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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
Hi, sorry to respond only know. Passed one week of vacation out of home and with no time to go online. About 12v vs 24v: in my opinion in make only sense to go with 24v if you will have a big heated bed, otherwise simply go with 12v. 24v to power motors only make sense in building a cnc, the 3d printer do not need so much torque. About the 1.7A motors: I have 3 of theses on my printer (x, y andby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Using Z stop for homing - help - 8 years ago
set the z homming to the min endstop. When homming if the bed goes down instead of up, them simply modify your config file to change the z motor direction.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Why does this design of pulley used less in Corexy - 8 years ago
QuoteKoko76 QuotefilipeCampos PS: you must have 2 belts, all 4 belt end´s must be secured in the carriage. From the image it appears you have only one big belt, and i assumed is a error when you have made the image. If is not a error, them it will simply not work. No, 2 belts are not needed in an H bot design. One big belt is exactly how it works, and there is not an error in the image. correby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Speeds / Config - 8 years ago
With a 32 board you can achieve speed much high that most printer supports mechanically. I pretty sure that most printer do not print at 200mm/s, this speed are normally used only for the travel speed. Printing fast is something everyone do at least once and them them conclude the print quality you get is sh*** and lower the speed to something between 60 to 120mm/s max. Bowden setup and fast priby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Why does this design of pulley used less in Corexy - 8 years ago
First, the image is the design of a hbot setup and not a corexy. The corexy is a "evolution" from the hbot to solve a twist problem the carriage suffer because the belt push from the same side. But If you use a rigid frame and good linear movement you can go with this setup. PS: you must have 2 belts, all 4 belt end´s must be secured in the carriage. From the image it appears you have only oneby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Speeds / Config - 8 years ago
the octoprint over usb will not be cause of any problems, in the past i have used a similar solution with a raspberry pi 1 (512) and never have any trouble with speeds. The lcd consume a lot of computer power to only update the info, this is a well know problem and one of the main reason that most deltas use 32 bit board. In a Cartesian printer like prusa for some reason never have this type probby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Speeds / Config - 8 years ago
there is big probability is the same problem. the problem should be the board you are using is a 8bit and simply can not process fast enough at the speed you try to move the carriage, to solve this you can do: - reduce the max speed - print without the lcd or with a 20x4 - forget marlin and use something more recent, like repetier - upgrade to a 32 bit board what type lcd you are using? fromby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Speeds / Config - 8 years ago
Hi, check the nexts videos: I do not know if is the same "clunk" problem you are trying to describe.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Triple-rod supported bed, 8mm shaft enough or go higher? - 8 years ago
Loved your design, you have put some greats idea where... more questions: what is the size of the metal tube? 20x20? The mema17 motor will have enough force and precision without a reduction? The belt tension is made by the 2 screw on the top, correct? where do you fix theses 2 screws? looks like is missing one printed piece to fix the screws Are you planning to share the file of this bed? whenby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: Is Nema17 1.2A too weak for 3d printing? - 8 years ago
This thread is funny and sad at the same time... "Is Nema17 1.2A too weak for 3d printing?" Why use this motor in the first place? In the corexy the x, y, z motors do not move. simply use mena17 1.5A motors, there are almost the same price. If your making this question because you already have the motors, them try.. They probably work fine, all depends the firmware/steppers configuration you usby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
If you have never print before where some tips: -Is very important to print with the correct temperature, if the temperature is to low the pieces will not be strong enough. Normally i use bq pla and print at 210ºc to get a solid adhesion between layer. But the temperate depends a lot of the type of pla you use. -I have the same opinion was critter42, go with 0.3. print faster and was good enoughby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: [idea] CoreXY "+" - Alternative to "H" arrangement, keeping CoreXY belt - 8 years ago
Well.. you are probably right about the use of carbon fibre, looks like to be a great material to use on the build of a printer. But this is not a new topic? And you call the quadrap a fascinating design. To me is more like "build a printer with what you have at home...", is a big mess.. I my opinion you are going the wrong way, your are trying to fix a problem adding more complexity on the sysby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What's the best placement of EndStops in a CoreXY and are mechanical ones still used by you guys? - 8 years ago
The obvious place for the x endstop is the carriage, but is not the best place. In case of my printed i would remove the x endstops from the carriage and put both or only the min endstop one of the printed x or y motor support. The zero positions will change with this setup. Orther place is to fix the x endstop to one of the front 2020 bar. the other x and z are stationary and do not give troublby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
was Nikel90 indicate, is better to buy this plate instead of the printed one: if you go with the mk8 bowden setup or the dual mk8 direct version, you can buy the next extruder on ebay (they work fine). For the direct mk8 you need to use the printed one.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What's the best placement of EndStops in a CoreXY and are mechanical ones still used by you guys? - 8 years ago
From my experience the best place is to put the endstop is in a NOT MOVING place, this because i have the min/max end stop in the carriage and it was already necessary to solder both endstop cables. The electric cable brakes over time because of the movement of the carriage.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: 2020 Profile slider was a carriage? - 8 years ago
In therm of cost is 30€, is less of a good guide linear rail. But you are probably wright, the precision and reliability will be worse. I was only thinking to use this only because it will allow to have a carriage "ready to go", main problem is to know if the precision can be good enough for a 3d printer?by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: [idea] CoreXY "+" - Alternative to "H" arrangement, keeping CoreXY belt - 8 years ago
To be honest i think this is only a good theoretical exercise, but not make much sense in practical. You can simply take the extra cost of adding the second axis and buy a good guide linear rail, problem solved! This solution is adding way to much complexity to solve a problem that can be easy solved with a good linear movement, normally the simplest solution is the best.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: [idea] CoreXY "+" - Alternative to "H" arrangement, keeping CoreXY belt - 8 years ago
Hi, You are making some difficult/strange questions, i not a mechanical engineer/expert and not sure if i will tell next is correct or not... but from your gimp image the belt have the "normal" corexy setup and you have mixed with some of the idea of the ultimaker design (added a axis one the X). I think this second axis will add more rigidity and not allow the carriage to twist, but this twiby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
@Amoniak Missing; - one mk8 extruder - If you go with a bowdem extrduer you need the pieces that goes on top of the carriage, it will secure the ptfe tube and electric cables - all (x, y and z) the min endstop support. you can print the max endstop latter. - the two rectangle that will secure the M3 screw to adjust the min / max X endstop must be printed in separated. - the top pieces of the Zby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
2020 Profile slider was a carriage? - 8 years ago
Hi, Making this post to check if someone can give me any feedback/review about the next product: video: The idea is to use the slider was the carriage and put a simple 2020 bar for the x axis. I found almost zero information about this slider, i only have the video and the info of the selling page. Before i buy this it will be great to have some feedback only to be sure i not making a big eby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
It will probably by fine, but not with 12mm aluminium rods. I no time the rods will have wear and lose precision. But i think the rods have is days counted, at the moment you can buy on ebay linear guide rails pretty cheap and the difference in cost do not justify to continue with the rods solution. The use of this rail has a big advantage in relation to the rods, you can install them directly oby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
Quoteivo95 220x80x4mm alu plate is 2,67€ @ doldmechatronik. Cut two stripes, drill 4 holes and you have even better support and you saved 8€ if you want to do some cutting/drilling. looks to be a good solution. Quoteivo95BTW do you think that 300x200mm bed size is doable with your design? (12mm rods + 4xSCV12UU holding the bed). I only have experience with a 20x20cm bed and is just work. With thby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
Quoteivo95 You have built a great printer, but I think that it can be done much cheaper. Your basic BOM is 466€. 100 t-nuts 21,41€ - $6 ali/ebay 100 M4x8 14,28 - $6 alie/ebay ------ 25€ savings 4 x cube connector - 14,8€ 8 x Connector plate 20x40 - 10,56€ 3 x Bracket 20x20 B-type slot 6 with screws (10 units) - 24,99€ T-nut heavy duty steel B-Type slot 6 (M5) (8 units) - 2,25€ Inner bracket 20by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
@Amoniak About the choosing of your printer. I know money is a big issue and your are trying to go with a printer that have the best value for the buck. Before building this printer i was too looking for a printer on the cheap side. I decided to build my own because all the model (not the expensive ones) have one big problem to my eyes; the main frame... The main advantage of this model is theby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
Quotecritter42 QuotefilipeCampos 4- in case you go with a cheap board like ramps 1.4, is better to put a external relay and not use the bed direlty connected to the board. the ramps can overheat if you do not use the relay. with a good board there is no need of this relay. you need to check the max Amp the board can have for the bed and if you can avoid the relay, it make a bang bang noise. Dumbby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
hi, still not decided... 1- hand psu, fan cool the board, secure cables, stiffen more the frame and allow to put 4 bottom panel. Overall is pratical, but not vital. 2- i do not remenber, maybe because of the price or tnuts compability 3- because 30A for a 20x20 bed is overkill. 20 or 25 is cheaper and will do the job. note: talking about 12v power supply and not 24v. my printer consume at maxby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 8 years ago
Eclips3D use the same bed components of the ultimaker 2, is a bed system very well tested and with no know problems. I think you are overthinking about the cantilevered bed, for small printer (no more of 30x30) this is not a issue. Is a great printer to build, almost zero printed parts and use good components. I was designed with someone that know is stuff and is a great guy that will help you.by filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: What CoreXY design to choose? - 8 years ago
Amoniak created this tread to have some help about selecting a good printer and not more of 400€. I still think for the money the SmartRapCore is the best option. Is clear to build a good printed you can not go cheap on some parts of the printer. I have the same opinion of the_digital_dentist, in the 3d printing word going cheap most of the time will cost more in the long run. I my point of viewby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
This extruder is really something worth to check, in my case if i could use two of these Titans instead of my mk8 i could remove more of 400gr from the carriage... Quotesimon_smithson There are no mounting holes on the extruder itself, instead you mount via a printed plate sandwiched between the extruder and stepper. On possible solution is to design a top plate (the plate goes on top of the caby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines
Re: G&C Printer - 8 years ago
the new e3d appears to be a very good extruder, and using small motor can be very light, but they are new and way to expensive. i pretty sure in no time the price will drop and start to appear printed version. about the changes... i need the get the dimension off the base and where are the fixing holes to see the best way to install them directly on the carriage. the printer looks great. what iby filipeCampos - CoreXY Machines