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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
This model is new for me.. Overall is look a clean design, but it use some options i really do not like. -too much plastic.. This is a very low budget printer. the kit cost 499€?? if you buy yourself the hardware it will be like 350€ max. -use printed pulleys, this need to be replace with a proper aluminum ones that was bearings inside. 6 pulley with teeth and 2 without teeth. -It use 2 motors wby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: 4 motor CoreXY? - 8 years ago
no.. no.. no.. not 4 or 5 motors, 7! 7 is the correct number... why put 4 or 5 when you can have 7, right?by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: CoreXYNZ build - 8 years ago
On ebay you can find pretty cheap cable chains, it will be almost the same cost of the abs/pla used to print one. No sure if it worth the trouble of printing one...by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
Hi, the SmartRapCore you are talking is this one? if yes, them i think is a bad move to use a metal frame instead of wood. metal plates will resonate a lot, the printer will make a to much noise. building a big printer, i think the Voron is better in relation to the smartrapCore. My reasons to prefer the Voron: -have a full metal frame and easy to scale up. -use bigger rods on the x and y. thby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Wondering about CoreXY and different motor torques - 8 years ago
What do you means with "Surely there must be differences between motors" ? you are making a strange question.. Maybe you are considering a steppers motor identical to the "normal" ones. A stepper motor is build to rotate a very precise mount of degree. For example nema17 motor i know of two type of motor, the one that turn 1.8º degree and other 0.9ºdegree That means it turn this number of degreby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
I think you do not have understand the type of 3d printer i was indicating. Most of the metal printer i indicate to you there is no need to buy expensive machined parts. Do not try to replace printed parts used a c-bot or similar printer with metal ones. these printer use pieces that are complicate to reproduce in metal and it will be too expensive. What you need to do is start with a design thaby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hbot firmware setup - 8 years ago
you need to twist the belt, this way they will not collide. You twist them so that one of the belt have the teeths in the upper side and you twist to other to the other side to have the teeth down. both belts was 2 or 3mm of thickness, the soft part of both belt will touch. To avoid the touching you can lower 2 or 3 mm one of the pulley indicate in red and move up the same amount the oppositeby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Wondering about CoreXY and different motor torques - 8 years ago
is magic!! sorry about the joke, but i could not hold this one.. "If one motor turn more than the other" -> the printer use stepper motors, this do not happens.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hbot firmware setup - 8 years ago
is the 3 or 4 option, simply try first the 3 option and check if working. Moving from a hbot to corexy is not a big deal, but you need to take in consideration if you go with belts on two different level plane or one the same one. hbot is one belt in one plane, so i think the easy way is to move to a corexy design that use only one plane and you twits the belts. you can lower 3mm two of the fronby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
Voron: -3 point is better, but 4 will work. It will take more time to make the correct leveling. I do not see this was a big issue. -2 motors for the z: yes, is can be problematic. You need allays to operate the Z using a gcode command. if you move manually you loss the alignment. In my printer i constantly moving the bed manually, having to second motor is not a option for me. Plus you have theby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hbot firmware setup - 8 years ago
I have the idea the configuration in merlin or other firmware is the same for hbot and corexy. In repetier is easy, access to the online configurator, in the first menu of the wizard you simply need to define the "printer type" to use corexy.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
there is to be release a new printer from the same person that created the eclips3d, check is new design: you can see that most recent design and best ones have some point in similarity, use big metal plate to secure the y axis, use linear rails on both x and y and try to avoid printed parts. 24v is good to print with abs, but you need a enclosed one or else you can not print high. or better yby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
Not say the D-bot and Voron are not good printers, but they have too many printed parts and they still use rods or wheels. Will the budget of 1000$ you can go with a better design. And from my point of vue a printer that use printed parts is a lot more difficult to build correctly that one that only use metal parts. With this type of budget and knowing is your first build, in my opinion you shouby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What is the best option for heated bed 300x200 - 8 years ago
My first printer was a prusa i3 with a 3 point leveling system, i already knew most parts you have explained. I using the 4 point solution in my printer from the beginning and i do not remember the last time it was leveled, but i think it was only leveled and them made some little adjustments only in the firsts prints. When i change the hotend or service it, i only make some adjustments on the mby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What is the best option for heated bed 300x200 - 8 years ago
3 point leveling, why? I was planning to use 4 like i have a this moment.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What is the best option for heated bed 300x200 - 8 years ago
from portugal, post the ebay link of this seller.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What is the best option for heated bed 300x200 - 8 years ago
the e3d looks great but i can not go with 24v, already too many hardware invested that works on 12v. i tested a print with the blue tape (was gray color) and it worked just fine, the pla adession was good and easy to remove at the end. decided to go with a aluminum plate without heater and start to use the blue tape. this reduce my cost a little, remove height from the bed and reduce eletricityby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What is the best option for heated bed 300x200 - 8 years ago
Hi, I decided to go with a 300x200 bed because i need to have a bigger print volume on one axis and i trying to upgrade my actual printer (200x200). if i go with a 300x300 i need to replace all the 2020 extrusions bars of my actual printer and redesign a new bed Z axis (2 x 16mm will not work). And most important factor: i do not have space on my desk for a 300x300 printer... The printer will bby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What is the best option for heated bed 300x200 - 8 years ago
The printer is only for pla and it will not be temperature enclosed. So a good solution will be only use the 6mm stick aluminum plate and blue painter tape? planning to buy the plate where: In the description say it was a tolerance of thickness of -0.1 to + 0.18, i think is pretty good.. This tape allow to print many times on the same tape? The pla will not give wrap´s problems printing at rooby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
What is the best option for heated bed 300x200 - 8 years ago
Hi, Planning to build a heated bed with 300mm x 200mm. It will be supported with two rods of 16mm, 2 linear bearing of 60mm long, threaded screw 8mm with 1.5 pitch and a big nema17 2.5A. I know two posible options: 1) using a 300x200 mk3 bed, with a 3mm glass on top. (total cost: 39€) 2) Aluminum plate with 320 x 200 x 6mm, 200x200 silicone heater and a 3mm glass on top. (total cost 50€) Onlyby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
Made more changes: -changed the 4 front belt pulleys using 8 x F625zz. it will allow to use a 5mm rods with heavy t-nuts to secure them directly on the 2020 profile. The bearings have a bigger radius of 16mm instead of the 13mm of the first version. -modify the extruder to a bulldog clone instead of the E3D titan. It is 5 times cheaper (14€) and i do not like some aspects of the titan (all plastiby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
If you use the same linear rails in the actual frame of the printer you will lose 2cm. But you can use 12mm compact linear rail insteaded of the 15mm normal ones and you will have the complete 20cm. The 12mm compact linear rail each have less 11mm in relation to the 15mm rail (normal version). I have increase the frame 12cm only in the X direction to allow me two things: 1) install a 300mmx200 hby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
Hi, Planning to make some big upgrades on the printer, on this post i will put the list of planned changes. I only in the planning phase and release the project in hope i get some good critics and this way correct possible problems i do not have see. The modification made: -There is no printed parts, all parts are made aluminium. this allow to reduce rigidity problem and someone without a 3d prby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: CoreXYNZ build - 8 years ago
Hi, For the Z using 2 motors can be a problem because of synchronizations problems between the two and it will not allow to move the bed manually without "breaking" the bed level. The best is to try to find a solution with only one motor. In your case main problem is to be sure the motor was enouthg power to move correctly the bed, on thing you can do is to go with z screws that have a low pitchby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
belts path on the same plane using a belt twist - 8 years ago
Found on youtube a german guy that is building a corexy printer with a belt path different of the usual ones, check the video: This setup allow to simplify a lot the pulley locations and both belt are in the same plane. I really liked this setup and i was planning to use it, but i not sure if the twist of the belt can give or not troubles. I would like to listen yours opinions about this setupby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage - 8 years ago
Hi, Do you will have crossed belts? Someone can explain what will be the main difference between using or not crossed belts? With this type of setup (very rigid) it make sense to cross belt or even use corexy instead a more simple h-bot setup?by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Dampers Difference - 8 years ago
I use dampers and it make a noticeable noise and vibration difference. On my printer i never noticed any print quality difference.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Introducing "Unobtanium" - 8 years ago
nice work. how did you secure the extruder?by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Corexy issues advice needed - 8 years ago
the printer looks like to have a very strong main frame. I only have some information and the photos, is pretty difficult to pinpoint the problem. I will suggest some action you can do, but not sure if it will help you. Some of my conclusions: From the image of the print is easy to see the hotend do not have the same position on all the layers. but is not a missing steps problems. I think theby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Corexy issues advice needed - 8 years ago
The problem you have is not a problem of the extruder. From the image i can see layers put with lack of precision, the cause can be many things... You need to check the obvious: possible rigidity problem of the bed, carriage and main structure. Check the belt tension too.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines