Quotebme I like to test things. When something works I have difficult to change it. Ramps 1.4, Atmega2560 or DRV8825 allways works in my case. No problem as you described. I can have up 300 mm/sec speed, high acceleration and everithing with 32 micro stepping. Tell me advantages with your own or others motherboards? What can you do more then me with my electronic? It is just the idea of gettingby sigxcpu - Reprappers
If you printed PLA before try a "cold pull". It helped me on non-lite v6by sigxcpu - Printing
Is the "rugged" just a hobby of yours or you have a valid point in investing ~100$ in the microcontroller board and get the same shitty RAMPS + drivers, instead of putting those money against a good 32-bit embedded board? As far as my understanding goes, in the MEGA+RAMPS+stepper drivers, the weak parts are: undercooled "stepsticks" then RAMPS polyfuses and, last, the ATMega 2560 processing poweby sigxcpu - Reprappers
These are nice parts to me (except the perfectly aligned vibration on the motor mount perimeter which I'm actually chasing ).by sigxcpu - Reprappers
Converting P3 Steel to MGN12 is the 2nd and optional project. The linear guides were primarily acquired for a new printer. I want to do a CoreXY. Today I've made the frame (2020) and learned some stuff: do not force the tap if it doesn't want to go. Always use oil if you want to tap ~25mm depth. After snapping 2 taps in one hole, did 34 M5 threads @25mm with a single tap. I'm pretty proud of myseby sigxcpu - Reprappers
70mm/sec everywhere in slic3r, except 20mm/sec small gaps. 1000 print acceleration, 1500 travel acceleration, 150mm/sec travel speedby sigxcpu - Reprappers
I'm using 8mm leadscrew with 8mm lead and 2mm pitch, so not far off. You design your seats no big deal. Of course, if this is not a Prusa like thing, maybe it doesn't apply. But decoupling the Z screws from the X axis was the best improvement I've done to my printer, considering 8mm screws and 8mm "guiding" rod.by sigxcpu - Printing
Simple solution: get rid of the nut and its holder, create two "seats" for your X axis that "crimp" the Z rods and hold the Z nut. Put your X axis on these seats. The screw play in XY plane will have almost no effect (if they are really bent, their pitch will not be constant) Example:by sigxcpu - Printing
To compare, we also need to know the speed settings.by sigxcpu - Reprappers
I'm using a MKS BASE board with "hard-coded" A4982 drivers at 1/16 for all outputs (X,Y,Z,E0,E1) so yes, I'm microstepping it. Now I've got a Titan from E3D, so I've lowered the extruder motor current and it seems better. I'll try to do the same Kossel part again, using the same filament and see if I get improvements. A 20x20x10mm cube looks a bit better with the Titan and dampers on both X and Yby sigxcpu - Reprappers
The idea was not to hide defects. I took the picture with the best angle and lights that show the issue. I want to understand the source and, if possible, fix it. When I touch my frame, I can feel the big vibrations that seem to translate to the head. The steel frame is fine for big forces, but it feels like a big speaker. I have 6 damping legs under the printer, even added motors dampers and notby sigxcpu - Reprappers
I've attached another part that shows the patterns. ref second image: isn't that some kind of Arduino 2560?by sigxcpu - Reprappers
Please ignore the following: - bad initial Z (had some changes before printing this test and didn't bother to adjust, I did baby stepping during brim) - part detached during print, so I've stopped the job (the top is moved) The print speed was ~60mm/sec. What we can see here is: - oscillations on corners, which I understand because everything is springy (bed, bearings, rods, printed carriage).by sigxcpu - Reprappers
I'm contemplating the idea of doing a CoreXY using MGN12 rails (not really contemplating, few things left to come before I start building it) and after that converting my P3 steel to MGN12. One of the reasons for linear guides is to get rid of patterns on the surface. Now, seeing your printed parts I'm not that happy anymore. All of them have patterns, worse then what I get with LM8UU & 8mmby sigxcpu - Reprappers
Did you try this? I've had your issue once and I was amazed about the junk I've pulled out. Now I do this every few days, especially when switching from PLA to higher temp filaments.by sigxcpu - General
If you have 12V at the supply under load and 10.2V at the heatbed terminals you have your answer: - 12V measured at electronics input: too thin heatbed wires. - 12V measured at supply terminals: to thin main power wires and maybe too thin bed wiresby sigxcpu - General
I've bought some PET-G filament from motedis.com and it is done by Devil Design. The issue (?) I have is that the boxes are marked as "ABS-T", not "PET-G". The thing smells like hot PET (soda bottles), wants a fan during printing and behaves differently than I'm used to with ABS, so I think it is PET. The colors matched what I've ordered (transparent green/blue/yellow). Is anyone having experieby sigxcpu - Printing
Just got today my first batch of PET from motedis (Devil Design is the supplier) and quickly printed some pets (sorry ) for my son. It worked perfectly on the first try (250 hotend, 100 bed). Not important, it was the blue translucent flavor.by sigxcpu - General
QuoteMutley3D Quotesigxcpu Maybe odd question: any chance to unglue the PrintBite from the glass bed? I want to transfer it on the aluminium hotbed, if possible (yes, I've made a mistake). Dont think you have made a mistake. On glass it should be fine. Do you easily reach temp? if so, I maybe wouldnt worry. Glass is 210x210x3mm, so it adds a bit of weight to the already heavy aluminium heatbedby sigxcpu - General
Maybe odd question: any chance to unglue the PrintBite from the glass bed? I want to transfer it on the aluminium hotbed, if possible (yes, I've made a mistake).by sigxcpu - General
I always use Isopropyl alcohol because it is a degreaser. The plastic remnants are easily removed mechanically and my fingers marks with alcohol. Same was used for PEI without any issues. One time I had to use cleaners because I was oiling the mechanics and touched the PEI surface with them. My real problem is not the first layer but the upper layers delamination because of the stupid filamentby sigxcpu - General
So, few days with PrintBite (had PEI sheet before). Same setup as PEI (220-240 deg. ABS, 100 deg. bed), works as PEI with one improvement: very easy to remove the parts after printing is done. My "100 deg bed" is around 85-87 real (read with a thermal imager) because of the 3mm glass between aluminium hotbed and PrintBite. Didn't have the guts to glue it to the bed directly The other big advanby sigxcpu - General
Do you have something against brim?by sigxcpu - Printing
@peonking: your linear bearings or bushings are most likely binding. I've had this with cheap IGUS bushings. If your axes are not near perfectly parallel or your carriage is not aligned properly to the axes there will be some friction/stopping. This translates to abrupt stop (when motors don't have torque, on deceleration) and a slow start on acceleration. This is the main cause of backlash in Prby sigxcpu - Printing
When you see the shake it is moving to another perimeter. That is the seam and it looks like overextrusion or too high acceleration (or Vxy jerk?)by sigxcpu - Printing
Lower the blow of the fan a little bit if it happens after the first layer and you have your slicer configured to start the fan on layer 2.by sigxcpu - Printing