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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago
Thanks for the info Do you think the corner connectors are more rigid than using 3 metal brackets per corner? Switching the printed brackets to metal brackets would be an easier upgrade path since I wouldn't need shorter extrusions.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago
Didn't realize you were talking about tapping and drilling the extrusions; I thought you meant attaching the extra bars with more brackets, which looks like what the printer in your picture is doing I went with brackets mostly for convenience; I don't have a tap or even a drill handy so I made the frame able to be assembled with a hex key only. The metal corner brackets are $0.75 each, so usingby AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago
On my printer, I've used metal corner brackets from Misumi, part HBLTBS3; they're super strong and keep the frame very rigid, so I highly recommend replacing the printed brackets with them in at least 2 corners of the x-axis (the y-axis frame is already stiff because of the diagonal bars). I'm only using the brackets on the upper corners of the x axis, with normal printed brackets on the bottom,by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago
QuoteAx Quote3D_Printer_Guy The design of the FuseBox is really nice there is a lot to like about it. One thing that does not appeal to me so much about the design is having the stepper motors mounted on top crossbar of the frame. Anyone out there thought about mounting the motors to the underside of the crossbar? It seems like it would make it easier to put a top cover on it when not in uby AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: Tweak problems - 8 years ago
It looks like you're printing too hot and/or too fast. Try slowing down, lowering the temperature, or adding a fan if using PLA.by AlexY - Printing
Re: Need help with new build - 8 years ago
Are the pulley set screws tight?by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago
Just published version 1.4! Main change is the switch to a single LM8LUU on each side of the z-axis rather than a pair of LM8UU's. The new design is more compact and significantly reduced z-banding for me. Also, I've tweaked some other parts a bit to simplify assembly and lessen the chance of breaking.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago
I'm not sure I would trust a clone E3D to work well without jamming all the time—better to get a genuine v6 (or Lite6, for a cheaper option).by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 8 years ago
Are the set screws on the pulleys tight?by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
Slic3r or Cura, though mostly Cura since Slic3r 1.2.9 has some extrusion issues. Slic3r speeds are around 110mm/s with 300mm/s travels, and Cura's speeds are around 150mm/s overall with the same travel speed. Cura prints at higher speeds due to the thinner extrusion width, so the extruder can still keep up.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
Do you mean my slicer settings I use in general, or settings for printing the FuseBox's plastic parts?by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
Try upping your perimeter thickness, as well as possibly increasing your print temperature a bit. I haven't had any issues with those parts breaking on my printer.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
I think someone might've released a remix of my design on Thingiverse that uses 2020's; try checking there. The Z brackets are mostly designed in 1 piece for alignment, so it should be fine if you split them up.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
I got my coupler off of eBay. However, I think it's my M8 rod that's causing the issue, since it isn't exactly 8mm in diameter. This means that it's pushed slightly to one side when mounted in the coupler.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
Yeah, I guess the bouncing shouldn't be that much of an issue, but my main concern is the threaded rod not being centered in the coupler; that might be the cause of the slight wobble in prints.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
I ended up finding some metal corner brackets for 1515 extrusions on Misumi so I ordered some of those. I'll try them out when they arrive and see if they help rigidity. Also, does anyone have recommendations for a better Z-axis coupling method? The metal flex coupler allows the bed to bounce up and down a bit, and also doesn't hold the threaded rod exactly in the center.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
I'd be interested in using metal brackets for the x-axis where there aren't any cross braces, so if there's a good source for 1515 plates/brackets please let me know!by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
Hi, I haven't really thought about enclosing the printer, but it looks like it could be done without too much work. I'm not sure about the front door acting as a brace, since it might make opening and closing much more difficult.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
Thanks for the positive feedback! For the future, I plan on making a 2020 extrusion version of the FuseBox using metal corner brackets instead, which should make the frame super rigid. There's still a bit of frame wobble on the x-axis since it's braced with plastic parts only. BTW, any suggestions for increasing x-axis rigidity? I can't put a cross brace on the front because it would get in theby AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: lousy prints, Please help, - 9 years ago
What filament are you using? When I used Inland white filament from Micro Center on my printer, the prints came out looking like your fan duct. Switching to a different spool of filament fixed the issue for me.by AlexY - Printing
Re: pauses during circles - 9 years ago
If you do have that option enabled, that might mean that your retraction is taking too long, causing the plastic to form a blob.by AlexY - Printing
Re: Corexy Design not printing circles (Belt tension is great) - 9 years ago
It looks a bit skewed too, so make sure that your 2 belts are equally tensioned.by AlexY - Printing
Re: What is happening to my corners? - 9 years ago
For printing with PLA on blue tape, your heated bed temperature seems really high, transferring excess heat to the plastic. Try turning it down to 60º or less, or even turning it off entirely.by AlexY - Printing
Re: top layer has nozzle imprints - 9 years ago
An uncalibrated extruder can cause overextrusion which looks very similar to what's going on in the picture. Alternatively, if you're using Slic3r 1.2.9, it has an issue with setting correct extrusion rate in gap fill, which could also cause the problem. Try downgrading to Slic3r 1.1.7 (stable) or 1.2.6 (experimental) and see if that helps.by AlexY - Reprappers
Re: Extrusion Issues - 9 years ago
Try lowering your print temperature to as cold as it can print without delaminating, so that heat creep happens more slowly.by AlexY - Printing
Re: First layer spots getting dragged away - 9 years ago
If support is very hard to break off, that could mean your printer is overextruding, so calibrating your extruder steps per mm might help the issue.by AlexY - Reprappers
Re: Corexy vs cartesian for HQ, slow printing - 9 years ago
E3D states the max temperature of the lite6 to be 245ºC which should be adequate for both of those filaments. For oozing, the lite6 could possibly be better than the j-head since the PTFE reaches from the extruder to the tip of the nozzle. This might reduce the chance of the filament from bending before it gets to the hotend and affecting extrusion accuracy. Another consequence of the PTFE tubinby AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: Corexy vs cartesian for HQ, slow printing - 9 years ago
Repeatability should be fine if your belts are properly tensioned and the printer isn't unreasonably large. Even at low speeds, the low weight of the CoreXY print head reduces the presence of ringing patterns in prints. BTW, I run a bowden e3d lite6 on my printer, and I've gotten it to have virtually no stringing by changing retraction settings.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Re: Stuck with Z axis printing directions - 9 years ago
Wow, a wooden CoreXY! Does the z axis move in the correct direction when you do manual moves (i.e. the bed moves down when you move in the +Z direction)?by AlexY - CoreXY Machines