Injection molding gus would be complicated due to the herringbone gears and all the nooks and crannies of the gears, it's really tailored to take advantage of additive manufacturing. As for belts, I considered it briefly but routing the belts is a bit difficult I think. The belts need to terminate around the same radius pulley as they leave from, and this will need to be offset from the departureby Trakyan - General New Machines Topics
Yep, I've read through just about every bit of material I could find on the simpson online a couple dozen times haha I love this printer design. The most recent revision I've seen is jfriessen's one on conceptforge. I had concerns about string walking too, so one of the changes I decided I'd do in my revision is to use large pulleys to eliminate or at least minimize string walking. Also, I'd loby Trakyan - General New Machines Topics
You can invert the Y axis stepper direction in firmware, or move the limit switch (the second one could result in mirrored prints if the limit switch is actually where it should be). The easiest option IF your motors have connectors that can be rotated 180 degrees is to just unplug the y axis, spin it 180 degress and plug it back in, this should change the direction it moves in.by Trakyan - Reprappers
The size of the gears isn't related to the size of the teeth, I think the tooth size in the original was chosen so the teeth weren't super small as to cause printing issues. I think the tooth size is arbitrary and just limited to how small you can print them, on my version, you can specify a number of teeth you want and it'll calculate the size from there. The size of the gear is related to how mby Trakyan - General
It will be a herringbone gear, and backlash wont be an issue as the gears are just for registration as the arms roll along each other sort of like cams, the gears themselves dont drive or transfer any motion. They basically serve as rolling cams and the gear teeth are just there to make sure they move symetrically. Besides, the gears are lashed together with a tensioned block and tackle which shoby Trakyan - General
My issue isn't with the gears meshing, it was whether a gear split in half and then assembled together with some bolts and spacers would have good enough alignment. Belt isn't really made to mesh with itself like a gear, but even if it was this doesn't address the alignment issue. Anyways, since I'm relying on the printer to print a round backing for the belt, I might as well rely on it to prinby Trakyan - General
Sorry I couldn't be of much help, I've been really busy (and continue to be until Wednesday)by Trakyan - General
I recall a video done by Tom saying the printrbots he used had a capacitive sensor. And you're right, to be honest I had a quick look for some sources when I was writing up my last post and couldn't find much if any information beyond "we have bed leveling". You could try some video interviews/reviews since they often mention exactly what type of sensor the machine uses. Tom in particular usuallby Trakyan - General
It prints, if what you're implying is that it doesn't. There are several other people who have made videos of the original design printing, and another person's revision. I'm fully intend to build a prototype, and will post pictures/videos/files when I get one working. I need a custom cut frame and bed for my prototype though so I'll be building a CNC to cut it first. I'm still working on compby Trakyan - General
The original design worked, and was printed. I'm still working on my design, I keep getting bogged down in small features, once it's done I will print it and demonstrate it.by Trakyan - General
Well, to be honest I can't think of another commercially available piezo sensor kit. I haven't heard of too many hobby hacks using one either, so it's definitely uncommon from my point of view. That being said, I quite like it since it's a sensor with zero XY offset from the nozzle and doesn't require tuning to get it to trigger at the proper z height. I can't think of a big name printer that useby Trakyan - General
It's more like a polar printer with a moving arm instead of printbed. Anyways, usual problems with SCARA (or systems that don't use linear math; scara, delta, polar) are the inconsistent speed and resolution across the print volume. Other problems include a lack of rigidity. Swinging a large cantilever around causes a fair bit of ringing. I'm not entirely sure why you like the printerbot or troby Trakyan - Reprappers
That's like saying just because you nicked your finger you might as well cut it off. The printed gears have been proven to work, the question is how much slop can you introduce before it becomes too much.by Trakyan - General
Out of curiosity, what is the drivng force behind trying to develop printer independant gcode? Most people like to tweak things like speeds, shells, infill etc from print to print. Either for time or strength requirements. Another thing you'd want to know is print volume size, if the printer can physically print the object, but maybe I'm missing the point of what you're asking. I personally woulby Trakyan - General
In my redesign of the gus simpson ive rerouted the cables along the outside to make stringing easier and let it print flat without support. However, this combined with the addition of a couple of pulleys where the shoulder meets the arm have resulted in ridiculously wide shoulders with rather narrow (flimsy) arms. I cant seem to find a solution to this with my current design and have started toby Trakyan - General
The OP mentioned a clicking, this could also point to a stepper losing steps. Are the layer shifts big, like a couple of mm? Or just small ridges? Since this is the y axis of an i3, I'm inclined to think you need to turn down jerk and acceleration. Just thinking about it now, a belt skipping teeth isn't exactly what I'd call a click, but a stepper skipping steps is. Just another thing worth checby Trakyan - General
What's pointing you towards a belt needing replacement? It's probably more likely you need to tension your belt or adjust acceleration or jerk.by Trakyan - General
Try lowering acceleration as well as jerk. Otherwise, check if the rails move smoothly etc.by Trakyan - Reprappers
The picture was mostly to illustrate how you could mount separate pulleys on the same shaft to get your gear reduction. And there are ways to create more or less that motion system/gantry with square rods. I don't recommend it for cost's sake, since it needs 6 rails as opposed to 3 for an H type gantry. Also, drivers are rated to '2A', but I wouldn't recommend running them that hot, especially thby Trakyan - General
QuoteDon McLeanTrakyan, idlers typically have a bearing in them, or bushing, or something to help them spin. So no, I could just bolt them in place, perhaps with the help of a few spacers. At least that is my understanding. They are not the same thing. Sorry, my bad (wrong terminology/poor explanation). Not an idler pulley, just regular old pulley with a set screw. You'll be mounting your pulby Trakyan - General
So basically make a heater block+nozzle in one? Downsides are you can't change nozzles and cleaning or unclogging them becomes much harder. You'd also probably run into a few machining challenges. There could be advantages, care to throw a few into the ring?by Trakyan - General
I'm personally waiting for the Mk3 clone mainboards haha. Been wanting a (cheap) board with TMC2130 stepper drivers integrated onto the board. Prusa have introduced some nice new features. They've also introduced some that I think shouldn't need to be there (auto squaring), and personally the mendel motion platform is not my favourite. I think the stallguard capabilities of the TMC2130 opens up aby Trakyan - General
Maybe put some dampeners on the ends of the solenoids? Dunno, I might try the project for myself when I'm not so broke.by Trakyan - Reprappers
Fair enough, so the dual carriages take up a significant portion in your case. I was just saying as the print volume gets bigger, the lost area lost gets less significant. to As for the idlers, you'll need a shaft to mount your combined idler anyway wont you? I don't see why it's any more complicated to mount two separate idlers next to each other on the shaft.by Trakyan - General
try heating/cooling the mating parts, you'll get a pressfit but wont really be able to tweak it.by Trakyan - Mechanics
Thanks for the source. Quite the price hike over other heated beds but might be worth it.by Trakyan - Reprappers
Any ideas what drivers your printer is using? DRVs could explain the issues with low accelerations.by Trakyan - General
I've seen those, but I'd like to avoid mains power for a couple of reasons. Unfortunately most of the small ones seem to run off mains, the smallest one that runs off 12 volt I've seen is 160mm and 180mm for the smallest 24v. The coffee warmers (or at least I assume that's what they were, they just said warmers/heaters) I saw on aliexpress sat at around 8 watts. Maybe I'm using the wrong keywoby Trakyan - Reprappers
For the radial engine, and this is just a suggestion, why not try solenoids? they behave a bit more like pistons and might be easier to control. To me it's also a bit cooler since it's converting reciprocating motion to rotary and not rotary->linear/reciprocating->rotary which personally feels a bit redundant (I know this isn't meant to serve some grand purpose, it just seems to bug me on aby Trakyan - Reprappers