Have you checked for any binding? If all your sliders are smooth then it might be a firmware issue; on my CoreXY I had a "knocking" problem whenever exceeding a certain speed on Marlin, fixed by switching to Repetier firmware.by AlexY - Printing
The stepper problem seems fixed, but the dev Marlin is tripping the thermal runaway far too easily. Is there any way around this problem without disabling the protection outright?by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
That seems to have fixed it! I'll test the patched Marlin out a bit more to make sure the problem's actually gone.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
If it's only moving diagonally, that means only a single motor is turning. One of your motors or drivers is probably bad.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Do you have any printer host software running? I also wasn't able to upload to my board, before realizing that my printer was still connected to Repetier Host.by AlexY - General
Your stepper currents are too low for the Z-axis motors; turn the potentiometer on the stepper driver a bit clockwise.by AlexY - Reprappers
Can you post pictures of your frame? It might be deflecting slightly due to vibrations while printing, which would cause the cantilevered bed to tilt up and down. On my custom-built CoreXY machine the bed moved up and down during high-speed moves in the Y axis because it wasn't rigid enough; after adding additional reinforcement the structure is super rigid in the Y direction and the bed doesntby AlexY - Mechanics
Doesn't the Melzi board accept standard G-Code? If so, you can run it with any ordinary host software, such as Repetier-Host.by AlexY - Printing
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think old versions of Marlin had a default acceleration setting of around 9800, which is probably way too high for an ordinary printer. Try using the acceleration feature in Slic3r to limit the acceleration to something a lot lower, like 1000.by AlexY - Printing
What speeds are you printing at, and what layer height are you running? Your extruder might be slipping; that would explain why your extruder calibration seems inaccurate.by AlexY - Printing
Have you tried lowering the temperature of the hotend? 220 seems really high for PLA.by AlexY - Printing
Try flashing a different firmware and see if the problem goes away.by AlexY - Printing
Yep, the extruder is the part pushing the filament into the hotend. Make sure that the filament isn't slipping, and that the stepper motor isn't skipping. If the motor is skipping or making knocking noises, turn the potentiometer on your board for the extruder motor clockwise a bit. Can you post some more pictures of your hotend and extruder assembly?by AlexY - Printing
How strong are your stepper motors? If you resist the motor movement with your hand, does it skip easily? Also, when you said you checked the pulleys, did you mean that you made sure they were tight on the shaft and didn't slip?by AlexY - Printing
I'll give it a try, thanks!by AlexY - General
It looks like your extruder is slipping, causing the bad looking layers; check your extruder tension and extruder motor current, and make sure that you've calibrated your extruder steps per mm. Also, do you have a fan blowing on the hotend's heatsink? Without one it could easily jam after a few layers.by AlexY - Printing
I've heard that the E3D Lite6 should work well because its PTFE liner extends through the entire hotend.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
I think I uploaded my old Marlin config by mistake; here's the new one. When I tried the development version, the problem didn't go away, however.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
On an unheated bed, does PLA warp at all when using spray adhesive? I've been getting warping with painter's tape and want to know if there are some better alternatives. Also, do you remove the bed when spraying on the adhesive? If you kept the bed on while applying it, would it gum up the smooth rods?by AlexY - General
It sounds like you're either using one fan to cool the hotend and the print, or wiring the hotend fan to the print fan output. I'd recommend using two separate fans and wiring the hotend fan directly to 12v output on your power supply.by AlexY - General
I have a print fan installed, and it really helps with bridges and overhangs when it's enabled (for PLA, I don't use ABS).by AlexY - Printing
Have you checked that all of the axes are smooth when moved by hand? Is your stepper current too low? Since the gear teeth of the pulley have lots of sharp angles, it might cause some rod binding or skipping from your stepper motors.by AlexY - Printing
What acceleration and jerk settings are you using? Those ripples look like ringing caused by high acceleration values and/or a wobbly frame.by AlexY - Printing
Keep in mind that some types of filament are softer than others; you'd want greater tension for PLA, for example, than for ABS.by AlexY - General
Here's the configuration.h file.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
OK, so it seems that Repetier firmware doesn't have the issues with high steprates that Marlin has, so I guess I'll stick with it for now.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
I flashed my printer with the latest Marlin dev firmware, but the problem seems exactly the same as before. I'll try Repetier firmware to see if it's compatible with higher speeds.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Are you able to manually extrude when it's at the correct temperature? What type of filament are you using and what temperature is it set to?by AlexY - Printing
I'm running Marlin 1.0.2. After doing some test prints, it seems that even with travel speeds of 180mm/s I still get occasional freezing from the steppers.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
I'm running 20 tooth GT2 pulleys and Allegro drivers set to 1/16 microstepping. It seems like pure x or y moves max out at exactly 250mm/s before skipping, while pure diagonal moves wont skip at any entered feedrate due to the firmware speed limits.by AlexY - CoreXY Machines