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http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY
Re: Need to calibrate my Z axis - 10 years ago
To calibrate z make a mark using a marker pen on your smooth rod where your z carriage is located. Then command it to move by an amount such as 50mm. Measure how far it moved. If it moved 20% too far then reduce z steps per mm by 20% send the printer m92 z(new value). Then do it again check it moves the right amount. Once correct then reflash your firmware. If you have eeprom enabled you can juby DjDemonD - General
Re: Who knows this "auto adjusting hotend" - 10 years ago
I just got one of these, looks quite well made but doesn't seem to come apart, except the nozzle. There is a ptfe tube running all the way down and into the nozzle. It looks like it would thread onto an e3d throat and has a removable bowden coupler. It does appear the fins are some type of passive hot end cooler. I do not know how it senses nozzle contact it has wires for a heater, a thermistorby DjDemonD - General
Re: It's just too cold! - 10 years ago
QuoteJamesK That's very cool! No, wait, I mean it looks very warm. I'd be just a little bit worried about a radiant heat element in there, it may tend to produce hot spots on anything that gets close. I'd guess that a small oil filled convection element would be a better choice, although a quick search on ebay completely failed to find anything suitable Yeah well this is what I'm testing now,by DjDemonD - Printing
Re: It's just too cold! - 10 years ago
Built a heated enclosure photos enclosed, just a bit of preliminary testing going on now. Decided on a 3 sided MDF box with lots of insulation foil, the left side of the enclosure is just foil bubble wrap so I didn't have to worry about catching any cables and to allow my PSU cables to enter at the back. For heating have cannibalized a 400w 1 bar electric heater which is insulated from the MDF byby DjDemonD - Printing
ABL in Rich Cattell's Marlin versus Marlin RC 1.1 - 10 years ago
I am not the only forum member to express an interest in having the same auto bed levelling/tramming/compensation method as used in Rich Cattell's marlin for Deltas applied to cartesian machines. By this I mean rather than implement a plane of best fit based on 3-9 probing points why not probe the bed in 25 places and generate a full height compensation grid and then apply this to z coordinates dby DjDemonD - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: New print surface material? - 10 years ago
My experience so far has been good but the taping of this material generates unevenness, certainly with the tape I am using (3m carpet tape). Might there be any plans to supply it professionally bonded to an aluminium backing, in such a way that it is rolled to ensure it is flat. This could then easily be screwed or clipped to the printer?by DjDemonD - General
Re: pellet extruder?? - 10 years ago
How about essentially a pellet fed filament-extruder i.e. a filament maker being fed pellets outside of the printer and the filament generated being fed to the printer and extruded in the normal way. You might conceive of a system which requests to slow down the printer if the pellet based filament maker is struggling to produce the filament fast enough. Yeah you could buy a filament extruder aby DjDemonD - General
Re: ljc18a3-h-z/bx - 10 years ago
You can specify either 3 point levelling which is enough assuming your bed is flat. Or you can specify 4 points or 9 points. This is the auto levelling section from my config. I've highlighted the area in red where you set the probing points so set it to 2 if you want 4 points probed i.e. a 2x2 grid or 3 if you want 9 points probed a 3x3 grid. comment this out if you prefer a 3 point probing sby DjDemonD - General
Re: Äuto bed leveling only once in a while - 10 years ago
Interesting that you say it is quite inconsistent, I've noticed that too, and have been wondering if it is mechanical. I too can get very good reproducibility from my probe. I always assumed it because my i3's bed is relatively quite a wobbly structure. Be interested to hear if you get anywhere with solving this. Perhaps a later version of Marlin?by DjDemonD - General
Re: Slic3r Print Settings - Where's the guide? - 10 years ago
Yeah I tried slic3r initially got fairly confused then tried cura a few times but was not completely impressed with the results and went back to slic3r. Once you've got a handle on what each setting does, be prepared to work through several kg's of filament, you'll be much more likely to get great results. Its a very long and at times depressingly steep and treacherous learning curve but very rby DjDemonD - Printing
Re: It's just too cold! - 10 years ago
It is too cold to print, I can't get anything to stick, and when I turned on my printer it was showing mintemp error as it was below 5 deg C, I had to warm up the heat bed with my hands before I could reset it and turn on the heater. Oh well. Heated enclosure for me too I think.by DjDemonD - Printing
Re: Marlin 1.1 RC2 Auto Calibration help - 10 years ago
Consider switching to Rich Cattells marlin and then you can use g30 A to auto calibrate. Its quite good and saves a lot of messing about. If it fails to resolve a solution then you have something loose/bent/poor probe reproducibility etc... Using this I get excellent results which I wasn't getting from manually calibrating. If you are not sure if g29 makes a difference put something like a tby DjDemonD - Delta Machines
Re: Is a dual support Z on the diagonal corners of bed a bad idea? - 10 years ago
I'd be concerned that the pitch of a drill bit would require quite a lot of torque to lift the bed unless it is very light. Also there will be quite a lot of friction and the sharp edges of the drill bit will grind into whatever it is they are engaged with. Whilst a lead screw is £15 this seems reasonable to get decent z precision even if you do need 3.by DjDemonD - General
Re: Best way to set Z-axis zero position? - 10 years ago
You can enter that slic3r, z offset -0.4mm or thereabouts depending on your bed adhesion. Other slicers are available. If you have a z probe then you set the probe, then autolevel, then measure the clearance at the nozzle and either change your configuration.h depending on the probe z offset or make the change in slic3r. Your configuration needs to allow positioning the nozzle below z=0 which mby DjDemonD - General
Re: print quality on flat vs taller objects - 10 years ago
Also try a sacrificial tower alongside the object you're printing to allow the layers to cool. And print slowly on small layers ie layers that only take a short time to print.by DjDemonD - General
Re: ljc18a3-h-z/bx - 10 years ago
Check your sensor by connecting + and - to 12v and 0v. If it is a pnp sensor place volt meter on 0v and signal. The signal should be 12v when the sensor is open then change to 0v when it comes near an object. This is normally closed (NC). You need to supply the printer with a 5v signal (on ramps at least) so use a voltage regulator to achieve this. Voltage dividers ie. Resistors are not as reby DjDemonD - General
Re: Who knows this "auto adjusting hotend" - 10 years ago
I might have a go at a hinged x carriage with switch/sensor.by DjDemonD - General
Re: smart auto-calibration feedback loop? - 10 years ago
Well all I can do is tell you my experience. I have a think3dprint3d kossel mini the version which uses ramps rather than due. You can print across the whole bed but the circular shape is a little limiting on a Kossel Mini even with my 200mm wide bed as usually I print more square parts. But for anything small, or circular or tall it is very suitable. It is faster than a cartesian printer even wby DjDemonD - General
Re: Who knows this "auto adjusting hotend" - 10 years ago
I've ordered one of these so I'll see how it works in 4 weeks time or so. Just thinking though has anyone tried to design say an x carriage mount for an i3 for example with a lightly sprung hinge and a microswitch in it which would do the same thing but would not require a special hot end? This would achieve effectively a nozzle based probe working on bed contact, so no expensive sensors, no servby DjDemonD - General
Coincidence? - 10 years ago
I've two printers and have had 3 blocked hot ends in the last 2 days. My printers are out in a workshop (shed) and its cold now around 7 deg C. Are these things related? One printer is setup for abs and one for pla.by DjDemonD - Printing
Re: Who knows this "auto adjusting hotend" - 10 years ago
I've never used one but would love to try it on my i3, I'm very tempted to order one. I have a Kossel Mini with fsrs and an i3 with offset capacitative sensor and the difference in ease of use, accuracy etc... is significant, the kossel with effectively nozzle based probing just seems like a so much neater solution. I was thinking just the other day why not have a sensor in the hot end! This wby DjDemonD - General
Re: Auto leveling, Endstop triggers properly, Z won't home - 10 years ago
Where are your settings for probe offset from nozzle? It might not be the problem but the firmware needs to know this in order to move the probe to bed centre to home z- otherwise it might try to move the probe out of the bed area and result in a head crash as there's no bed under the sensor to detect.by DjDemonD - General
Re: Z Height Setting - 10 years ago
julianh72 - I still havent found the time to go print a cube and see what it says yet but I will. DC42 - I use feeler gauges too. After changing something I autolevel, then measure the nozzle height above the bed centre, then add 0.1mm and then either set this as z-offset in slic3r or flash it as probe z-offset in Marlin. I print a cube and if I get really nice 1st layer adhesion use this settingby DjDemonD - General
Re: How to split large wheel that doesn't fit the bed? - 10 years ago
Can be but currently isn't an option available anyone know of a slicer that can automatically do multipart prints? Add a little superglue to the joints and you'd have a reasonable prototype large object or art object.by DjDemonD - General
Re: How to split large wheel that doesn't fit the bed? - 10 years ago
It's a shame none of the free slicers have an option to automatically join parts which are larger than the print volume available. I appreciate this might not always work for load bearing parts like gears but it would make printing large objects easy as designing joints isn't.by DjDemonD - General
Re: RE BED SHAPE - 10 years ago
This may not be possible with your setup, but it might be easiest to position one corner of your heated bed at x0,y0 then define it as square and 200x200. Otherwise you'll have to manually position objects as you mentioned above. In order to use a smaller square bed on top of a larger square one you'd need to define some sort of offset I'm not sure how to do that.by DjDemonD - General
Re: Z Height Setting - 10 years ago
DC42 okay so why do we need to add the thickness of a piece of paper offset to the nozzle either physically or electronically when we print. Simono71 would be right we should put the clean nozzle on the bed, call this z=0 then ask for a 0.25mm first layer, the z axis lifts 0.25mm and it begins to print.by DjDemonD - General
Re: Z Height Setting - 10 years ago
I know for certain that for example when I print a 2x2x1 cm cube it is not usually showing z=10 on the LCD when it finishes, despite this the part is 10mm thick (+/-0.05).by DjDemonD - General
Re: Z Height Setting - 10 years ago
When I auto calibrated and auto levelled my kossel, I asked it to print the obligatory 2x2x1cm cube and it was way too tight /squashed/nothing coming out with z offset in slic3r set to 0. So I add 0.1mm and print again, still a little too squashed, so I add 0.15 and print again and its perfect. I see what you mean, and it makes sense. I might be wrong here but I think if you do not set a z offsby DjDemonD - General
Re: steps/mm dilemma: is more than 0.1mm/microstep necessary? - 10 years ago
There has to be an element of trial and error here. I went from having m5 threaded rods moving my z axis on my i3 rework to acme leadscrews and my steps per mm went from 4000 to 400. I was concerned I would have insufficient torque to turn the screws and overcome friction so tried in vain to change from 1/16 microstepping down to 1/8 and 1/4 etc... but I could not get it to work. So I went back tby DjDemonD - General