Thanks, I'll flash my printer with Repetier firmware and see if the problem goes away. If it is an issue with Marlin, do you know whether there's going to be a fix for it anytime soon?by AlexY - CoreXY Machines
Lately I've been testing high speed printing with my CoreXY printer (running Marlin firmware), and have been running into an issue with movements faster than ~250mm/s. At higher speeds, when decelerating, the gantry seems to "stick" for a very short time, causing a jerk in the movement. Usually this only happens during travel moves (since my travel speeds are the highest) and causes no noticeableby AlexY - CoreXY Machines
How rigid is your frame? It might also be caused by your frame wobbling, so try reducing your acceleration settings.by AlexY - Printing
How fast are you printing? The sunk lines might be caused by your extruder not being able to keep up with the speed you're printing at.by AlexY - Printing
There's also a bit of a middle ground for buying a hotend that blends affordability and reliability. My first printer, the QU-BD Two Up, came with an awful Ubis clone hotend; it could print perimeters fine but could not do bridging at all, meaning that the top surfaces were spotty and weak. On top of that, heat would creep up the barrel even with a cooling fan installed, eventually causing undereby AlexY - General
My friend's been using Inland PLA for some time now on his Prusa i3 and is impressed by the quality. It does seem to have a bit of an ABS smell to it when printing, but at $15 for a kg, it's hard to beat.by AlexY - General
Alright, I'll try that, thanks!by AlexY - Extruded Aluminum Frames
In your slicer options there should be a setting for a minimum layer time; you could try either increasing this value or lowering speeds. Also, have you tried switching filament to see if the problem is still there?by AlexY - Printing
Sounds like heat is creeping up past the heat break in your hotend, causing the filament to jam before it enters the melt zone. Try attaching a fan to the heatsink area so that the top stays cool.by AlexY - Printing
How fast are you printing? It could be that the previous layer hasn't had enough time to cool, allowing it to be pushed around by the nozzle on the following layer.by AlexY - Printing
Did you calibrate your extruder steps per mm? It's possible that the printer is overextruding, so that the extruder puts out extra plastic that hits the nozzle on the next layer.by AlexY - Printing
Does your extruder idler bearing turn freely? Is your stepper current adjusted correctly? Your extruder motor seems to be skipping, causing the thudding noises when the nozzle is lowered. Try pushing filament through the hotend manually with the nozzle in the air to see if there's significant resistance. This might be preventing the extruder from putting out plastic against the additional resistaby AlexY - Printing
I use 90 degree brackets that fit inside the corner, similar to . The brackets are reasonably rigid right now but still allow for vibration when the printer is printing at high speeds.by AlexY - Extruded Aluminum Frames
No problem—I also get occassional problems with warping, since I'm using an unheated bed with blue painter's tape. I'd be interested in solutions to this issue, so please post what you find! Also, I remember reading that when using painter's tape heating the bed actually lowers adhesion, though I've never tested that myself.by AlexY - Printing
Here's one of the parts for a 3D printer I'm designing—so far it's been extremely prone to warping and also doesn't use that much plastic, so it would be a good piece to test with.by AlexY - Printing
Hi, I'm currently in the process of designing a CoreXY printer made out of Misumi 1515 extrusions. I've created a prototype that uses 3D-printed corner brackets, but frame rigidity still seems to be an issue. Misumi offers metal corner brackets for their 2020 extrusions, but I haven't seen anything similar for the 1515 size. Does anyone know whether these brackets are available for the smallerby AlexY - Extruded Aluminum Frames