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Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago

printed 2 tests, one in black and other in blue: If i put the print is direct light and in some directions is easy to see there is a small z banding, it was printed at 0.20mm each layer. No sure how to fix it, the problem is probably related with the big cantilever beg. but the photos are very upclose and the z banding is very small, only noticed when examined more on close the prints tests

Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago

the pitch is 1.5mm. but a checked the print and it really looks like z banding issue. i can see a small parten that was the same spacing of the pitch. is small, but is there... i have checked my z axis i have forget to setup the anti-backlash darlin nuts, maybe will fix it. i doing this print test i will post same close photo later. my bed is supported on two 16mm rods, i always knew there

Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago

i not sure about having z banging issue or not, so i doing a print test o found. i will upload some close photo tomorow amd hope i not having this problem...

Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago

z offset, i will try. repetier was this option on the firmware but never used before. the big fan for know is working well, pretty powerfull and cooldown a big area, but i pretty sure it will messup with the heating of the bed like you say. my main problem i do not have espace to put a fan diretly on the carriage. after i installed the heating bed i will see what happens and if necessary to rem

Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 8 years ago

My folger almost finished, only missing a 8mm thread screw on one Z motor. This was not buy from any kit, decided to build this printer because i have lots of hardware i was not using. After is finished i will put the printer at sell, is a cheap and good printer but only for beginners. The base of the printer is a folger model but is was heavy modify and i used a lot of pieces i have designed. S

Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago

Hi, Done more testing, found some problems and was result made more changes. mains problems: 1) was using a 40mm x 40mm turbine fan and it was directly attached on the hotend. The fan was not enough powerful and on tiny print i have lots of heating pla problems. Removed the fan and added a new one that is connected one the X rail, the fan move only in the Y axis. The new fan it was 12mm and 2A

Re: G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago

finished to configure the firmware, but i still need to adjust some parameters. My first print was a 20mm cube: final result of the print with and without flash. The quality for a 1º print was better i expected, not found any artifact and the wall position perfect. I have some warping because i do not have a heated bed, it caused a tiny gap that can be see in the photo without flash. I th

G&C Printer [Metal Upgrade] - 8 years ago

Hi everyone, Created this new thread to present the upgrade i have done to my G&C printer. Still not finished, but i almost where... Only missing to reconfigure the firmware with the new dimension, Z axis and extruder and modify to acrylic panels that do not fit anymore. resuming the biggest upgrades: -All metal corexy mechanism, using 15mm HiWin linear rails on top of a 5mm aluminum plate.

Re: A Slightly Different CoreXY Design - 8 years ago

the printer is compact, well designed and is great looking, your design is great! if it was me i would add a metal back panel to increase the ridigity and remove any possible lateral movement. not sure if is a good idea to build this with mdf panel, way not metal plates? If possible add the possibility to use direct extruder. how do you add tension on the belts? the 2 pieces that connect the y r

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

The main point of the upgrade is to have better linear movements. I never used wheels but do you think you could achieve better result with wheels instead of linear rails? I already tested the corexy movement using the linear rail and i get zero play of the carriage in any direction, the movement is smooth and is necessary very little effort to move it. The rail are far superior to the rods but

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

I do not know what is makerslide? Are you talking about using less expensive linear rails?

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

some more photos: The Y endStop, it work too was a bloquer to the Y rails. Added a 1.5mm black printed spacer to secure the 6mm belt on top of the left pulley. Added a 1.5mm black printed spacer to secure the 6mm belt on bottom of the right pulley. One of the pulley will be secure directly on the top of the printer in the 2020 aluminum profile using T-nut M5 The printed pieces that secure

Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago

Hi, I have dropped this build version and i doing a different one that use a big aluminium plate that goes on top of the g&c printer. I am in the building fase but it is not yet finished. The new version i doing reuse the same main structure but all the x, y and z was redesigned to not use printed parts and have more precision. Is a very big upgrade and expensive one, i think i will create a

Re: CoreXYNZ build - 8 years ago

About the total height, you have added the height of the rails and blocks and you forget the rest? What about the screws for the 3 more blocks one the carriage and screws for the second rail, the bigger metal plate and the two more blocks on the Y axis. At the end maybe your setup was less height in relation to mine. My setup use 15mm and it was not the best choise, i think rail of 12mm will be

Re: Preferred Z Axis Style? - 8 years ago

Cantilevers is the easy solution for small bed, but the bed structure need to be rigid. I using a cantilevers 200x200, supported by 2 x 12mm rods and one 8mm lead screw with 2mm pitch, using this setup for almost 1 year and it works with no issue. I know upgrading to a 310x290 with 2 x 16mm rods and 8mm lead screw with 1.5mm pitch, but this was not tested and can not guaranty it will work. Any bi

Re: CoreXYNZ build - 8 years ago

The corexy mechanism is only for 3d printing, right? Or this will work was a cnc too? I´m fallowing your build from the start and you are dame rigorous building this machine, but i must say it... this is way over engineered, you have duplicate or more the number of linear rails and blocks necessary. You have four linear blocks for the carriage, and i see only one E3D direct extruder. The extrud

Re: Idler pulleys with spacers between their bearings..??? - 8 years ago

check the youtube video i have posted. it use a crappy 20T pulley, M5 bolt with a small head and a reversed M5 screw with nylon lock. With this solution you can secure the M5 screw very well on the mounting hole, the force is directly apply to the M5 nuts and not the pulley. the only downside is the need to have 5mm gap between the pulley and the mounting hole.

Re: Idler pulleys with spacers between their bearings..??? - 8 years ago

Re: Idler pulleys with spacers between their bearings..??? - 8 years ago

I have the same problem, order several of these pulleys from ebay and the quality is pretty poor. In my case i will go with 12 flagged F695zz bearings for 6mm belt and 2 of this crappy pulley with 20 teeth. The two belt will be on the same plane and i you use the twist solution, so the belt teeth will touch the pulley only on two of them. For the cheap pulley i found a solution that solve most o

Re: Yet another CoreXY printer - 8 years ago

checked your design and overall is great. In my opinion the x and y axis is over-engineered for the printer size. You could use only one long carriage instead of two on each rails and use only one bigger rail on the X: less expensive, more easy to install, less friction and less weight. But if have the money or already the rails, them why not.. My remarks: 1) In case you are using small rails 9m

strange problem that was not easy to solve... - 8 years ago

Hi, I was having a very strange problem and take me almost a complete day to solve it. Sharing the experience because is kind of funny. The problem: I wasTtying 15 or more time to print two tiny hands of this guy: but every-time it was failing because the extruder stop to work on the 4 layer and them start again at layer 10 or more. I used lots of different configurations on the slider, used s

Re: extruder ripples in outer wall - 8 years ago

I have some suggestion of a test you can do: The idea of the test is to check if the problem is with the extruder or x, y motions. print a 20/10 mm test cube with a 45 degree rotation, this will allow to print all the outside wall using only one motor. if you still have ripples, them is probably extruder problems.

Re: Trying to buy a cast aluminium plate - 8 years ago

QuoteJuggeli There are cheap milled plates on Motedis.de but they don't list any shipping costs for Norway. they are cheap, but has some problems: 1) the max width size is 200mm 2) thickness is 6mm or 10mm, not much choice... 3) not say much about flatness, not sure if can be used was a bed. If some one buy from them it will be great to have the feedback.

Re: 4 motor CoreXY? - 8 years ago

Quotespauda01 You could. Two for corexy, one for E, and One for Z, drive two lead screws with a belt connected to one motor, might stay in sync better have you see the video on the second post? if no, then check it and learn... the number is 7. And if the printer do not work with 7, they offer one more for free..

Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago

Quotespauda01 You can look at sample prints and demo videos of the D-Bot here . I think it gives pretty good quality prints for the price. I'm biased since it's my page but i'm not trying to sell anything. Why are so many people on here against 3dprinted components? This is the RepRap forum, as in 3d printers built with 3d printed parts. This is not high end CNC machine forum. Rep rap 3d printer

Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago

Quotewbwing I'm primarily worried that the his X and Y axis would flex too much the way he has it. Fully support 1 axis and replace the other with a linear rod perhaps (I figure rods can withstand more force), or just use a very high strength rail. I agree with you. It was used the linear rails was it was rods. If was me i secure both Y rails directly on the aluminum bar. Securing the Y rails t

Re: GIANT Core-xy build - 8 years ago

Have you published the project some where? you have screwed the X endstop directly on the linear rail block?

Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago

Maybe this one: the printer looks to be a nice upgraded version of the d-bot. Still have some room to more improvements: -32 bit board (duet board or smoothieboard clone) -replace 6 of the pulley with ones with teeth´s. if you do not use the type of pulley where the teeth of the belt touch the pulley you if get very very small "undulations pattern" on the walls of the print. Is not a big deal,

Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago

this not easy to say what is the best option, both have good and bad things. The Smartrapcore is simple and well designed, but was i say before the main goal of the designer was to build a low cost printer. you could upgrade some pieces in metal, but is not a prefect match. It will be necessary to make some redesign. The bed use belts to move, one of cheapest solution. The voron overall look be

Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago

QuotePDBeal Most of these reprap designs use Ramps with an LCD. Its a cheap and easy setup and a great starting place. The full graphics LCD will cause issues with speeds, but if people wanted a fast printer, they'd go with a delta. only delta print fast? corexy will print fast and a ramps connected to a full lcd is a bad option to put on a corexy printer. Plus, the cost of the ramps, lcd and d