a height map. Then, I have adby drmaestro - Duet
These are 2080s? Do you have any wobble on the mediolateral direction?by drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I am about to start using duet wifi. I have a BLTouch and I need to wire a 240 ohms resistor in parallel to its wires. What is the best method to do this? Can anyone with a similar setup post a picture of that portion? Shall I remove the connector at the end of bltouch and solder it there (as it will have to be removed anyway, as the pin connections will require individual wiring to specificby drmaestro - Duet
Quotechris33 Quotedrmaestro 3) I checked your web site and the only option for buying is to use Paypal. Do you plan on supporting other payment methods? Unfortunately, we can't use Paypal since June 2016 here (Turkey), so this makes it quite problematic to make an acquisition (that problem also exists for Flex3drive I think) Thanks If you have a problem with paypal then its a paypal issue theby drmaestro - General
Quotedc42 The alternative hot end mounting system that E3D is prototyping may help with this. Do you have any link for that?by drmaestro - General
QuoteLykle First of all, I like these kind of posts as they ask for honest opinions and facts. I don't want a mud fight either and will never put a competitor down, so I will only talk about the Nimble. That keeps it clean. I can tell you exactly where and why we feel the Nimble is better, but I would prefer to have an independent reviewer comment on it. So in that respect you will have to waitby drmaestro - General
Quotedc42 The IDEX (dual X carriage solution) is probably the best solution, but also the most expensive. You don't need to get the nozzles exactly the same height unless you want to print 2 identical parts simultaneously using both hot ends, because each hot end can have its own Z offset. You can use bed probing and bed compensation. There is quite a lot of discussion about this type of machineby drmaestro - General
Quotedc42 Why not work out what pulse rate your extruder is demanding? Step rate = stes_per_mm * retraction_speed_in_mm_per_minute/60 Example: 3587 steps/mm * 3600mm/min speed / 60 = 209.241 KHz I believe the default maximum pulse rate for Smoothieware is 100kHz, but you may be able to change that in the configuration. How about Duet Wifi? My Duet arrived yesterday so I'd like to know if I'llby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, Today I have tried to change my extruder's stepper motor (1.8 degrees) with a 0.9 degree motor. I have doubled the steps/mm (it is at 3587 now at 1/64 microstepping). It is extruding nicely but the retraction speed is probably halved. I tried to increase the retraction acceleration, the retraction speed in the slicing software but these changes didn't increase the speed. Am I hitting the pulby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, I am trying to decide which dual material setup is the most useful one for my situation. My main area of interest will be printing objects with soluble supports. I am not that much interested in dual color printing but dual material printing could also be interesting. My actual setup uses the Y splitter commected to the hotend, driven by 2 Titans. If it is setup nicely, it can print nice 2by drmaestro - General
The flexing is mostly on the mediolateral direction. The anteroposterior direction is quite stable. The 2040 would probably be advantageous here, as it won't require any hardware (nuts and bolts) change, as it will have the same channel dimension. The real problem here would be related to the distance between the lateral vertical extrusions and the heated bed, which is approximately 10 mm on eaby drmaestro - Reprappers
Hi, My printer's main construction is based on 20x20 aluminium extrusions. It is a 20x20x20 cm cartesian unit. While I tried to make it solid using additional metal plaques or joining components, it still flexes, especially on the upper parts.My current geometric configuration would allow me to change these extrusions to 30x30s with only some minor design changes (by using just longer T-slot nuby drmaestro - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotedrmaestro Hi, Some of the answers to the print quality questions I have posted suggested backlash or not enough tension on belts. Here is how my belt setup looks from top-down view: s You've gone to a lot of trouble and some expense to use linear guides to get high precision, but you have a fundamental error, visible in your photo. The right side attachment wheby drmaestro - Reprappers