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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: A reprap - 9 years ago
Fascinating detailed account of your CAD development work, thanks a bunch, Alan! And good luck with your custom Air 2 project.by AndrewBCN - Look what I made!
Re: Dont underestimate the importance of a stable table - 9 years ago
@ thetazzbot If you decide to rebuild your Prusa i3 with an MDF box frame, check the wiki here: There isn't much in the way of CNC woodworking required actually, at least for the original box frame: all it requires are 8 small rectangular pieces of 12mm MDF cut to precise dimensions. And for discussing it, you can use the Prusa i3 specific forum below.by AndrewBCN - General
Re: Dont underestimate the importance of a stable table - 9 years ago
@ the_digital_dentist I agree entirely with you when you say that "the cross sectional area and the methods of joining the pieces" determine the rigidity of the frame for aluminum profile cube frames, that much is obvious. However, what I am arguing here is that thetazzbot had a bad experience with an "underengineered" - actually just bad and low quality - copy of the Prusa i3, and is now riskiby AndrewBCN - General
Re: Dont underestimate the importance of a stable table - 9 years ago
Well, take a look at this RepRap printer, I really like the clean design, and I believe the quality of the prints is very good too: On the other hand, it is clearly a more complex design than your basic run-of-the-mill Prusa i3, more expensive to build, and I am quite confident that a properly built Prusa i3 could get you the same print quality.by AndrewBCN - General
Re: Dont underestimate the importance of a stable table - 9 years ago
Well, I also mean no disrespect and I don't want to discourage you in your search for the ideal perfectly rigid frame, but the "aluminum profile cube frame" design has already been tried a number of times and the usual conclusion is that it is not in any way superior to the original Prusa i3 frame design, but it results in a more expensive RepRap printer to build, with many custom printed parts rby AndrewBCN - General
Re: Dont underestimate the importance of a stable table - 9 years ago
Quotethetazzbot ... I feel sorry for anyone building a Prusa i3. Hmmm... that requires some clarifying, because there are so many variants of the Prusa i3 built with different materials and with vastly different component quality and engineering, and you probably built a low-quality one which was not correctly engineered for rigidity. Historically, I don't think Josef Prusa designed the Prusa i3by AndrewBCN - General
Re: Which extruder setup ? - 9 years ago
@ bond I checked your website and honestly, I cannot see any outstanding feature with your extruder that would grant its $180 price. Compared to a $10 (overall cost of components) Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder that provides the same torque, it is certainly more compact, but is also less maintainable and not as practical when it comes to filament access.by AndrewBCN - General
Re: ATmega2560 Fried? - 9 years ago
The RAMPS is much sturdier than the Arduino, basically because it uses mostly passive components. So I don't think it was damaged. However, again considering the cost of a RAMPS clone from China is around $7, I see no reason not to buy an extra one, you can always use it in the future to build a second 3D printer...by AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: ATmega2560 Fried? - 9 years ago
You probably damaged the voltage regulator on the Arduino by shorting the Vcc and Gnd lines when incorrectly connecting the limit switches. You can still use the Arduno by powering it with the USB interface but now it is probably not usable for 3D printing anymore. The good thing is, a cheap Mega 2560 clone from China is just around $10 these days. So, live and learn, consider this incident parby AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: Need help with dual extruder setup - 9 years ago
@ Chris I would suggest you try to use one of the unused Arduino PWM ports available on the RAMPS to control an extra MOSFET for the layer fan(s) (which you have mentioned above as the "fans that cool the print"). Wiring an extra MOSFET to the RAMPS shouldn't be too hard and it's an inexpensive solution (< $1). Then of course you'll have to patch/edit some of Marlin's configuration files, asby AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: RAMPS Max Fan Amperage? - 10 years ago
@ eovnu87435ds I guess you want to cool down the cold end of your hotend. However, you are using a canon to kill a mosquito here. My advice is to just do what everybody else does: use a 40mm fan directly connected to the 12V PSU. The RAMPS PWM fan output is for the layer fan, not for the hotend body fan.by AndrewBCN - General
Re: P3Steel version 2.5 DXL - 10 years ago
Hola Carlos, No, no había visto tus modificaciones, pero conozco la versión Moebyus de la P3Steel. La verdad es que le proyecto de la P3Steel es totalmente de Irobri, y mis modificaciones son muy pequeñas, porque mi "filosofia" es de no cambiar cosas que ya estan practicamente perfectas (que es como veo la version 2.0 de la P3Steel, o sea, el diseño original de Irobri, que es absolutamente minimby AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Temperature control of melted filament is the key of quality printing. - 10 years ago
Quotedbrewski ... Thank you for the detailed explanation. I'm hoping you can clear up my understanding on the exact purpose of cooling PLA. My understanding is that you want the current printed layer to be solid for the next layer to go on top. If the top layer is still soft, then the extruder doesn't have a solid surface to lay down plastic. I don't understand why cooling only at the tip isby AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: Temperature control of melted filament is the key of quality printing. - 10 years ago
Quote691175002 Do you find that designs which blow air from only one direction produce slightly different results depending on geometry of the part being printed or the direction in which the extruder is moving? Yes indeed that is correct, the results are (slightly) different depending on how the part is oriented in relation to the airflow, and whether there are vertical walls, etc. The truth isby AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: Temperature control of melted filament is the key of quality printing. - 10 years ago
@ janpenguin Hughe, One tip: bring the fan duct output outlet closer to the tip of the nozzle, you will get better results!by AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: Temperature control of melted filament is the key of quality printing. - 10 years ago
Quotedbrewski Axial fans don't like back pressure. They work great when the can push the air freely, but fan ducts that restrict the airflow tend to reduce the ability of the axial fan to push air through. ... That is 100% correct. However, since I am the designer of some of the fan ducts janpenguin has posted above, I would like to add a few remarks about how they were designed and the amountby AndrewBCN - Reprappers
Re: New Delta Printer - Look Ma, no rails! - 10 years ago
Very impressive and 100% creative, original solution! Hats off to you, this should win a prize!by AndrewBCN - General
Re: RAMPS Max Fan Amperage? - 10 years ago
No, you won't be destroying anything with such a large fan. But honestly, it doesn't make any sense to put a 1.2A fan on the PWM output (D9) of your RAMPS board, because that output is usually dedicated to the layer fan, where a 40mm, 150mA fan is more than enough. I suspect you just need to run your large fan at maximum speed or some constant speed less than that, so you might just as well conby AndrewBCN - General
Re: Need help designing an hybrid - 10 years ago
Hi Domovoy, Note that this has been discussed before, I think in the General forum. My personal opinion is that the constraints for each type of machine are so much different, that any attempt at building a hybrid machine will result in something with mediocre performance in one function and very bad performance in all the others. 3D printers are basically designed for speed and extra resolutiby AndrewBCN - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Re: Which extruder setup ? - 10 years ago
The challenge in getting a reliable direct drive extruder is very exactly that of torque. You have to rely on a proper drive gear (the MK7 and the MK8 gears are popular choices) and a good stepper motor driven at or near its maximum rated current, meaning it will also get quite hot. Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder has a sterling reputation because it avoids these issues. The 3D printed fishbone geby AndrewBCN - General
Re: New Delta Printer - Look Ma, no rails! - 10 years ago
Nice experimental design! However, your video does not show how the wood poles are spring loaded and I wonder how you manage the Z-height of the effector, is that by simply compressing the springs that load the wood poles? I guess you have encountered the same problem as Brandon Heller's SkyDelta, which is how to keep the effector plane parallel to the heatbed, something not exactly easy whenby AndrewBCN - General
Re: RAMPS 1.4 Low Vcc - 10 years ago
Exactly what Tim wrote, adding two small points: 1. What voltage are you supplying to the RAMPS? Did you leave the D1 diode in the RAMPS? Can you measure the voltage across D1 when printing (it should be something like 0.8V)? You see, the regulator on the Arduino will work fine if you supply it with something like 7 to 12V, and the D1 diode on the RAMPS is supposed to pass approximately 11.2V toby AndrewBCN - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Fabrication Grande Fraiseuse CNC - 10 years ago
Quotejolapatate76 Merci pour ta réponse rapide ! Alors comme je suis quelqu'un d'optimiste....et que je dispose de profilés alu (Section de 10x13 !) de grande taille : 2x3m, 2x2m50, 2x2m, 4x1,6m 1) - je pensais a une CNC grand format, peut être vertical - usinage de plaques de 2,8 m x 2,7 m, CP, Medium, Aggloméré, polycarbonate, voir plus..... - épaisseur de 16/18 - gravure etby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: "Project Locus" - *gasp* My Plastic Frame - CoreXY Build Thread - 10 years ago
Quotedougal1957 QuoteLarsK It is an interesting design but I am not clear why you think this will help wobble? Wobble is the lag of centricity of you screw. When it rotates it pushes your carriage from side to side. For this reason you should see that the wobble in your printed pieces is exactly with the distance of the pitch on your screw. The system you have made will only help if you have thby AndrewBCN - CoreXY Machines
Re: Getting more speed out of Arduino Mega - 10 years ago
Mark, I don't think Markus has ever promoted Teacup as a 1:1 replacement for Marlin, I don't think he even believes that to be true. Each firmware has its advantages and disadvantages, its pros and cons and I guess we enjoy the freedom of choosing the firmware that best suits our needs, which is a very Good Thing (tm) in my book! Back to the topic of TESKAn's code optimization, I still haven'tby AndrewBCN - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: P3Steel version 2.5 DXL - 10 years ago
Hehe! Well, the 2.5 DXL frames will be available in a few weeks, so you still have some time to get your version 2.01 up and running and print the parts for your next P3Steel 2.5 DXL!by AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Which extruder setup ? - 10 years ago
The "classic" extruder design for the various Prusa Mendel and Prusa i3 variants is the Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder. Its qualities can be summarized in three words: it just works. There are two new classes of extruders that attempt to improve in one way or another on Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder: - Direct drive designs (no more gears). - Bowden designs (the extruder is attached to the frameby AndrewBCN - General
P3Steel version 2.5 DXL - 10 years ago
Hi everybody, FYI, I just published in the wiki the design of the P3Steel version 2.5 DXL. Note that the P3Steel is a variant of the "classic" Prusa i3 with a lasercut frame in 3mm steel. This new P3Steel version 2.5 DXL is a dual Bowden extruder capable, slightly enlarged derivative of my earlier P3Steel 2.01 variant. The recommended frame is laser cut structural carbon steel, sand blasted, zby AndrewBCN - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Fabrication Grande Fraiseuse CNC - 10 years ago
Salut Jo, et bienvenue au forum. Bon, alors mes conseils de débutant comme toi dans le domaine de fraiseuses CNC: 1) D'abord, bien mettre au clair les dimensions de ta machine et les matériaux que tu vas usiner, car tout le reste dépend de cela. 2) Te documenter sur le site de Shapeoko (dans le wiki) sur la partie électronique et les logiciels utilisés pour la partie CAM. 3) Un fil récent sur lby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
P3Steel version 2.5 - 10 years ago
Pour tous ceux que cela pourrait intéresser, je viens de publier dans le wiki le dessin de la version 2.5 de la P3Steel, une variante de la Prusa i3 en acier 3mm découpé au laser. Il s'agit d'une évolution de la version 2.01 que j'avais publiée auparavant, la principale différence cette fois-ci est que cette version du cadre est conçue pour le support d'un double extrudeur Bowden dans sa configby AndrewBCN - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone