Thanks for the suggestions o_lampe! I hadn't done the M502 and M500 thing when flashing so it was just loading the old settings. I have checked M119 and all endstops are open. I did reflash and do M502 and M500 to make sure, but it's still not working Same error.by pugzor - Printing
Hey all, I'm having a few issues with my Pi again haha. Details (inc video) are here... Would appreciate it if anyone can take a gander! It's just an autocal problem. Not sure what's the go.by pugzor - Delta Machines
Hey there, So I built a Cherry Pi III based off the design by AndyCart here (which is awesome, might I add), and I've been printing pretty well for the last few months. It's RichRap's flavour of Marlin, if that's any help. However, after getting a blocked nozzle and putting it back together again, I tried to calibrate and something went weird and a rod popped out. Put it back in and tried againby pugzor - Printing
QuoteDavid J I'm starting to pay attention to my Cherry Pi delta once more, with the aim of sorting the problems that bugged me previously. The first one is to do with the 'umbilical cord' leading to the effector: Originally I used one of dc42's IR sensors, but had problems with an uneven print. David had mentioned that having the sensor some way from the nozzle could lead to errors in some ciby pugzor - Delta Machines
It's not the greatest, as I seem to still have a problem with my filament slipping... but it's getting there!by pugzor - Delta Machines
Hey all, I'm still trying to get my delta 3D printer working well but my first layers are a bit strange. I do have raft on but the edges are a bit odd... have a look at this pic: High res version here: goo.gl/WEl4Nw You can notice that there's a bit of excess plastic but it's only on the edges furthest away from the camera. I'm not sure what causes this but if I try to print something smallerby pugzor - Printing
Ends up my filament was slipping. Fixed it up though. Had to shave a bit off some of the assembly because clamped down the bearing wasn't actually connecting with the top of the filament... Anyway, now it's printing freaking AWESOMELY. One question though; what retraction are people running? I think that's the only thing that's off for me now as my models are really messy when it jumps betweeby pugzor - Delta Machines
Well, I'm quite happy with the first print. There's adjustment to be done but overall it's one of the best my delta has put out so far. Click here for the pic Does anyone know how I can improve this? There's a few layers in the middle which came out primo, but the rest seemed to occasionally be under extruding. I'm currently using retraction; would turning that off have a positive effect? Iby pugzor - Delta Machines
As suspected it seems that the issue was the foam. Replaced it with a layer of silicone (cut from a silicone 'cake pan') and it seems great. Bolts and washers are fine, has been tested to 110 degrees Celsius. Calibrated super quick (only had a couple of minutes to take pics) and it's printing now. Looking promising.by pugzor - Delta Machines
Gentlemen, I think you will be quite humoured to know I too have been playing with heatbeds. Naturally I've hit problems too. As you'd expect most of it is to do with ignoring thermodynamics. Case in point, see the attached pics. I'd heated my bed to 80 degrees before clamping it down. Ends up the high density, high temperature rubber foam I was using tends to expand under heat, and contractsby pugzor - Delta Machines
@bower-andy, that's exactly what I did re: Z-probe and I did have to readjust the M666 H value anyway, because the 0.8mm was enough to push offsets out of range. It won't be an issue for me recalibrating when I add the heated bed as I understand the calibration process pretty well now. Yeah I've been throwing up the idea of getting some BuildTak for a while. I've been doing the cheap glue stickby pugzor - Delta Machines
Pulled the trigger on getting a heated build plate as well as an upgraded power supply. Heatbed: Power supply: I think I'll actually place the heated bed under my existing glass bed. I'm not sure how I'll attach them yet but I guess it'll involve a fair amount of thermal paste. It's probably going to be overkill but as long as I pre-heat it (so that the glass is the same temp as the bed theby pugzor - Delta Machines
Quotepugzor Hey all, Just thought I'd pop my head in and say hi as I've started collecting parts to build my own Cherry Pi III. It'll be my first 3D printer, although I've backed The Micro on Kickstarter. I'm definitely going to need some help so I figured I'd introduce myself first! So far the biggest challenge has been to locate parts within Australia as shipping really is a killer for anythiby pugzor - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart If you amend the G1 Z15 F{Z_TRAVEL_SPEED} entry to G1 Z15 F5000 all should be well I assume that'd fix my problem too with the long print start thing? Quotedc42 It's not unusual for the filament to tend to curl up as it exits the nozzle, especially for PLA. If it does it when printing the first layer, then I suspect that either the nozzle is too high above the bed, or you have anby pugzor - Delta Machines
Hey all, me again haha. I'm still having issues with mine. Here's the latest video of failure: I think I might have an issue with the nozzle because sometimes the extrusion "curls" straight after exiting the nozzle. This makes it ball up or cause irregularities, which seem to snowball into bigger issues as the print continues. Should I just get a new hot end? Oh, and I think I asked earlierby pugzor - Delta Machines
Haha, thanks guys. Admittedly I'm very %$#&ing happy that at least I did sort out my issue with the hot end jamming. That was worrying me greatly because I didn't want to spend more money before getting some results. The ironic thing is that when I first got my printer working I actually had a reasonable print using slic3r, but now that I've been using Cura I haven't been able to get as gooby pugzor - Delta Machines
Build a 3D printer, they said... It'll be fun, they said... But in all seriousness, slowing down the first layer helped a lot. I think I've got issues with it adhering to the print bed though, or filament getting stuck on the nozzle. Maybe it's too close to the bed? I'll keep mucking with the settings... I'll surely stumble across something that works one day. Maybe on the next roll of filameby pugzor - Delta Machines
Oh, and I did double-check my extrusion stepper. That seems to be calibrated really well. 50mm in the software = 50mm passed through. I've had a couple more attempts even after calibrating at operating temp. Still getting similar issues. Keeps 'balling' up as it prints.by pugzor - Delta Machines
@mikes3ds, that torque seems pretty bloody close... I wouldn't worry about it... but then again I've had so many issues I wouldn't trust anything I say! @vreihen, hmm, fair enough. I don't have a printed bed but I guess it makes sense to calibrate as much under operating conditions as possible. Would it be suggested to calibrate with blue tape on the bed too? My Cura settings are as follows: Spby pugzor - Delta Machines
Hey vreihen, nah didn't do calibration with the nozzle at operating temp... Should I have? Yeah my first layer was set at 0.3mm with every other layer at 0.1mm. I changed this to 0.1mm but it seems to ball up a bit now. Is that an issue with temp being too low? I also notice a lot of dripping meaning that it doesn't actually start extruding until half way through the first layer... Maybe my temby pugzor - Delta Machines
Pretty sure I've conquered the filament jamming issue! Soooo close to being happy... Taking a look at this, what would you say is the issue? Under-extrusion seems possible... Also, any tips for adhesion to the bed? Just printing Colorfabb PLA to an unheated bed with blue tape.by pugzor - Delta Machines
Quotedougal1957 Eh guys Just had an E-Mail from E3D announcing a new hotend for £21.50 see E3D V6 Lite ok wont go as hot or fast as a full V6 but will still do ABS at reasonable speeds. No reason at all to go for Chinese copies now eh. Doug I noticed these too last night when considering an E3D V6 conversion. I can still get Chinese copies for less than half of that, delivered, with thermisteby pugzor - Delta Machines
Speaking of larger format printers, has anyone thought of laser cut aluminium plate for either 2 ends on a cartesian or top and bottom on a delta? I've been posing the question to a couple of laser cutters around the place and the price doesn't seem that bad. Obviously more expensive than linear rail but a piece of 500x500x8mm sheet with a few holes processed looks like it'd be under AU$100. Foby pugzor - Delta Machines
Haha nice Doug. I was actually thinking of (one day, since I've pretty much had every problem possible so far) making a large envelope Cartesian using a Kraken. Well, probably a Chimera to start off with but with allowances for a Kraken. If nothing else it'd be cool to have a number of nozzle sizes pre-installed and calibrated, or, if doing super large prints, just having the ability to switch toby pugzor - Delta Machines
Andy, I dare you to do a bigger slice of Pi using a Kraken.by pugzor - Delta Machines
So Andy... I noticed Openbuilds have the new C-Beam rail. Looks perfect for this.by pugzor - Delta Machines
Thanks for the response guys. Yeah, I didn't bother with the Kapton tape because I thought it was too shiny. Still might give it a go. I don't know where it's getting stuck but there's definitely something wrong in the hotend. It very well could be the PTFE lining. Even when I try to feed it in manually (removing the Bowden tube, inserting another length of tube and feeding in filament by hand)by pugzor - Delta Machines
Andy, out of interest, how have you checked the temperature of your hot ends in the past? I got an IR thermometer but it's not effective... I think this is mostly because the emissivity of the hot end is super low. Quick physics lesson why: IR based temperature measurement is largely dependent on the type of surface. A perfectly black surface with no shine to it at all (matte), has an emissivitby pugzor - Delta Machines
Does anyone (in Brisbane, Australia?) want to buy an almost-there Cherry Pi IIIS? I've spent probably more than 20 hours after "completing" the build to try and get it working but can't, and I'm kind of over it. Still having issues extruding and I'm sick of taking apart the effector and hot end to clear it out and try something else. It's probably a stupid fault that any idiot could pick up and fby pugzor - Delta Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist If you're talking about a printer in which the bed moves in the Y axis, your biggest problem is going to be controlling the motion of that large moving mass, unless you don't might very low print speeds. Fully supported rails or linear guides can easily fix the sag problems, as long as the frame of the machine is sufficiently sturdy. What would you recommend? A movingby pugzor - General