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Re: prusa i3 settings - 9 years ago

PLA usually runs in the range of 190-210ºC, although some brands might go out of that range. The bed is usually 60ºC when printing with PLA.

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Marlin/Reprap Prusa I3 usage without mechanical endstops? - 9 years ago

I run my current printer without endstops since my first one (QU-BD Two-Up) didn't have them and I've gotten used to it. I put a G92 X0 Y0 Z0 in the start g-code and manually jog it to where I want it to start printing. Unless you set your motors to never turn off after a set idle period, you'll have to manually move the nozzle and bed to the home position each time you start a new print. In Mar

by AlexY - General

Re: Giant spool of filament - 9 years ago

How consistent is the diameter on it?

by AlexY - General

Re: Why slic3r didn't do a solid top layer? - 9 years ago

They are solid. I don't think the preview in Repetier accounts for extrusion width, meaning that the paths shown could be thinner or thicker than they actually are.

by AlexY - General

Re: Corexy in Ultimaker box - 9 years ago

Have you noticed any change in print quality or max speed?

by AlexY - CoreXY Machines

Re: Slic3r v1.2.9 over-extrusion issues - 9 years ago

I'm having the same problem with top fill, and there also seems to be gaps between the outer and inner perimeters, which makes parts quite a bit weaker. I crashed my 3D printed quadcopter the other day, and one of the arms snapped between perimeters, which i've never seen before (they usually cleanly snap straight across).

by AlexY - General

Re: Z movement noise issue, for firmware specialist and detectives - 9 years ago

Try changing only the max temperature and thermistor number for now; keep the PID settings the same as before and verify that the Z-axis doesn't have problems. Afterwards you can run a PID autotune to get the temperature regulation calibrated. Also, make sure that your z-axis steps per mm didn't accidentally change during the firmware upgrade.

by AlexY - General

Re: Z movement noise issue, for firmware specialist and detectives - 9 years ago

What firmware are you using? In Marlin you only need to change the thermistor number if you're switching hotends, so everything else should stay the same.

by AlexY - General

Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago

Took my FuseBox to our local Silver Spring Maker Faire as part of a drones/3d printing exhibit. It was pretty popular, especially among the younger makers

by AlexY - CoreXY Machines

Re: What is a good example of a properly printed side wall? - 9 years ago

Your layer alignment looks good, though the wavy pattern shouldn't be there normally. The layer lines you see are typical of larger layer heights and nothing to worry about. If you want a smoother finish, use 0.2mm, 0.1, or even lower layer heights, but the prints will take longer to complete. Here's a 0.1mm print: And 0.2mm:

by AlexY - Printing

Re: My Elephant has Pimples - 9 years ago

Is the printer actually stuttering on curves though? If so, then yes, the printer should probably have an electronics upgrade, but this is unlikely since the RAMPS should work well with standard cartesian printers (it even works well on my CoreXY machine, though I've heard it has problems with delta printers). However, if it looks like it's moving smoothly then the cause is probably filament rel

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Prusa i3 not printing in a straight angle! - 9 years ago

Your pulley might be slipping on the stepper shaft, try tightening the set screw.

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago

Make sure your max PWM value for the hotend is 255, in the firmware settings.

by AlexY - Printing

Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago

It's correct; the 6mm bolt is just used to fix the extruder to the 1515 extrusions, so for the extruder itself it only needs the 4 10mm bolts.

by AlexY - CoreXY Machines

Re: QU-BD printer x,y,z,e steps?? - 9 years ago

X: 88.88888888889 Y: 88.88888888889 Z: 1511.811023622047 E: 88.57326053533955 I got these from the Up-Marlin page, which should be pretty accurate.

by AlexY - General

Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago

Yeah, I agree that the brackets should probably be a bit stronger, mostly in the x-axis direction; the problem with 1515 extrusions is that it's hard to find premade metal brackets for them, although the extrusions themselves are pretty rigid. Quotewfcook What model of coldend is that? I am intriqued by the binder clip spring mechanism. It's a super simple extruder I designed for this printer i

by AlexY - CoreXY Machines

Re: QU-BD printer x,y,z,e steps?? - 9 years ago

I used to use a Two-Up before parting it out for another printer, but for me the default values worked fine. There are lots of other factors that influence print quality, such as rigidity of the frame and filament quality. The biggest issues I had with the Two-Up were z-wobble and poor bridging.

by AlexY - General

Re: Z-axis threads accuracy in prints - 9 years ago

Duplicate post; website glitch

by AlexY - General

Re: Z-axis threads accuracy in prints - 9 years ago

Duplicate post

by AlexY - General

Re: Z-axis threads accuracy in prints - 9 years ago

I'd recommend a metric threaded rod for the z axis for a nice even steps per mm. Using an imperial threaded rod restricts you to specific layer heights in order to reduce banding. Regarding the acme thread, it shouldn't make that much of a difference since the z axis moves at such low speeds.

by AlexY - General

FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago

Hey all, Lately I've been working on a custom printer design using a CoreXY belt arrangement and Misumi 1515 extrusions, designed to be as affordable as possible while mantaining decent print quality. It's designed such that no specialized equipment (such as a laser cutter or CNC machine) besides a 3D printer is required to fabricate all the parts. I'm calling it the FuseBox, because it's shape

by AlexY - CoreXY Machines

Re: Poor upper layer quality - 9 years ago

So did switching the fan duct solve your problem?

by AlexY - Printing

Re: [PICTURES] Occasionally underextrude on external Perimeter and infill ? - 9 years ago

Check that your filament isn't slipping in the extruder; this could cause the printer to put out less plastic than it should.

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Spongy Walls + Solid Surface Issues - 9 years ago

Are you filament diameter and nozzle size settings correct in Slic3r?

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Extruder suddenly reversing, restarting, reversing - so on. During print - 9 years ago

You might want to replace the heater cartridge if the wiring isn't reliable to protect your (more expensive) electronics.

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Mendel print quality - 9 years ago

How wobbly is your frame? If it's able to flex while printing it could cause artifacts to appear in the printed piece. You could try reinforcing your frame as well as lowering the acceleration values.

by AlexY - Reprappers

Re: Perimiters interrupted print poorly. - 9 years ago

When doing manual z-moves do you see any wobbling? Also, what kind of printer do you have?

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Perimiters interrupted print poorly. - 9 years ago

How are your z-axis screws attached to the stepper motor?

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Extruder suddenly reversing, restarting, reversing - so on. During print - 9 years ago

Very nice! Just curious, any reason why you didn't go for 6 inch props?

by AlexY - Printing

Re: Accuracy upgrades and stepper motor lifespan - 9 years ago

What type of belt are you using? Some aren't designed for motion in both directions and as such might be more prone to backlash even when new. Make sure that the pulleys are tight on the shaft as well, as loose pulleys are often the cause of additional slop in the axis movements.

by AlexY - Reprappers